LC2 specific engine pull plate.

[Project TNX]

Cheap to make, excellent market since we are quite the shadetree mechanics, dare I say the highest percentage of self tuners out there for the owner:car ratio, and would make the removal and installation a lot easier. People would probably buy one just to have around.

**I think I am onto something here, I don't know, you guys tell me.

 

[aminga]

Stupid question: Do you want to pull the engine by the manifold bolts. Seems to me with an aluminum intake it would be easy to strip those out.

But I've never pulled an LC2

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Here's a NEAT piece! Could be adapted to the plenum bolt pattern, or maybe they would make them for the v-sicks??
Myk's Tools, Home of the ENGINE HOIST " PIVOT PLATE"

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My 528 HEMI..

Stupid question: Do you want to pull the engine by the manifold bolts. Seems to me with an aluminum intake it would be easy to strip those out.

But I've never pulled an LC2

came with a MOPAR installed lift plate, bolted to a 4bbl manifold. The engine weighed 582# when I took it out of the crate.
I think 1 of the important items to address, is that the lift bolts are tight...

 

[Project TNX]

Stupid question: Do you want to pull the engine by the manifold bolts. Seems to me with an aluminum intake it would be easy to strip those out.

But I've never pulled an LC2

Yeah, but I think if you have it tightened down firm, and don't go yanking the hell out of the engine that it would be sound. It's how most SBC guy I know pull theirs. The plate spreads the weight out, and the intake manifold is mated to the block nice and sound, I don't foresee the weight being a problem.


The factory eyelet on the manifold, held on by only one bolt, stinks. It cause the engine to come out c*ck eyed. Some people use a few chains wrapped onto the header studs, but I don;t want that stress on my header studs.


[

 

[ijames]

The factory eyelet on the manifold, held on by only one bolt, stinks. It cause the engine to come out c*ck eyed. Some people use a few chains wrapped onto the header studs, but I don;t want that stress on my header studs.


[

There's a hole cast into the back of the block right next to the knock sensor, on the driver's side. I'm sure it's what GM used to lift the block during the machining and assembly process. We always hook one end of the chain there and the other on the factory eyelet at the front on the passenger side, then hook that chain above the plenum with the cherry picker. Don't even need to take the coilpack/module out usually. Keep all the chains as short as possible and you don't need to disturb the hood. Can't even imagine trying it with just the front eyelet!

 

[Project TNX]

There's a hole cast into the back of the block right next to the knock sensor, on the driver's side. I'm sure it's what GM used to lift the block during the machining and assembly process. We always hook one end of the chain there and the other on the factory eyelet at the front on the passenger side, then hook that chain above the plenum with the cherry picker. Don't even need to take the coilpack/module out usually. Keep all the chains as short as possible and you don't need to disturb the hood. Can't even imagine trying it with just the front eyelet!

I pulled my 84 engine out with just that eyelet (LOL), but to my credit, I really don't care about the engine I pulled. I am parting it out soon and what doesn't sell is going to the scrap yard.


Of course with my new engine, I will be meticulous in how she goes in, no corner cutting.

 

[white88montess]

Cheap to make, excellent market since we are quite the shadetree mechanics, dare I say the highest percentage of self tuners out there for the owner:car ratio, and would make the removal and installation a lot easier. People would probably buy one just to have around.

**I think I am onto something here, I don't know, you guys tell me.

it sounds gr8 to me honestly....i think someone should def make these

 

[turbotman]

John's Performance already sold this type of pull plate...........unfortunately there was not enough interest in them, and now have be discontinued. I found this out when I tried to order one last month.

 

[chrisgarrett]

I used the one from John's a few years ago. Even though it was tightened down, two of the bolt holes were damaged and had to be helicoiled. I have pulled many engines, and have found that a bolt in each of the four cylinder head corners and a leveler works best.

 

[gnxtc2]

I use a web sling under the intake. My sling slings length is 3 feet but a 2 footer would be better. I think HR Parts and Stuff sells the 2 foot one. By using the sling, there is no chance of scratching the paint. Also you can assemble the whole motor while on the stand and drop it in.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[ijames]

That plate looks like something Race Jace could make by just not cutting out the air holes in his power plate, and adding the eyebolt . If someone really wanted one, give hiim a call.

 

[Project TNX]

John's Performance already sold this type of pull plate...........unfortunately there was not enough interest in them, and now have be discontinued. I found this out when I tried to order one last month.

That would have come in handy, but I'm going old skool on my engine drop, I don't want to waste the time of making my own plate so I am slinging it in there.

I also messed my back up pretty good deadlifting my engine this week. I bought the crappy tripod engine holder, a mistake I will never make again. The extra $40.00 for a good engine stand would have been worth it. Now I know, and knowing is half the battle.