How to repair turbo exhaust housing bolt threads??

[bison]

The machine shop & engine shop in my town are telling me stainless is better for heat? i had a 5grade break off in the housing thats why i have this issue going on.. So when everyones telling u something diffrent what do u do lol

Use stainless after you put in thread inserts

 

[buickGN3:16]

thats conformation enuf for me, thanks bison!

 

[turbo89]

The machine shop & engine shop in my town are telling me stainless is better for heat? i had a 5grade break off in the housing thats why i have this issue going on.. So when evryones telling u something diffrent what do u do lol

I will leave you with this... you can do as you like...

I am sure the machine shop and engine shop DONT DEAL with TURBOS on regular basis but its upto you.. heat cycle a stainless bolt and it will actually shear from the movement.. STAINLESS moves ALOT more than regular steel...

This is exactly why you wouldnt use stainless on header bolts or anything that heat cycles... turbine housings included... but do as you like

 

[coach]

The machine shop & engine shop in my town are telling me stainless is better for heat? i had a 5grade break off in the housing thats why i have this issue going on.. So when evryones telling u something diffrent what do u do lol

You had a grade 5 BOLT break off...the tension is focused differently. The stud is being pulled on, not twisted. Stainless is soft...it may loosen more often. I would double lockwasher it. I used grade 8 set screws and steel lockwashers and the 12 point nuts.

 

[buickGN3:16]

my plan is to use a very little blue locktite just to ensure no movement & i have lockwashers ready to go with the stainless nuts as well.

 

[turbo89]

my plan is to use a very little blue locktite just to ensure no movement & i have lockwashers ready to go with the stainless nuts as well.

Don't bother with blue Loctite... under that heat .. its useless..

make sure if you do decide to use stainless.. MAKE SURE .. there is plenty of oversize in the bolt holes on the flange.. otherwise you will be very sorry

 

[coach]

my plan is to use a very little blue locktite just to ensure no movement & i have lockwashers ready to go with the stainless nuts as well.

Your thinking like its a bolt. The stud isn't going to move. The stud will grow and shrink...then the nut will loosen. The stud only needs to be twisted in until it bottoms out...then back it off just a bit. The stud needs to be able to align itself, or move, if the down pipe twists a little.

 

[buickGN3:16]

its plenty room the studs i made are 5/16" dia & my dp flange holes are 7/16" or 1/2" i think.. i guess if the stainless studs arent the best choice ill find out eventually. & yes coach i did break a 5grade bolt off so i get what your sayin with the stud being pulled not turned just hope my choice works out if not ill go a diff route! Live & learn lol

 

[buickGN3:16]

studs complete

 

[buickGN3:16]

no likes? damn fella's

 

[StageII86]

Great looking setup.

Just had 2 snap on the stock turbo of my new "stock" car this last weekend...no amount of heat, Pb blaster, Easyouts, or anything else was going to get them out. So I drilled and helicoiled. Did it all on the car and it all worked out great . Have some grade 5 bolts in temporarily but going to grab some better hardware at pep boys this week.