In need of SERIOUS GOOD ADVICE, Please!

[meanchicken]

I can’t imagine anyone willing to take beer money from a guy serving in Afghanistan??

We should be sending you beer money!!!



..

X5000 on that one.

 

[just plain john]

Yeah, like they have beer in Afghanistan. Nuts, if you ever make it to Houston the beer is on me.

 

[Red C5]

First of all, thanks for serving. A good friend of mine was over there about a year ago.
Good luck on your build. Just take your time, ask lots of questions, and do it right the first time.

Peter

 

[The_Six]

It sounds to me like a good stock build would be all you need. Your car doesn’t have many miles on it and if you’re sure that 450 is what you want then I would just pull the engine remove the heads look at the cylinder walls bet they will look great and if you check clearances I bet everything is still in check. Remove the main and rod caps and look at the bearings you will be able to tell a lot from them how the engine was you will probably find it is in over all great condition. I did a almost stock rebuild on my car I had added a roller cam all for under $3k you can read what all I did here: https://sites.google.com/site/whatwazithinking/grand-national/3-8-turbo-engine-build

 

[GorillaNuts]

Wow I'm seriously surprised by the turn out and support. You guys are pretty damn cool on this site. I really appreciate it.

681... Nice site. You've done alot man. Def. bookmarked your page. Thanks.

Everyone else.... I've printed out some of your posts, especially the start to finish ones like, KL Mallender, machinegun and TurboTNZ06"s to compare with the guy doing the work. Jack @JL Enterprises in Texas (Good Dude BTW).

Charlie.. I will have to come up and have you teach me a few things. I've looked at you work on the link. very impressed!

just plain john To drink a beer is a good enough reason for this TexasBoy to travel. Thanks man.

 

[KL Mallender]

Gorilla, just get your a## home in one piece to your family and we'll throw you a beer bash deffinately worthy of bragging rights to your buddies there.
We thank people like you, because you got Buick blood running the show, we understand....we've all had to deal with that disorder...no cure, just good treatments available.
Good luck (and keep your head down), see you when you get back :biggrin:

Kevin.

 

[GorillaNuts]

^ Copy That, Bossman!

These are my t-type of people!:biggrin:

 

[charlief1]

^ Copy That, Bossman!

These are my t-type of people!:biggrin:

LOL If you can get home soon and get the car together there's a race in October.:biggrin: Ferd VS Buick and we're in the lead so far for the last few years.

 

[wmerrell]

The first step would be fitting the engine with a "mid-plate" restraint to control block twist before you actually twist it out of centerline.
Holding an engines position by front mounts or tie-down strap is not in your best interest, although it is much easier and does accomplish anti-movement, you are asking the block to hold back the rotational forces fed back through driveshaft/transmission during acceleration, This is number one reason for cracked #3 main cap. I am a proponent for girdles but even they can't resist these forces.
Yes, steel caps conform to movement that castings won't(steel can distort, castings do not) but you would still experience bad wear on main journals because crank centerline(block) moves if held by the front.
This modification (mid-plate) will solve lower end failures(except oil pressure related issuse's), but head sealing will still be problematic if tuning is not right, pushing timing advance with leaner fuel mixtures will create higher peak numbers, but these peaks are what you should avoid.
If you keep these forces in mind, creating horsepower gets easier when you dont have to replace short blocks frequently, others here have much more experience with latest power combinations than I am, I haven't touched a 3.8 since the late nineties, 3800's rule in my book.
Good luck.


Kevin.

Is this a mid-plate?



RJC Racing Rear Motor Brace

This is a brand new idea from RJC Racing. This will keep the motor in place on those hard launches. Everyone knows how much these motors move around with the stock motormounts. The old remedy was to put a tyedown strap on the alternator bracket to try and tame the engine rotation a little. This is totally inadequate and a very poor way of controlling the motor. This new bracket controls the motor from the rear of the engine. Therefore elimination harmfull rotational stress on the motor and transfering that energy where it is supposed to go. They simply work great. above shows a picture of how they are mounted. 100% bolt on. no drilling required.

 

[charlief1]

That's a brace. A mid plate bolts in between the engine and the tranny, and mounts to the frame on either side of the engine.

 

[KL Mallender]

Mid- plate

Kevin.

 

[wmerrell]

Thanks! I guess they are not being manufactured for turbo Buicks. Must be a custom item.