HUGE!! TURBO no motor needed

[serpent99]

I don't know if I'm out of line here but I hear there's some people here with lots of Gen 7 experience. I'm helping a friend with an LS1/Gen 7 setup. Does anyone know if the crank position sensor in the LS1 will work with a Gen 7? Some parts of Accel's web site seems to indicate it will work, but some of their documentation says the LS1 has a 24 tooth ring and the Gen 7 will only work with a 4 tooth ring.

Also, lets say I was just concerned with maximum horsepower and just a little driveability, what sensors would I need? I'm uncertian if I need the Manifold Surface Temp sensor, the Inlet Air Temp sensor, the MAF is gone already. I know I need the TPS, the MAP, the cam position sensor and crank sensor. It's got a wideband O2 sensor. Am I on the right track?

About the knock sensor- do I need anything to interface the stock LS1 knock sensor to the Gen 7? We may go to a solid lifter cam, will the knock sensor work with this?

I've done a few EFI conversions, but this is my first time with a Gen 7. Getting information on the capabilities and requirements of the Gen 7 isn't easy. I want to get everything I can out of the thing.

Please help me out.

Here's a pic of my 95 Roadmaster LT1 to 89 IROC conversion, did it all myself and it started and went into closed loop on the first try. I'm really good at soldering wires

Here's the HUGE TURBO part, my home made afterburning jet go-kart-

I built this for about $200, the turbine was made from a huge turbocharger off an M-60 army tank. This is the slowest cheapest POS I ever took to the strip, it's also the most fun. It does 70mph in just under 20 seconds. I was on Junkyard Wars with a similar project.

Now I'm just trying to set up this Gen 7 and I don't want you all to think I'm a total noob. If anyone needs help with a jet engine or any laser/waterjet cut parts let me know. We have some awesome laser and waterjets where I work. Thanks for your time.

Chris

 

[turbodave231]

I don't know anything aboutyour LT1 setup.....but the kart is cool!! I have wanted to build a jet engine from a turbo ever since I read some guy's write up about a jet powered beer cooler.

Dave

 

[65malibuss]

Blue Hoses

What are the blue hoses on the drive side going to the back of the engine?
Are those the Aeroquip sockletless fuel lines?
I'm thinking about using them in my LC2 Impala SS project.
Thanks.

 

[serpent99]

the blue hoses are 3/8 parker pushlok hose. I used some of their hydraulic fittings to adapt all the fuel rail connections.Iit was cheap and reliable.

 

[65malibuss]

Oh Man

According to the Parker website, Push-Lok hose is not recommended for use with fuel. Aeroquip has a similar hose called Socketless and is acceptable for use with fuel.

 

[serpent99]

I've never heard this before. I've been using it and seeing it used for a long time for gasoline. The hose holds up better than any other hose I've used, it doesn't dry out and I've personally soaked sections of the hose in gasoline for a long time and the stuff seems almost indestructable. I've also pumped hot oil and propane through the stuff and it's better than anything else. There's a liability issue when reccomending the hose for gasoline or any other potentially hazardous material, it was probably more economical to just not qualify the hose for gasoline use and make money on all the other safer applications. I'll inspect the fuel system and keep an eye on the hoses, but I've used this hose on another project and it's been in use about 5 years- the hose is just as workable as it was the day I installed it.

 

[aDFIguy]

Chris,

You need to make sure that you have the LS1 specific kit for the DFI Gen 7 P/N 77050. It comes with an additional ignition module that converts the LS1 cam/crank signals into something the DFI can read.

If you choose, you can ignore the Manifold surface temp sensor. If you have a v4.0 ECM, you can just switch it off, otherwise you can program out it's effects and leave it unconnected. Everything else is pretty critical. The wideband is a useful tuning aid.

The DFI knock input is just a binary signal from a knock module that goes active to indicate the presence of knock. Any module that functions similarly will work.

Make sure you use good plug wires with the LS1 setup. Cheap wires have been a source of more than a few problems. I'd try to use the stock truck wires that came on some of the LS1-based platforms if you can get your hands on them.

 

[serpent99]

Thanks for your input. The cam sensor, crank sensor, and the coil packs attach to a small black box, that sounds about right. If the Manifold Surface Temp doesn't help then it's gone.

There's some wires coming out of the Gen 7 that are supposed to be connected directly to the battery. If the battery is mounted in the trunk, should I still run some dedicated wires or can I connect to the battery cable at the starter, alternator or main fuse box? I guess they want clean 12 volt power to the Gen 7, should I put a few capacitors on the 12v battery feed at the Gen 7 to make up for not being connected to thee battery?

 

[serpent99]

The DFI I have is 77022LS1 Anyone know exactly what this is?

 

[aDFIguy]

The DFI I have is 77022LS1 Anyone know exactly what this is?

77022L == SBC LT1 kit, not for the LS1.

As for the wiring, anything that is supposed to go direct to the battery should go directly to the battery. Especially in an LS1 application, where you'll see a higher level of electronic noise anyway. Do whatever you can to connect things as specified, and anything you can to shield the ECM/LS1 module from plug wires and coil noise.

 

[serpent99]

weird... the S1 after the L was written in by hand. I think this unit was an early one. It was running the motor but they could never get the crank sensor to work properly so they ran it off the cam sensor.