I'm Back..let the wrenching begin !!

[charlief1]

It's cheaper to get a 6A or 6AL and then get a seperate BTM unit Vince. That's what I did. I think I have just over $200 in both of them.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Exhaust manifold/ Pipes

I got the right side exhaust manifold off ..came off pretty eaisly..Noticed a heat shield on it..and a big plastic part section of the firewall right next to it..Should I put some kind of a heat sheild on the new tube exhaust manifold I am putting in...or cover it in the insulation heat wrap?? Plan on putting the muffler right where the cat was...want to go with a 3 inch in and out..What is a good muffler to use that will sound good and last...besides maganaflow...since there is no real space under the car / tunnel for the exhaust pipe...that 3 incher will be close to the road..any ideas?? Anybody
ever use oval pipes... or even know where to get them.

 

[charlief1]

Are you planning on duals Vince? If not put the muffler behind the axle and you won't have a clearence issue.

 

[WarWagon]

I got the right side exhaust manifold off ..came off pretty eaisly..Noticed a heat shield on it..and a big plastic part section of the firewall right next to it..Should I put some kind of a heat sheild on the new tube exhaust manifold I am putting in...or cover it in the insulation heat wrap?? Plan on putting the muffler right where the cat was...want to go with a 3 inch in and out..What is a good muffler to use that will sound good and last...besides maganaflow...since there is no real space under the car / tunnel for the exhaust pipe...that 3 incher will be close to the road..any ideas?? Anybody
ever use oval pipes... or even know where to get them.

Vince 3" single pipe fits easily under the G-body, goes right under the trans cross-member and you can keep most of it in the drive shaft(propeller shaft) tunnel.
Put the muffler far away from the turbo to maximize spooling and keep the weight off the down-pipe.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Exhaust manifold/ Pipes

Good advice...I didn't even think about the spooling and the weight on the down pipe..still thinking normal exhaust...I guess I will put the muffler back in its orginal position ..sideways under the trunk ...am only thinking of running one pipe back....shouldn't there be some kind of a bracket for that down pipe just to make it more secure? I guess it could go some where on the under carriage as long as there was a rubber insulator in it to allow some kind of flex...good idea running it down the driveshaft tunnel.. I guess I could have dual exhaust right from the muffler if I had 3 outlets on it......am battling rust here, the car is rusting on the Undercarrage...sand blasted the Lower control arms and painted them black year...and they are holding up well..now the bottom of the rad support and the sway bar are starting to give it up to rust...I'm fighting the snow here in PA and the car is outside....Have to get some kind of a oversized shed to keep it in...
Anybody ever rebuild one of these auto trannses?? I think its something like a 200 R4 or something like that.....some people say its easy to rebuild it and some say forget about it.. Am probably going to tackle a Powerglide sometime this summer...maybe that will give me a little pratice before I tackle this one maybe next year...
Going to try to cut my crossover pipe in a straight part then weld in a little extension so it will bolt to my new exhaust manifold ...then paint all the parts with high temp cermanic paint.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

getting it together...trans

I have the stick on the column and want to convert it to a floor shifter..Now ...I have removed the computer from this car and I believe the trans isa 200 R4...Does the computer tell this trans to shift into overdrive?? I know they make a kit to work this trans in a non computer car...do I really need this ?? Also since myfloor shifter is worked by a cable and and the orginal was just a lever...what is a good way to hook it up?? Would I have to put a return spring on the other side of the lever on the gear shaft to pull it back into Park??

 

[charlief1]

The OD shifts itself but the lock up clutch is controled by the puter Vince.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Trans

What is the puter ??

 

[WarWagon]

What is the puter ??

comPUTER
the word was shortend.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Trans

So does that mean it will just come out of OD as soon as it goes in ?? I guess I will have to pick up that kit that lets a non computer car work with this trans... I was looking at my Floor shifter, I think it came out of a VW Jetta...This is one over engineered piece of work...its half plastic, but still extremely built...only thing is the cable is about 4 feet long...I guess its for reaching through the firewall and going on the transverse motor. I am hoping I will able to make this cable go in a big circle to be able to connect with my trans shift shaft. Will look at it closer to see If somehow I can shorten it. This shifter will not lend itself to just installing a steel linkage rod.
Still wondering how to hook up the linkage to the carb, its pretty close to the firewall. Recieved 3 turbo clamps from G-Pop shop...but they were too big..centers were off about 3/8 of an inch...must of been for the next bigger turbo...he says he will send replacements. Wondering how tight all of those pipes are going to be going down behind the Air compressor... Thinking by the looks of it that the compressor will have to come foward about one inch and will still fit the front pully for the air pump...then the compressor will have to be mounted higher too and I think it will work....I have those steel freon pipes on the back making a U...sticking out and thats what is messing me up.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Blow through turbo

Charlie, on your blow through Regal....are you running stock pistons or forged?? how about the rods ?? How much boost are you running..?? Do you have the whole carb in a pressuried can?...Are you having a problem with loosing pressure by blow through on the sides of the carb and around the throttle shafts?? I was thinking about going that route...but I figured this would be an eaiser setup..drawthrew..

 

[WarWagon]

So does that mean it will just come out of OD as soon as it goes in ?? I guess I will have to pick up that kit that lets a non computer car work with this trans... I was looking at my Floor shifter, I think it came out of a VW Jetta...This is one over engineered piece of work...its half plastic, but still extremely built...only thing is the cable is about 4 feet long...I guess its for reaching through the firewall and going on the transverse motor. I am hoping I will able to make this cable go in a big circle to be able to connect with my trans shift shaft. Will look at it closer to see If somehow I can shorten it. This shifter will not lend itself to just installing a steel linkage rod.
Still wondering how to hook up the linkage to the carb, its pretty close to the firewall. Recieved 3 turbo clamps from G-Pop shop...but they were too big..centers were off about 3/8 of an inch...must of been for the next bigger turbo...he says he will send replacements. Wondering how tight all of those pipes are going to be going down behind the Air compressor... Thinking by the looks of it that the compressor will have to come foward about one inch and will still fit the front pully for the air pump...then the compressor will have to be mounted higher too and I think it will work....I have those steel freon pipes on the back making a U...sticking out and thats what is messing me up.

