I'm Back..let the wrenching begin !!

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Turbo

Hey......that sounds great...I have been trying to make on out of a bed frame and a corrigated metal water feed for a sink...found out fast that the frame on a bed is heat treated and will require a cobolt drill to get through it..:frown:

 

[charlief1]

There's an auto light plug that most of the guys use but I can't remember it's number for nothing right now. On a much brighter note, a friend of Norbs and I have been talking and it turns out he's an Electrical engineer. I sent him the link to Petes Buick and he's gonna take a look at the circuit board to see if he can replicate the turbo control centers for us.

 

[mat231v6]

There's an auto light plug that most of the guys use but I can't remember it's number for nothing right now. On a much brighter note, a friend of Norbs and I have been talking and it turns out he's an Electrical engineer. I sent him the link to Petes Buick and he's gonna take a look at the circuit board to see if he can replicate the turbo control centers for us.

thats good news. i hope he can.

 

[charlief1]

Well he's a new member here now so see if you can find him. Pauls name is jamacanpaul and he's got some interesting cars. How about a Stage II car with a stock looking intake. He sent me some of the info on what he's doing and I'm impressed to say the least.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

A photo is worth a 1000 words

Heres a few photos that have really really helped me out....also I picked up a turbo drain flange with nipple machined out of aluminum for 11 bucks on e-bay with free shipping...just have to add a steel braided hose and away I go. I might of added the wrong photo by accident... Hope not....busy making turbo mounting brackets

 

[WarWagon]

Like dam look at those pics! that is the cleanest and most orginal OE looking drawthru engine assembly ever(prob NOS).

Vince here's an Idea: Looks like a 3/4"-1/2" Brass bushing will fit in the oil return hole on the intake manifold. Thread(I wanna say TAP)that hole, put the bushing in it then put a hose barb in the bushing. Connect your braided line on your new drain adaptor and cut it to fit to the hose barb once the turbo is mocked up, Perhaps a good leak free seal with boost and you don't have to service it.

 

[charlief1]

If you feel like it you can use a file and some sand papaer to smothe the outside of the inducer housing Vince. Then either pain it or leave it alone. Looks good so far.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Oil drain / Plumbing it

Sounds like a plan...I have a strange setup in the oil drain hole in the manifold....somebody actually glued in a rubber hose witha 5/8 to 3/4 ID...go figure..You gave me some ideas...I am thinking now that a brass 3/4 pipe fitting with a stepped nipple to accept the drain hose from the turbo will work with a hose clamp on it..or depending on the oil drain hose I get it might just fit real tight down into the hose that is glued in there allready..will see what happenes....then the down pipe and see what fun that brings...have to get those side pipes on to see where I can locate that air conditioner at...looks like one inch foward and a few inches up and I should make it..The rain is holding me up...the car is outside...have to get this car running this summer.. That right valve cover ( actually the orginal left one) has a fill cap in it and hitting the exhaust side of the turbo..will have to weld that close and put in a breather pipe like I did on the other side....this way I could fill the from the front of the valve cover and and I will have those 2 chrome breathers sticking up from the valve covers...I think I saw that on a GN I saw a while back and it looked sharp..

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yeah the oil drains are annoying. Major pain. When I got my engine I had to build a new one. Brazed a brass hose barb onto the stock turbo flange and pounded a freeze plug into the intake drain hole with a hose barb brazed into that. Used a hydralic hose.

When I changed my turbo I messed around with it. Couldnt get the hose to seat. Ended up putting a hole in the freeze plug and just putting the hose in looser. Put a bead of silicone around it. It should seal good enough.

If I were you I wouldnt use steel braided line unless its good. That oil comes out of that turbo HOT and hot oil is nasty stuff.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Oil drain

Thanks for the feedback, Plan on going down to the local speed shop and see what kind of high temp hoses they have...saw them on E-bay but by the time I paid for the shipping it would cost more than the hose....In my mind thats almost a done deal...worried about the piping going down on the side of the motor..damn thats tight ...

