In addition to the order you just made, you need to also get a hot wire kit for the fuel pump, an adjustable fuel pressure gauge and you'll also want to go to Caspers website and order a fuel PSI gauge. Caspers also carries the hot wire kits, though I think Full Throttle sells them cheaper.
Then as soon as you get your new pump, hotwire and regulator in, you'll want to attach the Caspers gauge on the end of the fuel rail driver side and with the vacuum line OFF of the fuel pressure gauge, manually set your fuel pressure to 43 PSI, then check again...then lock down the jam nut and make sure it's still at 43 PSI. This is what Eric at Turbo Tweak recommends on his chips.
Speaking of chips, if you haven't already, order your Turbo Tweak chip from Eric. They're $85 shipped and Eric custom burns them to your car. You'll need to know what injectors your car has (post a pic here if need be...use photobucket.com to host the pics) as wel, as what turbo, what rear end gear, etc....
Then you want to reinstall that vacuum line you took off and ZIP TIE THAT MOTHER DOWN! Seriously. Enought boost can/will blow it off and if that happens....your engine will run lean and bad things will happen/follow.
Then take the car out for a test drive. Hopefully you have an aftermarket boost gauge in the car - DONT EVEN THINK about using that 21 year old LED Knight Rider tach that's in your dash....YOU NEED an aftermarket boost gauge. Period. Get you an Autometer one and hook it up to the vaccum line that goes to the EGR solenoid, making sure there's no check valves in the way.
Now on the test drive IT'S IMPORTANT that you make sure the fuel PSI goes up 1 PSI for every 1 lb of boost. So in other words, if your gauge is showing 38 PSI on 0 boost, then at 15 lbs it should be showing 53 PSI of fuel. THIS IS IMPORTANT. Otherwise you run the risk of going lean which means engine go boom....if not "how do i replace my headgaskets?"
Now for the rest of your ?'s...
what do i tune with the scan master what do i adjust boost levels timing?
You tune for ZERO knock, you use it to make sure your 02 millivolts read 780-800 at the top of 3rd gear so you don't blow a head gasket or engine. You can use it to change timing and fuel curves, provided you have a Turbo Tweak chip.
are shift kits bad for the transmission and if not lol where sholuld i buy one from and what kind
Depending on what shift kit you get....as a rule of thumb shift kits are good because they eliminate shift overlap on an automatic trans which means the tranny can run cooler and less wear on the clutches, at the expense that you don't mind a little bit of a snappy shift. HOWEVER IT IS IMPORTANT that you get the right kind of shift kit. The B&M ones are known to "half ass" (for a lack of better terms) the trans to make it shift snappier by blocking up accumulator holes and such...NOT what you want in a shift kit. I've heard the same on the Trans Go kits for the 200-4R....but the one Trans Go I had in a TH350 worked great and didn't "half ass" it like the B&M did...the B&M would have sent the trans into early failure mode. One of the vendors here sells a shift kit that everyone swears by, so take their testament for what it's worth.
whats are the advantages of an external waste gate and do i set teh boost level using teh waste gate or buy a manual boost controller? what milimeter waste gate is neccessary if i go that route and weich one is the best bang fot the book im leaning towards teh turbo netics one from full throttle and the hotwire is on back order for 2 months! stock turbo has teh flat flange or the v band would be better ?
This is another Pepsi vs. Coke debate. So I am told the externals are a bit more adjustable and such but either will work, internals are cheaper. FWIW I run an internal WG with an adjustable actuator and I also run a manual boost controller inline.
and should i get a rjc power plate and how does that distribute teh air flow beter
Yes get an RJC plate. It's been said on these cars when under boost, the back cylinders get more air than the fronts which makes the rears run leaner, and YOU DO NOT EVER want the engine to run lean in ANY cylinder. The RJC plate ensures the rears get the same amount of air as the fronts. The end result is the cylinders all get the same air/fuel (providing the injectors are working right) and also means the knock sensor doesn't go off and start retarding timing which takes away power from the engine.
