Laquer cracks in paint

[Steve V]

I just got the GN painted in Feb. I talked to the body shop before they even touched the car about the cracks on the hood,roof,header panel and tops of fenders. They said it didn't need to be stripped but they would take care of all of it . So car looks great,they did and awesome job. Got pics taken of every stage,but...after a few weeks of baking in the sun the cracks are ever so slightly reappearing in the hood. You have to look under flouresent lights to see,but it's there. Also on the sides you can see where the body side molding was. Shop say the sides will buff out,not sure about the hood,may need a repaint. What do you guys think? This will only get worse as the paint ages?

 

[URSPANKED]

I've heard that before, but it MUST be stripped completely, otherwise they will keep coming back to haunt you.

 

[Red Regal T]

They out and out lied to you up front. There is no way cracked paint doesn't need to be stripped to bare metal or it comes back in no time. If it's just the hood or trunk, not much trouble just to do these parts, but if you had cracking on the roof, well, I don't have to tell ya. I can't understand why a shop wouldn't want to make a bigger job. If the paint was cracked, it needed to be stripped. No ifs, ands, or buts.

 

[Steve V]

That's what I figured. Looks like my car will be getting repainted!!!
Or I may see them in court.

 

[Red Regal T]

That's more so-called experts, not only giving bad information, but following through and doing a half ass job. It's common knowledge, to those who paint, that you can't paint over cracked paint because it comes back after a couple months if not sooner.

Best way to go is to get your money back. I would'nt let them paint my kid's tricycle.

 

[gordyzx9r]

When I took my car in to be repainted, I was told it had to be completely stripped down due to the lacqeur.

 

[JeffG]

Does it have to be down to the metal? Can't the stock checked paint be removed down to the the factory primer/sealer and ensure the check won't return?

Thx,

 

[Red Regal T]

NO WAY!

 

[gbsean]

Being in the Auto Body Industry fo over 20 years factory applied laquer paint can be sanded down to the factory primer. As long as you use a 2K primer surfacer or an epoxy primer on top of the factory prime you should not see any scratch's come back. Laquer paint when applied is only about 15-20% solids the rest is solvent which over time evaporates. Even new technology paint is still only about 45% solids and a high solids clear about 55%. the paint film fill's the cracks and then as the solvent evaporates (even if baked) the paint drops into the cracks and the crazing reapears. Re-did my 87 8 years ago over factory prime with Glasurit 285-22 primer and 22-line paint with HS hardener can has 47,000 miles on it since paint job and it still shines and is a s smooth as the day it came out of the booth.

 

[Red Regal T]

Maybe you were lucky. What's the point in taking the chance. It's not much more work to go to bare metal. Sounds like bad advice to take the chance. If you're painting your car and choose to cut this corner, as many bodyshops might, you've been warned.

 

[gbsean]

it is like building a house...you need a good foundation because no matter how well you frame it if the foundation fails so will the house. Some Body shops just wet sand with 600 or Da with 320 before they paint and do not remove ALL the factory laquer this is where the problems start. The factory primer is an excellent foundation it allready has etched into the sheet metal. The more the Body Shop has to labor at something the more $$$$ it will cost. Stripping a car is very time consuming and messy. The stripper never removes all the paint. All the trim and plastic parts need to be removed including the side windows and door moldings etc...that all takes time and time=$$$$ A body Shop can do about 10-15 collision jobs in the time it takes to prep and strip a car. I agree with you the Foundation is important but if it is strong and without defects it will work fine.

 

[Steve V]

yeah,my car is a classic example,not striped just sanded and everything has reappeared. Insist and be prepared to pay lots of $$$ but it's only money---GET IT STRIPPED!!!!

 

[Drop Top]

Look around in your area for a PLASTIC Media Blasting place. This will remove all paint down to the metal without hurting the body,chrome or glass. I had a Plastic Media bussness for over 10 years that I worked into my restoration bussness. Never did I have any problems with it. I sold the bussness because I don't have the time or room anymore to do them both. But its still in town and I still use it for stripping all the cars that I restore.

On another note. I agree in a case where you have a laquer check problem it is a safe bet to remove everything all the way down. But in many cases its hard to beat the factory primer. Its put on by electrolisis and its a very high grade of primer that can't be matched by any avarage body shop. Remember those GM trucks form the late 80s to the early 90s? The factory recomended to remove the paint down to the primer. This can be achevied with Plastic Media. I did many jobs for the local Chevy dealership.

With an average job costing around $500 to remove your paint and you don't have to do all that work and you get it back in one day. How can you go wrong. Those of you that have striped a car already know how much work it is.

Another thing that will work is Soda Blasting. I don't like it as well but if its in your area check it out also.