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intermittant issue....sd2....caught a log finally,please help

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how is the sensor grounded?

the logs with the funny tune settings didn't save correctly,

try using the latest PLC I posted in the flex fuel thread. It has a couple fixes in it for that.

Bob
i have it grounded to the body real close to the sensor.everything is soldered,and i use dielectric grease on everything.
ill get that latest plc right now thanks.
just took for a good twenty min drive and everything seems sweet.these are awesome cars when it runs like it does 95% of the time.
 
body grounds suck, and are only appropriate for stuff like turn signals and tail lights.

Bob
 
if i have a wire fromground on battery to the same spot on body,thats good?
or what do you recomend
 
this happening before i did the gauge swap,but anyways....after switching my 145mph analog dash out with a new never installed avc dash,with an electric speedo.when i first turned the car on my alky started pumping alky.
it turned out i lost the ground to the MAP.?????????????dont know how that happened.i plugged in my powerlogger and disconnected the pump,and saw 30# boost reading on map,during a non running situation.thats what made me check the wires.i found the ground wire on the map was not grounded anymore.so i dont know how it would have read 5v without ground.
their is 3 wires.5v/G/Signal....so i grounded the wire on the map.finally it went normal.

so what does an ecm restart mean?
what do you recomend i test on the map?

I believe the stock map was used to run the boost gauge on the stock cluster only? Maybe by swapping out the gauge(s) a connection was lost?
 
I believe the stock map was used to run the boost gauge on the stock cluster only? Maybe by swapping out the gauge(s) a connection was lost?
probably right on that one,lost a ground in their.
body grounds suck, and are only appropriate for stuff like turn signals and tail lights.

Bob
how do you run grounds throughout the car bob,detailed way would be great.certain type of a block?straps,etc.
 
Maybe run the ground down the fender to the fender ground that the battery attaches too?
 
The ground cable goes from the battey to the engine block. That makes the engine the main ground. All the system and sensor grounds go to the back of the passenger head. Or at least they did from the factory. They sometimes get moved to trans bolts or intake bolt. Thats not a problem but they must have tight connections. Have you have a look at these grounds?

Any grounds added from the engine to the body are grounding the body. The body can then be used like Bob says, for lights and stereos but sensors grounds should always have a direct link to the engine to prevent any problems with offsets or intermittent connections.

Rick
 
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ground it to the engine, or use the TPS ground circuit. There is a harness that caspers makes and Alky Control sells that will make the TPS power and ground connections.

Bob
 
The ground cable goes from the battey to the engine block. That makes the engine the main ground. All the system and sensor grounds go to the back of the passenger head. Or at least they did from the factory. They sometimes get moved to trans bolts or intake bolt. Thats not a problem but they must have tight connections. Have you have a look at these grounds?

Any grounds added from the engine to the body are grounding the body. The body can then be used like Bob says, for lights and stereos but sensors grounds should always have a direct link to the engine to prevent any problems with offsets or intermittent connections.

Rick
yes i have the grounds from head to the intake,tight and clean/scraped.i also have a cable from the top post of neg on battery to the body,not on, but near my other grounds for the map and a few other things i have grounded their.
but i will get that ground directly to these wires,to see if i can eliminate that part.

gonna hit the track wed ,first time this year...tryin for my first 11sec slip,last year i got as close as 12.01....now new turbo/tranny/converter.i feel confident though.
 
You've got the goods to do it.(y)
 
the signal wire from the MAP sensor ,is it being used by the computer @ all?
since it goes to the powerlogger,can i just run a new wire to the powerlogger,from the map by itself?
 
body grounds suck, and are only appropriate for stuff like turn signals and tail lights.

Bob
where do we land ground wires in the dash area?i was thinking of running three wires from my neg to the frame,body,and block.would that pretty much cover it?
 
I did both those things when sorting out the wiring in my car, I ran a fresh wire from the map to the Pl (previous owner jacked the wire all up installing the alky kit) and I ran a big ass ground wire (like 8g I believe) from the back of the pass cyl head to the bolt by the e brake pedal where all my add on accessory grounds were. Not sure if this is accepted turbo buick practice but I figure that's as good as grounding a bunch of small items right to the block.
 
i ran a new ground from the wire on the map,cut it and ran both ends the one inside the harness and to the map,to the battery directly.
so i went to the tracks yesterday,ran8 or 9 times started it and shut it off at least twenty times since the ground wire and nock on wood no problems.im going to take it on a weekend trip,hundred miles each way plus driving around.borrowed a brand new3bar,just in case. i will let you guys know on sunday..................
 
You have to realize that when running SD2 the map signal is very important to make the car run and any fart in the ground system will show up in the running . Sounds like you are on the right track .
 
i ran a new ground from the wire on the map,cut it and ran both ends the one inside the harness and to the map,to the battery directly.
so i went to the tracks yesterday,ran8 or 9 times started it and shut it off at least twenty times since the ground wire and nock on wood no problems.im going to take it on a weekend trip,hundred miles each way plus driving around.borrowed a brand new3bar,just in case. i will let you guys know on sunday..................

got back today and can say she ran great,not one hickup.probably put 300 miles on her.started everytime.never even had to plug in laptop.running with the ac i just charged for first time a few weeks ago,awesome!
i was in outside air temps of 105,in the shade.i shut off the ac during the climb over the mountain.it got upwards of 205 @the most.not bad.
so definitly the ground fixed it.i also put dielectric grease on everything.
thanks everyone.very pleased the way this car runs.
 
so here is the latest.....
after about 800 awesome miles!the car did the no start thing,but only for a few minutes then it started fine.

So as usual i go against my rule of one thing at a time.i pulled my tr6 off the motor and dug into the grounds at the back of the intake.4 rings,7 wires including the 12gauge.i noticed the 2 sets were acceptable,one has a set of black with white stripes,it was not good.the 12gauge wasnt horrible but i resoldered and attached all to the bolt on the intake.nice and snug.all four rings.
started fine didnt drive.

today recieved my new set of tr6 black wires installed with lots of dielectric grease.started fine.


a couple weeks ago i put a timing light on the car and it came up 2degrees retarded,kinda like the driver.

so today after plug wire install ,fixed grounds,i added 1.8degrees of timing via sd2 timing reference adjust.it wont take 2degrees.the idle seemed a bit better with the timing.
went for a drive....it did that stall type of thing couple times caught a log where it drops off .then the check engine light came on...trouble 42...just cruising lightly to see a difference.

so i think the grounds are worse then before,hence the drop off on the powerlogger.
but the code 42 what would that mean on a tr-6?the second log the code came up only on a firm throttle.
i havent found much info on the timing reference thing?
im just kinda messing around here learning a bunch.not a daily driver so i dont get upset when shit dont work,but do enjoy learning what does and doesnt work.
 
i put the timing reference back to zero,just to remove one of the changes.one thing at a time.
went for a ride and it cut out about 3 times,so i think if i can nail down the ground wire i messed with i can solve the cutout no start issue.these are the things that stay working during the shutdown on my powerlogger.
MAP
Fpressure log
VE
IAC
WBAFR
it kinda seems like the powerlogger stays logging but everything else keeps cutting out??
RPM
SPEED
O2
SPARK
ETC all shut off for a split second.
computer ground?
 

Attachments

it looks like the ECM is resetting (rebooting), if you look the stock O2 gets momentarily set to .443 which happens at reset.

im not sure whats causing that though. what version of the sd2 are you running?

Bob
 
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