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How to 60 ft?

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Dewey

Resident Smartass
Joined
Feb 18, 2005
Messages
493
My car ran fairly well at BPG Columbus considering the heat and a leaky driver's header. If I could get this thing to 60 ft I'd be thrilled with it. I have a Vig. 3200 non L/U conv. but anything over 3-5 psi of boost and 2600 rpm and the tires start spinning. How can I load up this convertor and leave harder? Here's the best pass:

R/T... .016
60'... 2.101
330... 5.504
1/8... 8.330
MPH... 86.71
1000... 10.787
1/4... 12.878
MPH... 108.38
 
275/60/15 Nitto DRs. Car just felt limp off the line. No wheelspin that I could tell.
 
Sounds like the converter isn't actually a 3200 stall. You should be at 0psi boost at 3200 rpm if it is. Have you done any other suspension work? Boxed control arms etc?
 
Exhaust leaks and a rich a/f on launch will kill the 60'.
 
My rear suspension has Metco lowers, cargo coils, and a massive sway bar. All this was to eliminate a bad wheel hop issue. The exhaust leaks are there but not enough, I believe, to make it this bad. I still had no trouble getting 20+ psi down the track. It mostly felt like the motor was just overpowering the brakes. I had the pedal buried and still couldn't hold it. I can't tell what the a/f ratio is on launch. I just have a scanmaster but my plugs always look super clean. I can't imagine being too rich. My static FP is set at 37 Vac. off and I only have 37.5 lb. injectors.
 
My rear suspension has Metco lowers, cargo coils, and a massive sway bar. All this was to eliminate a bad wheel hop issue. The exhaust leaks are there but not enough, I believe, to make it this bad. I still had no trouble getting 20+ psi down the track. It mostly felt like the motor was just overpowering the brakes. I had the pedal buried and still couldn't hold it. I can't tell what the a/f ratio is on launch. I just have a scanmaster but my plugs always look super clean. I can't imagine being too rich. My static FP is set at 37 Vac. off and I only have 37.5 lb. injectors.
Not holding boost on the line is a big problem. Try some softer shoes and make sure the drums arent glazed on the inside. Use a line lock to do burnouts with. The drum brakes work better when they are cool. Get a Turbotweak chip and pull fuel in 1st. I usually pull 5%. Fix all the exhaust leaks. Even small ones are a problem. If you can notice them they are bad enough to fix. Get a wideband dataloggger and watch the a/f on spoolup and throughout the run. If its fat down low and you cant get it into adjustment without leaning out the rest too much Eric can pull fuel out of the base program and lean out the cells that are too rich. It will really wake up the car.
 
First get someone to watch the car from the side as you brake torque up some boost after a burnout. Keep going up until either the tires spin or the car moves, and have him tell you which and make sure the fronts are sliding not rolling. If the fronts roll you need to improve them as well as the rears. You need to be able to hold at least 6 psi on the brakes for most turbos to launch hard, and 10 is common. Pull the rear drums and make sure the shoes are contacting the drums fully. If they are new they may not have worn in yet and may be only touching on the ends or maybe the middles. If they are glazed replace them. You can buy two sets and run 4 long shoes but some people have issues with easy wheel lockup so drive carefully until you know how they act. Get the S10 wheel cylinders (early 80's S10 truck with manual brakes), and again watch for early lockup. Bleed the brakes well and adjust the rears fairly tight, then try again :-).
 
First fix the exhaust leaks.:biggrin:


Ditto, you need to fix any leaks pre turbo
what may seem like just a small leak or maybe you see only a tiny crack but that grows bigtime with heat when under boost .

spinning tires at 2600 i could see if you havent adressed the rear brakes but 3-5psi at 2600 is not right for your converter , what are you using for rpm?
 
Plugs are "really clean". Does that mean as in "nice and white"?? If so it's likely lean.
Setting the Fp, line off to 37, is leaving the injectors at less than the 37.5 you say they are. [most are rated at 3 bars, 43.5PSI]
Actual flow is now 34.6#/hr.
Easy to calculate:
Divide old fp by new fp. Take the sq root of that, and then times the old flow rate.
As mentioned, get the leaks stopped.
Learn to read the plugs.
Here's a place to start:
sparkplugreading
 
I knew the brakes were part of the problem. I'll be tearing into them next. They're new and stock. When I say "clean" plugs, I mean they look pretty much ideal. A light tan color and no oil or carbon fouling. I have a TT chip and a set of 009 injectors but all that is packaged with my alky kit i haven't installed yet. I plan on sending my driver's header off to Jack Cotton and letting him seal it up. I've welded it up once already. I'm reading my rpm with an Auto Meter tach so it should be fairly accurate.
Thanx for all the input guys. If I can get this straightened out, once I add alky I should be solidly into the 11s....:cool:

Chuck: The reason I backed off the static FP is becuse this is the only fuel adjustment I have and the O2s were reading high on my scanmaster. At this pressure the O2s hang typically between 750 and 800.
 
:

Chuck: The reason I backed off the static FP is becuse this is the only fuel adjustment I have and the O2s were reading high on my scanmaster. At this pressure the O2s hang typically between 750 and 800.

Get a Turbo Tweak chip asap!
 
Looks like that one is covered:rolleyes:

Dewey, what is your current combo??

Do not pass go, do not collect $200:rolleyes: . Get the TT chip and alky installed and report back.
 
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