Ignition Module Hotwire Installation

[pmoore4321]

 

[TurboBuRick]

Alrighty

 

[jasjamz]

Caspers sells the plug and play setup for that so you can keep from cutting your harness. Been around for quite some time too.

 

[berserker6]

why are you doing this? (im still learning)

 

[daturbosix]

Caspers sells the plug and play setup for that so you can keep from cutting your harness. Been around for quite some time too.

werd dawg.

 

[pmoore4321]

Caspers sells the plug and play setup for that so you can keep from cutting your harness. Been around for quite some time too.

I searched and could not find any posts related to the topic. Can you point me to them? I want to see how other people are doing it.

 

[daturbosix]

I searched and could not find any posts related to the topic. Can you point me to them? I want to see how other people are doing it.

CEI - Casper's Electronics, Inc.

 

[pmoore4321]

If you do it yourself it will cost about $4 in parts and 30 minutes of your time.

 

[Mark E.]

A fuse on the hot wire might not be a bad idea.

 

[berserker6]

whats the benefit?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Anything that you hot wire, takes load off the 23 year old electrical system. It's a double benefit IMO. The hot wired component can get more power too.

It's a great idea.

Honestly, any after-market electrical device added to the car should be hot wired. The system was only designed for so much load and thats it.

 

[davidf]

I appreciate the info. I'm still learning myself.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I appreciate the info. I'm still learning myself.

Were all still learning. :biggrin:

 

[TurboBuRick]

The picture was throwing me off but based on the pin#s you have it configured right.

 

[pmoore4321]

A fuse on the hot wire might not be a bad idea.

Your right, a fuse is a must. I just didn't have any ATC fuse holders. There will be one on there tonight.

The whole thing is real easy to do. The pink/black wires are easily accessible under the hood of the CCCI connector. I soldered ALL the connections. I still need to wrap or loom the wire running to the alternator so it's not unsightly under the hood. Might be able to squeeze it in the fuel pump hotwire loom.

 

[pmoore4321]

The picture was throwing me of but based on the pin#s you have it configured right.

It's right. I drove around for an hour last night.

 

[pacecarta]

never mind i see the cuts now , that'll work

btw you can grab the ground for the relay at pin G or L

 

[19BuickGN87]

What amp fuse or fuseable link?

 

[pmoore4321]

never mind i see the cuts now , that'll work

btw you can grab the ground for the relay at pin G or L

Yeah, there are double +12v feeds to the inputs on the module and both are controlled simultaneously at the key. You just need one "leg" from the key side for the relay control.

I grounded mine to the factory junction just to the right of the relay in the pic. I also have a ground running from one of the three module mounting bolts to the same junction point. This eliminates any possibility of paint, powder coating, corrosion, etc. causing a bad ignition/coil ground. A problem may not happen at idle, but vibration and heat may cause an intermittent ground. If that happened you could be chasing Gremlins forever. It's been mentioned on here before and it's probably more important than the hotwire.

 

[liquidh8]

Thanks for this, I'll be doing this soon. I have to repin my plug anyway for the FAST START upgrade so this will be done at the same time. I guess you just capped off the ECM FUSE 12 vdc input?