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just replaced the knock sensor and now the engine wont start!!!! help

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Changed the module she runs perfect !! Now I know the signs of a bad ignition module.

What module did you get? Is the coil pack as old as the module that went out? Those are 2 things i like to replace together at the same time. Just something to think about if you haven't already. For this reason is why i get my parts with a lifetime warranty. Buy once and then i can replace them at no cost,even if i just think something is wrong with a part it gets replaced.
 
I got my module from autozone. everything's been running fine for the first few days now the car sputters again with normal driving. Not sure if the coil is causing this new problem. It was tested as good when I had the module tested. I'm stumped again....
 
I got my module from autozone. everything's been running fine for the first few days now the car sputters again with normal driving. Not sure if the coil is causing this new problem. It was tested as good when I had the module tested. I'm stumped again....

The ignition module from Autozone works good,i've been using one for awhile without any problems.

Do an ohm test on the coil pack. You should get a reading of 11-13k ohms on each pair of coils. I believe the auto parts stores can also test the coil for you.

The only coil pack i have found from the auto parts stores that works well is the BWD brand and sold at Advance Auto Parts and O'Reilly's. Do not use the coil pack from Autozone though.
 
Maybe i missed it but what made you decide to replace the knock sensor? I've owned a few turbo buick's since 1987 and have never had a problem with a knock sensor.

How many miles are on your car? Are you the original owner,has the car always been parked inside a garage or outside in the open.

I think you said you live in Denver, Colo. is that where the car has always been?
 
Maybe i missed it but what made you decide to replace the knock sensor? I've owned a few turbo buick's since 1987 and have never had a problem with a knock sensor.

How many miles are on your car? Are you the original owner,has the car always been parked inside a garage or outside in the open.

I think you said you live in Denver, Colo. is that where the car has always been?
I replace the knock sensor because it wasn't showing any data for the knock. My car has 124,000 miles. I'm the third owner of this We4. As far as I know the owner before me always kept the car in the garage. As for the original owner I not sure ..... The car has been registered in four states. First in Arizona then in Ohio the last owner lived in Oregon now she's in Colorado with me......
 
Here are some questions some several members including myself that has you a questions and you haven't answer them.
1- Why did you fisrt replaced the kbock sensor since the knock sensor don't show data unless you test the knock sensor or if the engine has a reason to give a knock data.
2- When you claimed you torque down the new knock sensor, how did you do it?
3- Did you replace the ignition module from Autozone with another one, and if so how did the engine react?
 
Here are some questions some several members including myself that has you a questions and you haven't answer them.
1- Why did you fisrt replaced the kbock sensor since the knock sensor don't show data unless you test the knock sensor or if the engine has a reason to give a knock data.
2- When you claimed you torque down the new knock sensor, how did you do it?
3- Did you replace the ignition module from Autozone with another one, and if so how did the engine react?
I replaced the knock sensor because after I got a scan master I noticed the car never showed knock even at WOT. One of the other members said to test the knock retard to tap on the block and it should show some degree of knock. So that's why I replaced it
I torqued the sensor with a deep socket to 14 lbs ....like another member advised me.
Yes I did replace the autozone module with O'Reilly's BWD brand and replaced the coil at the same time. The car now runs, cause it wouldn't even start when I put autozone / wells brand in ...brand new! It Now runs very smooth, shifts perfect , its pushing 14lbs of boost "don't know if that's normal for a stocker"? It drives perfect until you turn the car off and turn it back on. Then the ugly side comes out the idle is erratic. When you lightly press the gas it sputters and falls under boost.
 
Thanks for the updated info
You claimed the engine start up great, runs great, and great boost (providing you're using premium octane).
Now, after you shut down and restart the engine again, can you post the complete Scanmaster # so the board members can see and maybe try to troubleshoot from the #'s on why the engine runs erratic.
 
OK..... Just found out Napa sold me the wrong wires for a 3.8 w/o turbo. So I'm gonna pull the plugs and check them . I'll post the scan master # with The car running good and then post them after the car acts up. Thanks
 
Just put everything back together with new ac plugs and wires she runs perfect now .... New problem now the red brake light came on ....... The problems never end, lol. Thanks for all your help - everyone on the board !!!
 
So what you're saying is now that you start the car, drive the car and after the engine is warm up, you shut down and then start the engine again it runs great? If so did it's great that you found the problem.
Your problem now is the red brake light come on when your press the brake, or comes on without pressing the brake?
If you still have the PowerMaster brake system then it might be the brake accumulator bowl not holding pressure.
Go to the Brakes, Suspensions, Tires & Wheels section and start reading on the PowerMaster system and if you need to replace the accumulator bowl then read this: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/accumulator.html
 
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