Hyd roller lifters -help

[Bobtempest]

When a lifter starts leaking down, look out for that false knock. It is not there until the oil and engine gets warmed up. I had a weak set of valve springs and had a small amount of false knock and with the new springs a lot more knock. I found this when I went to readjust them.

Anyone know where I can get a set of Hyd roller lifters (Comp cam 853-12) (retro fit 57-87 SB Chevy) quick and reasonable? I know they have been on back order due to the company that supplies them folding. Comp Cam told me they will have them by Wed and suppose to ship major suppliers only this week. Looks like a couple weeks wait if I am lucky. I have a race to attend and need a set this week. I want replace the whole set. If you know where I can get a new set, I would appreciate it.
Bobtempest@aol.com

 

[Nick Micale]

Give me a call Bob.

 

[Bobtempest]

Thank you Nick, for coming to my aid in record time. He broke up a cam kit and shipped them today so I would not have to wait. How's that for service?

Thanks

 

[turbosam6]

Hey Bob, if you have a second, how do you know if you have a lifter bleeding down? I run the hyd. roller lifters, too, and I get this tapping noise after driving the car for a while. It sounds valvetrain related, and you have to drive it for quite a while to get it to happen. My oil pressure doesn't drop, and the problem will come and go. I think I have the same problem as you. It sets off my knock guage pretty good when it does it. No real metal in the filter or anything, and it comes and goes in one trip, so we are pretty sure its not bearings. The motor is fresh, and the oil pressure stays up. What do you think? How do I tell its a lifter? And will it hurt the car? It goes away when you get on it, so performance doesn't suffer, only my brain suffers fro trying to figure this out. Thanks for your time, glad Nick could hook you up!

 

[Bobtempest]

At higher pressure the lifters do not have time to bleed down. The hot oil leaks down faster and clearances get a little looser. That is why it has to warm first. Does it set off the sensor when flash rev to around 2800? I mean hitting the pedal and letting off fast.
With the valves on the heal of the cam, does the push rod side of the rocker feel mushy after it has been off for a time? It will hurt performance (Timing pulled out) and bug you with that knock box.
Hope this will help.

 

[tazgn]

You know, I've had this exact same problem since my last rebuild. I thought it was just the injectors because I can FEEL the knock in the fuel rails only. But it's pretty much non-existent at cold idle, and slowly builds to a pretty noticable tapping as the car warms up. I don't get and KR though from it. I've tried adjusting the valve train with no changes. How much are the new roller lifters? I think I know which 2 sets of lifters are the culprits too. I have the ATR roller cam kit. Are these the same roller lifters?

Thanks,
Derrick

 

[turbosam6]

Yeah Bob, thats how I usually get it to do it. Just rev it to 2500 or so, up and down on the revs, and it taps and sets off the Knock guage. As far as how the pushrods feel, I can't tell a difference, but I'm no expert. How else can I check, or are you fairly certain this is my problem? Thaks again!

 

[Bobtempest]

Originally posted by turbosam6
Yeah Bob, thats how I usually get it to do it. Just rev it to 2500 or so, up and down on the revs, and it taps and sets off the Knock guage. As far as how the pushrods feel, I can't tell a difference, but I'm no expert. How else can I check, or are you fairly certain this is my problem? Thanks again!

It is hard to certain about anything about these cars other than they are the best ride around when they are right.
Are you certain preload on the rockers is set right?

 

[turbosam6]

My engine builder told me the preload was set at 60 thousanths, per comp cams recommendations. I thought it was supposed to be 30-40 thousanths, but thats what comp said. I can't imagine it being anything else, because bearing failure wouldn't come and go, and it should get worse, plus the oil pressure hasn't moved, and its 20 psi at hot idle. What do you think of adjustable pushrods? I might try a set when I swap intakes this winter.

 

[TurboBob]

roller cam false knocking, more questions.

A friend has this same issue, I think. His is a mid 10 sec. car with a 212 roller.

Can we start gathering data on combo's, symptoms, and cures.... we would really like to
keep his knock sensor working.

so, Scotts car is
.030 stock block {billet caps AND girdle }
TRW's
212 roller not sure who's {Comp Extreme}
booster plate in oil pump
lotsa spring pressure (130 lbs or so) raised to stop popping
unsure if factory oil cooler is still connected {It does}
champion heads, roller rockers. {1.55 ratio rockers, cam is ~.500 lift }
unsure of oil type or weight {10W30}

I'll add other data as this thread continues.....

Since I am contemplating a mild roller for my daily driver, I'd like to hear what
you guys know about all this.

TurboBob {edits}

 

[turbosam6]

Well, my combo is in my sig., but here goes:

Stock block, .20 over
J&E pistons
10/10 crank
stock rods
stock rockers
champion irons
210/210 billet roller
unsure of spring pressure
high volume front cover

The symptoms include a "tapping" at around 2000-3000 rpm, on and off, after driving for at least 20-30 minutes, maybe longer. Oil pressure is constant, as is coolant temp.

 

[TurboBob]

added some data to my post above

TurboBob

 

[turbosam6]

TTT