No way, If you indeed have a 200r4 trans Once you shift it into OD or if you let the trans automatically shift in OD it will stay in OD until you manually drop it down into 3rd gear or you fully press the accelerator to make the trans downshift. All of that is controlled by the TV cable only and it has to be adjusted right or is causes all kinds of trans trouble. If I remember right you can simply operate the torque converter lock up on a switch by splicing into the trans harness, or buy the kit.
Most floor style shifters or perhaps all, use about a 4 foot cable that runs through the floor board then operates the shift shaft. New floor shifters come with a bracket that bolts onto the trans pan rail that then holds the floor shifter cable housing/sleeve, then a lever that bolts onto the shifter shaft is where you connect the working end of the floor shifter cable.
If you don't have those brackets Vince you will have to buy or make some. You can't control the factory Z bar linkage with a floor shifter you have to remove it all.
Your missing the throttle and trans cable bracket. It bolts onto the side of the carb plenum and also the top of cyl #5 exhaust manifold bolt that has an extended stud. You can get universal throttle/trans cable bracket and modify it to fit and work with the factory Qjet drawthru even that close to the fire wall. I had to do that on my 4.1 when I swapped it in place of one of my 3.8's once because I misplaced that bracket which I later found and sold to A.J along with the rest of my drawthru equipment.
I hope your AC lines are not steel. They all should be aluminum/rubber.

 

[WarWagon]

Charlie, on your blow through Regal....are you running stock pistons or forged?? how about the rods ?? How much boost are you running..?? Do you have the whole carb in a pressuried can?...Are you having a problem with loosing pressure by blow through on the sides of the carb and around the throttle shafts?? I was thinking about going that route...but I figured this would be an eaiser setup..drawthrew..

Vince, Charlie hasn't replied about this. You might be mixed up and really be meaning to ask me. hmm??

 

[charlief1]

Charlie, on your blow through Regal....are you running stock pistons or forged?? how about the rods ?? How much boost are you running..?? Do you have the whole carb in a pressuried can?...Are you having a problem with loosing pressure by blow through on the sides of the carb and around the throttle shafts?? I was thinking about going that route...but I figured this would be an eaiser setup..drawthrew..

Programs, Programs, get your programs here, can't tell the players without a program.:biggrin: LOL

Adam's the one with the blow through Vince.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Trans...

I do have the orginal bracket that holds the trans shift cable and the gas pedal cable...just hoping I have room to mount it.. this newer manifold I have now does not have the 3 posts on it to support the old bracket...but I guess I can fab something up.. Yes they are aluminum tubes comming out of the back of the air conditioner compressor...War Wagon I saw adamK on your bio with a 84 buick regal blow threw on it... I just thought that was yours.. I guess when I really think of it..there are only two wires comming out of the left side of the trans...I am thinking that is for the lockup. Why couldn't I just put a switch on it and flip it on when I wanted to. I had an old Astro Van with a V6 in it and a 200R4 trans and when the trans would lock up after 50 MPH it would stay in OD until it came down to about 30 MPH...Brakes wore out quick and that thing would not stop...Then I put in a newer trans out of a Vette...just had to change the tail section...and that worked great...did what it was suppose to do...Although I do not see 2 Ds on the shift indicator...Which I believe that My old Astro Van did have.. You have me wondering now.. I am guessing this is an OD trans because of the two wires comming out of the side of the trans.

 

[charlief1]

Yes, you can just use a switch to turn the lock feature in and off Vince. Fairly simple as well.

 

[WarWagon]

, on your blow through Regal....are you running stock pistons or forged?? how about the rods ?? How much boost are you running..?? Do you have the whole carb in a pressuried can?...Are you having a problem with loosing pressure by blow through on the sides of the carb and around the throttle shafts?? I was thinking about going that route...but I figured this would be an eaiser setup..drawthrew..

Don't know if you read through: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/before-black-non-sfi-tech/294806-repeat-procedure.html
All that info is in there. But you asked so here it is again: The pistons are stock cast and the rods are stock, The whole block and everything iron is stock right down to the steel shim headgaskets, even the ALL the bearings are stock. I only installed a new rubber rear seal and swapped out the cam and lifters to stock lc2. I'm running 20psi boost. I've never used a carb enclosure. The blowthru carb technology has been so advanced that carb enclosures have become obsolete. I don't have any issues with boost or fuel leaking from anywhere on my blowthru carbs. My blowthru Q-jet wouldn't leak any boost or fuel at the throttle shafts but the accelerator pump will not seal beyond 10-12psi even then just barely so.
Drawthru is much easier, simpler with fewer parts for sure.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Psi

Thanks for running over that again...don't do too well on retrieving info on this site..Its good to know that I could tweek up up to 20psi without blowing it up...Have decieded to spray some clear on some of the aluminum parts after I clean them up a little more. I cleaned up my alternator a few years ago and its all corroded again.. so I know I have to do something... as soon as I get this thing running I will put up a oversize shed to keep it in.. Picked up a Vortech Ignition / Boost control box..I am hoping this will work with a turbo..

 

[mat231v6]

as soon as I get this thing running I will put up a oversize shed QUOTE]


if you have a turbo controller box in that oversized shed i will buy it.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

wrenching it..

I like that...