I Give!!!!! Codes 54,52,51,45,43,42,41,35,33!!!

[rb68rr]

I got on it today and when it reached about 4600 rpm's in 2nd gear It bucked real hard and the ses light came on. I immediatley let off and the ses ight stayed on. I checked the code on the Scanmaster and it was a 42. Came to a stoplight and it died. Started right back up and I checked the Scanmaster again. This time it started flashing codes 54,52,51,45,43,42,41,35, and 33. When I got home I reset the ecm and none of the codes came back. Also when I would restart the car the Scanmaster would show things like 13.4 degrees of knock on the first flash, then about 3.9 on the second flash, and then finally 0 on the third flash. I have been chasing the bucking problem for about a month with no success. I have swapped out the coil pack with known good one, replaced the ignition module with a new AC Delco, Swapped out the ecm with a known good one, different injectors, new spark plugs and wires, put new white wire and tan/black wire on that goes from the ignition module to the ecm, checked the ground wires behind passenger head, and cleaned all the electrical conectors. What the hell is left????? I give up!!!! R.B.

 

[BlackBandit]

Have you checked the orange wire that provides power to the ECM?

 

[TurboJim]

Sou\nds like if the positive b attery cable isnt touching your header, tyhat you got a failing ECM. 51 is prom error, 52 I believe is calpak error, 54 I believe is AD failure, 42 is EST, 41 I forget, but think its cam sensor or WG solenoid.

 

[rb68rr]

How do you check the orange wire? I swapped out the ecm with a known good one with similar results.

 

[BlackBandit]

You use an ohm meter and check for resistance from one end to the other. (bat. to ECM) Move the wire around while you're checking the resistance to make sure you don't have an intermittent break. (ie: wire's broken inside the insulation but still touching) A good ECM doesn't do you any good if it's not getting any power. Also, likeTurboJim said, your positive battery cable may be grounding out on the header. This will have the same results as the wire being broken.

 

[striker_29]

I didn't see it mentioned anywhere, but you did try a different chip right? Still sounds like the ecm to me. Good luck!

 

[rb68rr]

I have checked the positive battery cable and it doesn't look like it is touching anything. I have also changed chips to no avail. I haven't checked the orange wire yet but I will. I drove it around for about an hour today without getting into the boost and everything was normal. It only happens when you get heavy into the boost. Would a bad wastegate solenoid cause any of these problems? Thanks, R.B.

 

[BlackBandit]

Is your batery securely mounted? Look for arcing marks on the header. My car did this thing where the power would flatten out at around 8-10 psi of boost. Eventually it started to buck and soon progressed to throwing allot of codes. I couldn't figure it out until I started to see my scanmaster synchronize with the serial data (---- ---) while it was doing it. Then I realized my ecm was losing power. It turned out my orange ECM wire was broken inside the insulation by the weather pack connector in the engine compartment. It was making contact when it didn't move, but when I got on it pretty hard it would move and lose contact. Anyway, that's why I suggested checking that wire. Good luck!

 

[randymc1]

Have you replaced the other motor mount and tranny mount yet to eliminate all the movement. If every thing is moving all around you could be chasing one problem to the next forever. Did you pull the engine wiring harness apart and check for partially broken ground wires or wiggle ohm them. Sure the ends maybe connected securely but they won't help if there broken elsewhere.

 

[rb68rr]

I haven't replaced the passenger side mount yet but the tranny mount is new. I did put a tie down strap on it so the motor is not moving that much. When it comes to chasing wires and shorts, I'm lost! I have a volt-ohm meter but wouldn't know how or where to start checking.