You can type here any text you want

hp on dyno ? how fast can she go 1/4 ?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

66P

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Messages
51
Hi guys and girls . Maybe some of you have or had this combo that i have right now . And have a ball park what she can do on the track and dyno ;) on pump gas and lots of alky. Not afraid to turn her up past 25 pounds:eek:here is my build:​
stroked 109​
k1 rods​
rjc girdle and crank scraper​
head studs​
champion iron heads​
cometic head gaskets​
1-65 harland roller rockers​
comp roller 212-212​
70 m throttle body larger plenum​
ported intake​
3" front mount intercooler​
ta headers​
3" down pipe​
tnetics 66-p-bb-63 turbo​
turbo tweak chip​
wide band gauge knock gauge direct scan data​
bhj balancer sfi flexplate​
w 340 fuil pump alky control dual nozzel m10 m15​
ls1 maf​
6 point roll cage​
TH200R4 stage 3 trans brake, ptc 9.5 converter​
trans shield​
3" aluminum empire drive shaft , 9" pinion yoke, eaton 30 spline posi​
moser axles, moser c-clip eliminators, ta rear cover​
ATR rear sway bar, 3"down lake wood rear bars , adjustable uppers, air bags right left​
MT 28x10.5 slicks:rolleyes: sorry for the long post guys​
 
Depending on which 66 you have and how much the wastegate bypasses you could make in the high 580's on a dynojet. With the wastegate wired closed you could make a little over 600. If it's the larger compressor cover version (which seems less common lately) it will make more power if run hard. What I've found is that that old cast 66 compressor doesnt like the small diffuser/nozzle area the smaller cover has and it will choke flow the compressor and increase the drive pressure required a lot which causes boost drop off as rpm climbs. If it has the larger housing this is less of a problem and will go to 650whp with a strong tune. The larger cover has 8 bolts and the smaller has 6. The inlet and outlet are the same on both. If attempting to get the most out of it I'd be sure you have at least 140 lbs on the seat with your springs. It should peak around 5100 and start to fall off at 5500 if you have the wastegate 100% closed. You might see a short spike when wired closed but the compressor won't be able to keep up with the engines mass efficiency once rpm starts climbing.
 
bison thanks for the fast reply ! im going out to my shop and see how many bolts the cover has? how much boost do you think on that 600
 
I had identicle combo 3 - 4 weeks ago and it did 610hp and ran 10.84 but could have done better. This was with a Precision 45a and factory ecm.
 
Bison, it only has 6 bolts. Can i convert it over to the other cover, or have someone do it, and how much would that cost? And would it be slower spooling it on the street?
 
66P said:
Bison, it only has 6 bolts. Can i convert it over to the other cover, or have someone do it, and how much would that cost? And would it be slower spooling it on the street?

if you find someone (maybe Bison) to remove the wheel and change the backing plate, i have a BNIB, 66mm BIG cover with anti-surge ports. it just depends how old your turbo is. i bought for mine only to find out my cast wheel was obsolete and they had a newer designed cast 66

aaron
 
66P said:
Bison, it only has 6 bolts. Can i convert it over to the other cover, or have someone do it, and how much would that cost? And would it be slower spooling it on the street?

It wouldn't be cost effective to do it. The cover and backplate, labor, shipping would likely be $400-500. It's cheaper to sell and buy another turbo. Theres no point in changing it unless you think you need more than 580whp. I've got a 62 billet that will support more than that turbo and spool considerably faster and is a direct replacement if interested but not going to see much below 580whp.
 
Royal-T-Ltd said:
if you find someone (maybe Bison) to remove the wheel and change the backing plate, i have a BNIB, 66mm BIG cover with anti-surge ports. it just depends how old your turbo is. i bought for mine only to find out my cast wheel was obsolete and they had a newer designed cast 66

aaron

It would need to be a t-netics 66. The Garrett has a smaller exducer and uses a different back plate than a Garrett. I'm contemplating having some drop in billets made for the cast 66 t-netics since there are so many out there. The
Garrett wheel is easier to upgrade to a 67 billet because the backplate can be retained and the cover recontoured. Little to be gained over the cast 67 with a p trim though. If it was an hpq/gtq there is quite a bit more power with a billet but it takes a lot of engine to take advantage of it.
 
It would need to be a t-netics 66. The Garrett has a smaller exducer and uses a different back plate than a Garrett. I'm contemplating having some drop in billets made for the cast 66 t-netics since there are so many out there. The
Garrett wheel is easier to upgrade to a 67 billet because the backplate can be retained and the cover recontoured. Little to be gained over the cast 67 with a p trim though. If it was an hpq/gtq there is quite a bit more power with a billet but it takes a lot of engine to take advantage of it.

Brian, it is a Turbonetics Cover that i was trying to replace my old 66 T Cover with.....
i will post photos when i get off work.
if his is the "newer" cast 66 wheel it should fit [with a backing plate change]

aaron
 
Brian, it is a Turbonetics Cover that i was trying to replace my old 66 T Cover with.....
i will post photos when i get off work.
if his is the "newer" cast 66 wheel it should fit [with a backing plate change]

aaron

T and S cvr.jpg
 

The other side is the important side. Post a pic of it from that side so we can compare the diffusers. Hold a ruler or tape measure across the diffuser
 
The other side is the important side. Post a pic of it from that side so we can compare the diffusers. Hold a ruler or tape measure across the diffuser

PN 21388-1 for a HP-66 compressor wheel

PN 21388-1 HP-66.jpg
 
Back
Top