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installing springs with no engine or body. and q about clocking

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1Badelky

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2008
Messages
142
I have to install my S10 ZQ8 coils with no weight on the front end, so I need to compress them I guess. I have heard that when using a spring compressor though, the long bolt tends to hit the top of the frame before the spring is in.

how do you do it, never used a spring compressor? fit the compressor in the spring, slide the end with the hex head through the a-arm shock hole and use an impact gun?

do the balljoints simply pop themselves through the spindle hole when I tighten the castle nut, or is a BFH needed?


I guess I take the spring compressor apart to free it from the now assembled suspension?


I've also heard that you can compress the spring outside of the suspenson and tie it with 3-4 coat hangers, install, then cut the wire, but.... that sounds dangerous


so basically, how do I do this without being clobbered? everything I've read is assuming the engine and body weight will hold the frame down.


is there a certain way to "clock" the springs, or does it matter?
 
you don't need a compressor- just a decent 1/4" log chain with at least one hook, good tall jack stands, and a decent (3 ton or bigger) floor jack. i'll assume that the upper control arm is installed and that the spindle is hanging on the upper balljoint, with the nut installed on the ball joint stud.
here's what you do:
1) get the car up as high in the air as you can- at least 2 feet if possible.
2) set the spring in the pocket, and line up the end of the spring with the alignment hole in the control arm (or frame- i don't know how g bodies line up).
3)put the floor jack under the lower balljoint and jack it up until the front of the car just starts to lift.
4) loop the chain over the frame right next to the control arm, and loop it around the front axle of the floor jack. pull it as tight as you can and hook it to itself.
5) pump up the jack to lift thel ower balljoint and compress the spring. lift it as high as you need to get the lower balljoint to go into the spindle.
6) put the nut on the lower balljoint and snug it down with a wrench.
7) lower the jack, remove the chain, and go to the other side and do that one.
 
I'd like to avoid chaingin it because it is painted.


anyone know if spring clocking matters?
 
I'd like to avoid chaingin it because it is painted.


anyone know if spring clocking matters?

are you refering to where the cut end goes in the lower control arm? if you are then yes, it matters. Theres two littlw holes in the back part of the spring pocket in the lower control arm, thats where the butt end of the last coil has to go. its like an indent.
 
I'm in the same boat you are. Haven't quite figured out how to do this yet. I'm thinking the motor and trans will not be enough weight to compress the springs. I had my friend that is a pretty good side guy jump on the front before I pulled the springs out and it didn't budge. So double the weight, I doubt it's gonna be enough. I'm guessing the shell has gotta weigh around 1000 lbs gutted so would probably at least need the shell on to get some weight on the springs. Yeah it's not gonna be fun, hope someone comes up with an idea!
 
are you refering to where the cut end goes in the lower control arm? if you are then yes, it matters. Theres two littlw holes in the back part of the spring pocket in the lower control arm, thats where the butt end of the last coil has to go. its like an indent.

that's what I'm referring to, thank you.


can anyone guide me through using a compressor properly? I'm trying to get all this done this weekend.
 
Snap on sells a tool that goes through the shock hole and pulls spring into frame.I never put spring in with lower ball joint removed. I take lower control arm bolts and put spring in from the inside.The chevy dealer I worked at had the tool that went on a trans jack that grabbed lower control bushings.If you use snap on tool it does not matter what way the spring goes in.The spring compressor that grabs the out side of the spring is real dangerous .I had one bust while I was setting spring in arm.The snap-on tool is the best tool I have used. takes about half hour a side .Thats with the car on a lift.
 
I'd like to avoid chaingin it because it is painted.


anyone know if spring clocking matters?
if you don't want to use chains, then use some heavy duty ratchet straps. or just throw a bunch of rags between the frame and chain to protect the finish.
 
hmm. I wonder how much that tool is? I think I might just assemble the front when I get the body back on.
 
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