All of the pan bolts are on the perimeter of the case (none come in contact with the oil), and the only "blind" hole is the furthest one to the back center by the trans mount, the rest are open. From what you described, I am pretty sure you were right with your original idea of the trans dipstick tube "O-ring" (it's probably not called that, but you get it). I've seen them torn when people get lazy installing them and leave the tube half in. Same exact leak. Could also be a cracked TV cable body (just in front of the dipstick), because people get all "willy nilly" tightening down that 10mm bolt onto plastic. That also has a similar seal that rarely leaks, but is sometimes missing because it came out with the cable. The harness, shaft seals, cooling lines and pan leaks would be there all the time in my humble opinion. Hope this helps.
Hmmm. I see.
I will have to inspect everything thoroughly.
The Trans is a non lock up.
I bought it on here a few years ago as a used Brian Hofers built transmission.
After speaking with the seller for a while I was comfortable with the purchase.
In 3 years or so it hasn’t had many miles put on. 500 to 1000 tops. Other issues were at play.
I was having an issue with a severe rattling noise recently and thought i had a bad deal.
It ended up being the down pipe hitting a couple of spots. I finally found this out yesterday.
I had also ordered a new Dusty Bradford non lock up converter for the install.
After the initial install two or three years ago, the car hasn’t been driven much since then,
The machine work on the two billet main crank caps/bearings was junk and wrecked everything.
The Spinning, Rattling, Banging noise was there from the go and that evidence led to make me believe the motor issue caused the noise.
It didn’t. So then the trans and converter were the next suspects.
From my experience, when you’re building a motor, you either use a top of the line engine builder experienced in these motors like RPE or equivalent and spent the 5 to 10 k or get a factory un touched short block. Any other option is a recipe for disaster. My two cents.
The top end isn’t that difficult to put together if you’re mechanically inclined, have patients, do a lot of research and work with methodic perfection.
Like I try to.
I even questioned Dusty Bradford on the issue thinking it was the converter and he spend some time on the phone with me answering every question as i was positive the converter was the problem. What a great guy.
I was wrong! But a mind tends to wander during these problems.
DUSTY, I APOLOGIZE FOR ANY INCONVENIENCE OR GRIEF I MAY HAVE CAUSED YOU.
YOU SOLD ME A GOOD CONVERTER! Thank you.
I even emailed David Husek about my issue to get his thoughts and possibly purchasing one of his transmissions.
He literally called a few minutes after the email, While he was driving, Is that legal in your state?, and spent quite some time on the phone with me and answered all my question and gave me advise on my problem. He is another superb vendor on here. I would not hesitate getting a trans from him in the future.
This trans has always shifted great and tight.
After what I’ve been thru in the last 10 years I’m grateful the motor and trans are sound at this point.
Now it’s the minor issues that i have to deal with. Like we all do. Things couldn’t be better.
What is the proper way to bolt up and seal, with gaskets, teflon tape and O rings, the 2 trans cooler lines, TV cable and dipstick tube?
thanks in advance.
D
. Lock up is worth a couple pounds of boost on the big end, and I knocked down 26 MPG highway (had a C6 shadow boxing me that day), but the non lock up worked good even w/ a ton of miles on it.
