Keeping the TTA Cool

[BradWE4]

I have verified with a thermal sensor, a scan tool and my autometer gauge. The stock gauge is off by quite a bit, it reads lower than actual. All three show with in 2 degrees. I have replaced all the sensors checked all of the wiring. I have the aftermarket fans hot wired for maximum efficiency. The water pump is from GM basically new, and I could believe one radiator being bad But I have tried 3 aluminum radiators from be-cool, CAS, and a custom that is for a big block swap into the third gen. All even the bigblock monster (which required "cutting" to get in) have had just about the same results.

 

[mark b]

Grapsing at straws now..... you could try the thermostat trick - drill a very small hole in it to help eliminate any steam pockets being developed in the system.

Curiosity - when you changed all the cooling items, did you powerflush the block from several directions?

 

[1badTTA]

Just throwing this in to the confusion, do what you want.

Have you tried a different chip? How is the O2 sensor?
Is the EGR working?

Sounds like the problem isn't in the cooling system. My guess would be that it's running lean or the EGR is malfunctioning.

 

[BradWE4]

I have tried two different chips one is reds which runs very rich the other is a PTE chip with a conservative tune. The oxygen sensor is a heated one brand new. Just to be sure switched a known good one out of my Turbo-T. The EGR is milled out so the egr system does not really work.

 

[BradWE4]

Ordered one of evans Overdrive pulleys should be here tomorrow (thanks mark b for the link). I am starting to think that the problem is the radiators. With the becool and the CAS radiators I still had the stock fan setup on the car and the one that I have in currently is a 2 row with 1" tubes. I thought that they were 1.25" tubes but I was mistaken. Could this be the problem? I am thinking of trying the cas again (still have it) that had worked better than the Becool. Any thoughts?

 

[mark b]

In the GNTTYPE archives is a good technical post by Tony DeQuick on the fins vs. tube size business, especially for street driven cars. It refutes the idea that wide radiators, like 4 cores are the best app for a street driven car. But he also talked about your question, because tube size affects velocity moving through the tube.

I'll try to find it later, or look at www.gnttype.org and the "archives search" pulldown under member services.

 

[skturbo]

Brad, I have built many TTAs I'am sure I can help with your problem. It would be better if you called me.856-881-3232 or email me your number and I will call you.

Thanks, Steve Kaminski

 

[mark b]

Steve - if you do find problems and solutions, it would be great to post back for the archives if/when others have this problem. Unless of course you consider it Intellectual Property.... I know about that and respect it.

 

[skturbo]

I would always post the correction to the problem. It is just easer for me to talk to someone on the phone when you run into something like this. You guys have done a great job with this site. But sometimes someone can miss the slightest thing and go down the wrong road tying to fix the car, waisting time. It is great to read these posts and see people helping each other out and showing so much interest in these Pontiacs and Buicks. If people cant maintain the cars and have fun with them they will disappear.

Steve K.

 

[BradWE4]

Thanks Steve I will definitely be giving you a call this week. What time is a good time to give you a call?
Thanks, Brad Johnson