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Exhaust help needed

I got this down pipe from E-Bay last year...What the &%$# is going on..there is only a 2 bolt flange instead of a 3.....How did he ever hook it up ?? Am I missing a pipe maybe ?? Seems like it would wrap right around the motor on its way down.. Also the braided steel pipe I put on to the turbo exhaust inlet was off almost a half an inch...I was able to force it on with a big bar....but....but I can still slide a piece of paper under each flange and I can't make it any tighter....its going to leak....was thinking that maybe when it heated up it might warp into place with all the pressure under the bolts holding it......or maybe I could get some of that muffler gunk and smear it on the connections and then bolt it together...hate to do it that way...When I was beating on the braided steel I saw white power comming out...so I looked closer and I think this sucker is wraped in asbesteous...No way to slide this off I don't think...although it might expand like a Chineese finger braid...I don't think I like the idea of asbestous in my engine..
So what do you think guys...should I cut off the dual bolt flange on the downpipe and split a 3 bolt flange then weld it on ??

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Thats an 84/85 hot air down pipe. They work on Carbed cars but it takes some work with the upper 1/4.

 

[mat231v6]

looks like you have some hot air parts.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Downpipe

It looks like the only way it will go on is if I remove the exhaust manifold, then put in the downpipe then reinstall the exhaust manifold. Seems better to me if the down pipe ran down the top of the frame then out...

 

[charlief1]

Botht the up and down pipe are HA not C/T. The down pipe may work but the up pipe is the wrong one for sure. You do have to take the makifold out to remove or instal the down pipe though.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Exhaust manifold/ Pipes

Since I am so close with the in pipe...I will just split it and remove that asbestous...then weld in a extra piece to make it fit well....On that down pipe I guess I will have to split also...probably just cut off that cat flange and slide off the 2 bolt flange and put on a 3 bolt flange... What kind of a flang should I put at the bottom of the down Pipe ?? Maybe just a step up to a 3 inch straight pipe ?? Do want to use a a 3 inch exhaust...was wondering why the downpipe was so heavy...it is double wall....problems...probelms...Was looking at a universal 3 bolt flange from the local parts store...it came in 3 pieces and would adjust to various sizes..But when I mounted it around my flange I had a quarter of an inch on each side of the pipe where the flang was not touching... It was like it was really for a 2.5 inch dia pipe..it was kind of flimsly too...didn't think it would work too well.... Thanks guys for the input.. ran to a few stores and as usual nobody had anything I needed...had a few beers and a pizza and set up a game plan......now on asbestous removal...wear a good air resperator / rubber gloves and keep it wet and bag it.......

 

[charlief1]

On the bottom leave it alone so you can use a dump pipe. Then you can use a stock rear like the pypes cat back. Nice system and it's stainless.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Dump Pipe ??

What is a dump Pipe ?? the down pipe has a square flange for the cat, which I will not be using... Are you talking about something that bolts up to the square flange...a cutout...?? I didn't think they made them in a square flange.. Here in PA if your car is an Antique you don't have to go through inspection....so I don't need the cat at all..Stainless is going to be way out of my price range..Plan to make the exhaust with 3 inch cheap tubing and paint it black to prevent it from rusting.. Any idea where I can get a transverse muffler with 3 inch in and 2 outs with 2.5 outlets ?? Even the speed shop around here doesn't even know squat or have squat either...

 

[charlief1]

I ment cut out Vince, not dump. The pypes system is around $300 shipped from jegs or summit. Very cheap for a full stainless system, including mufflers. If you want just a muffler the look at magnaflows. Great prices and they're stainless as well.

 

[Mr. Upholsterer]

Exhaust manifold/ Pipes

Does that pypes system go into the driveshaft tunnel ?? I was looking at their muffler and that was 141. Thats not a bad price considering their pro muffler is insane at 572. bucks... That would save me a lot of time on my back thats for sure and I could do it once and forget about it.. I will have to look around somemore for their catalog... I was thinking minuim $500 bucks for a stainless system.. Would probably be worth putting in a stainless system at that price.. well have to get back to massaging my pipes...