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knock...now what?

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SS_Sean

Pro Bracket
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Messages
5,146
I installed the razor's alky kit last week and filled it with denatured alcohol from my local Rhoda paint supply (I'm still working on a meth source). I took the car out and started getting into it and saw 0.7* of knock at ten pounds of boost. I got back out of it and haven't driven the car since. Now what? Don't want the detonation monster to get me. Thanks.
 
Tell us more. What chip? Timing? Was the green light lit? Was it red? What is your turn on point? Was the alky kit primed? What were your o2's?

Kind of hard to pinpoint a problem with a general statement.

Jason
 
TT 92/alky chip with the preset numbers still in the chip. I'm not sure what light you're talking about? The light on the Control head? The turn-on is what came with the alky kit, I didn't change anything. Julio said not to until I've got initial tuning done...which I'm trying to do. o2's were in the 800's range though I did not pick up the exact number. I did not get to wide open throttle because I saw the 0.7* knock showing and backed out of it, so I had nothing in scanmaster memory to recall....02's were in the 800's though. I was in 3rd gear on the shifter, but was in second gear when I was rolling into the throttle and saw the detonation...
 
if you're using Razor's kit then it came with at least 2 lights... a low level light, a pump on/full pressure light and possibly a light to reference voltage to the pump if its a GN kit. the pump on/pressure light starts red and then turns green when the pump is at full pressure. should go red at about 5 psi and green around 10 or so depending on where you have the blue main control knob at. his instructions have details on initial tuning...

Also, I wouldnt be worried about .7* knock... once you get above 2 or 3 then I would start to increase the alky.
 
I'm going to have to double check but I thought the LED light starts green then goes to red. I will take a ride and double check on that.

As a general rule of thumb I ignore knock in 1st and 2nd gears. Watch for knock when shifting into and through third at WOT. Otherwise it's false.
 
I'm going to have to double check but I thought the LED light starts green then goes to red. I will take a ride and double check on that.

As a general rule of thumb I ignore knock in 1st and 2nd gears. Watch for knock when shifting into and through third at WOT. Otherwise it's false.

LED goes from red to green
 
At least someone is on the ball. ;)

Just got back from a ride. LOL

unix_punk and Boost231 are right. ;)

i try to be. hell im suprised i remember things like that considering my car sits most the time :(
 
when i start the car the remote control (with the knob and test button) is always red. I ran the car up to 10psi, and then 15psi and it didn't change colors. The injection light did come on in the dash at around 5psi.

When I hit the test button the car bogs and almost wants to die at idle.
 
If the car bogs when you press the test button then you're at least getting alky flow so that's a good sign.

If the little light never changes from red to green then something isn't right, what number do you have the dial turned to on the controller?
 
a couple thoughts.....if your 36lb.injectors are original, they may be tired and even if new,they may be at the end of their duty cycle if your trying to run boost up to 22-25 range ,which with alky i assume you may be?.the red light should be on aliitle before the 15 mark unless your target boost is 17-18 range. i think 36lb.inj. are good for around 420HP. also,its much safer to,in my limited opinion,to spray too much alky and work your way back down. its all relative to your desired boost needs.julio may reem me for this but i would suggest setting your boost to around 20lbs,your initial at about 1oclock and gain (big knob on controler)at about 6 and let er rip. .7 is not a worry..may have to drive through it to be sure,once if 2nd & 3rd be more aware of the KR.
 
If you're looking at the light on the controller then you're wasting your time.

That light NEVER changes.

The light we're all talking about is the 'turn-on' light that is a led that Julio recommends to install by your boost gauge. It's the orange and brown wires from the PAC box should connect with the turn on led that is orange and brown wires also.

Thats the light that we are talking about. If the light isnt turning red once you get to 5 lbs, it's 1. you dont have the correct voltage to your 3 bar map sensor, or 2. you have a bad 3 bar map sensor. The second one happened to me and i was getting very frustrated, but Julio sent me a new one.

-Adam
 
Ah, that light. Ok. I'll make sure I look at that light the next time I spool up. As far as the gain knob it's set at where it came to me, I think it's at 4.5.
 
i bet its the injectors.i got a motor with ported heads only.cpt66 turbo set on 17lbs with alky and tt chip.i have the timing way down or mine knocks 43.5 # injectors are at 100 percent if i run the timing and fuel up were they need to be so yours are proably too small.and mines a dual nozzel devils own kit. you got a power logger ?if not get one then you can see the duty cycle and stuff
 
Ah, that light. Ok. I'll make sure I look at that light the next time I spool up. As far as the gain knob it's set at where it came to me, I think it's at 4.5.

Put the knob on 8 and retry... The lower the knob the greater the delay in the LED changing colors. Not saying you leave the knob on 8.. it may only need to be at 5 or 6.. but the lower the knob the less responsive the alky system will be.

You can always call.. trying to explain things over keyboards is time comsuming and difficult.
 
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