Hey guys, I'm new to the GN world and need some help. This is a long post, but please bear with me.
At WOT I'm getting some knock retard (up to 10) and my O2mV are going low (680.) I also have an LC-1 WB that reads a little lean (~13.0) at WOT also. The guy I bought the car from pretty much bought the car as I have it as far as turbo (TB03 60mm), 3"DP, Delphi 50# injectors, SMC round tank 2-nozzle alky injection, MAF Translator and 3.5" LS1 MAF, Kenny Belle front mount IC, Scanmaster 2.1, and installed is a chip of UNKNOWN origin. The only marking on it is a sticker that says "To the MAX" on it.
He did, however, completely rebuild the engine, including forged crank and pistons. He swapped the cam out for a hydraulic roller Comp cam. He says he can't remember the specs on it, but it came from Jegs a couple years ago and was the milder of the two hyd roller cams available at the time. He also said it was milder than what was in the car, but for whatever reason wanted the hyd roller.
I am about to start checking fuel pressures, Scanmaster values at idle/WOT (although it scares me since I'm reading lean and knock.) The car is running a manual "bleeder" style boost controller and I'm getting around 18# of boost.
My first question is...Does changing the cam make a huge difference in the tune? From what I've read about ordering chips, you MUST specify the cam (206/206, 212/212, etc) in order to get the tune right. Could this be a cause for the conditions I'm seeing? I feel like with alky and 50# injectors, I should have enough fuel to run 18# of boost. Like I said, I'm going to check fuel pressure, etc but want to make sure I'm not going to be chasing my tail if the chip's tune is WAY off.
Also, if anyone can help with the cam identification, that would be great. He says he knows int/exh were equal and was pretty sure it was 206/206, but I want to make sure before I go and order another chip. Plan on upgrading to turbotweak soon anyway.
Thanks for reading through and for any help you can provide.
At WOT I'm getting some knock retard (up to 10) and my O2mV are going low (680.) I also have an LC-1 WB that reads a little lean (~13.0) at WOT also. The guy I bought the car from pretty much bought the car as I have it as far as turbo (TB03 60mm), 3"DP, Delphi 50# injectors, SMC round tank 2-nozzle alky injection, MAF Translator and 3.5" LS1 MAF, Kenny Belle front mount IC, Scanmaster 2.1, and installed is a chip of UNKNOWN origin. The only marking on it is a sticker that says "To the MAX" on it.
He did, however, completely rebuild the engine, including forged crank and pistons. He swapped the cam out for a hydraulic roller Comp cam. He says he can't remember the specs on it, but it came from Jegs a couple years ago and was the milder of the two hyd roller cams available at the time. He also said it was milder than what was in the car, but for whatever reason wanted the hyd roller.
I am about to start checking fuel pressures, Scanmaster values at idle/WOT (although it scares me since I'm reading lean and knock.) The car is running a manual "bleeder" style boost controller and I'm getting around 18# of boost.
My first question is...Does changing the cam make a huge difference in the tune? From what I've read about ordering chips, you MUST specify the cam (206/206, 212/212, etc) in order to get the tune right. Could this be a cause for the conditions I'm seeing? I feel like with alky and 50# injectors, I should have enough fuel to run 18# of boost. Like I said, I'm going to check fuel pressure, etc but want to make sure I'm not going to be chasing my tail if the chip's tune is WAY off.
Also, if anyone can help with the cam identification, that would be great. He says he knows int/exh were equal and was pretty sure it was 206/206, but I want to make sure before I go and order another chip. Plan on upgrading to turbotweak soon anyway.
Thanks for reading through and for any help you can provide.