You can type here any text you want

lifter tick equals wiped cam lobes

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

turbowrenchhead

Drive like you stole it!
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
854
I had alot of metal in my oil. I pulled my drivers valve cover to find that two of the rockers are hardly being lifted up. It has to be wiped cam lobes because of all the metal shaveings. Are the shaveing going to severly affect my bearings. Also why do cam lobes wipe. I bought an eastern cam with there lifters and valve springs and offset vavle keepers. So why did my cam lobes diappear?
 
that sucks ...:(

but if somebody figured out how to be sure no cams would wipe out they would definitly be rich quick.
 
Would it be wrong to expect eastern performance to replace the cam? There are only 4000 miles on it and 8 months old. If they don't stand behind there cam anyone have other suggestions. Someone who makes a split cam with more exhaust lift and duration.
 
nobody will stand behind a wiped lobe.

im using speedpro cams they are split cams but the biggest in the catolog is a 204/214 cam and i havent tried it out yet its in my motor which is in my car but wont be fired up till later next week after i get the rest of my parts first of the week.

i was running speedpro's 194/204 cam in my hotair motor it works killer and i checked all lobes when i pulled the motor 2 weeks ago and all is well.

as for lube i build alot of motors and i prefer the coastal engine assembly lube from autozone and i have tryed lots of different lubes and still like this one the best i now use it on all my engine builds. also its clear to ease seeing if it gets contaminated with dirt or any other object.

that is the lube i use on the cam and lifters too and works great.
you do have to ask for it at the counter at least here you do.


later....RED
 
I used the the pre-lube that was supplied with the cam. I called eastern today and they said to send it in and they will have it anilized. I'm sure that they will tell me something that will get them out of buying a new one. If they do. I am not going to buy from them again. One of my friends found a cam in PAW with a 214-226 duration for 50 bucks. Looks like that might be a possiable buy. I will have to see what eastern says first.
 
these motors are (in)famous for wiping cam lobes. I doubt you'll get eastern to be of much help because warrantees on high performance car parts don't exist! If they analyze the cam & lifters and find the material was faulty, you may get lucky...

As for the metal in the oil, hopefully your filter was flowing well enough to catch what came thru.

I'm curious--was one (or both) lobes for the #3 cylinder?
 
I forgot to mention that the cam was broke in properly. I ran the engine at 2500 rpm for 15 minutes. I only pulled the drivers side valve cover so far. But #1 cylinder intake lobe and #3 exhaust lobe are doing almost nothing. Is there a problem with #3 lobes, is it the way the block is designed. Maybe not enough oiling?
 
It just seems that IF these engines wipe a lobe, the #3 is always involved! I'm not all that knowledgable about this, but I believe there is a lifter-to-lobe alignment problem with #3, and oiling is probably a factor. Others who know more about this, please chime in!
 
I pulled my stock engine after overheating it and spinning a rod bearing, and among other things, one cyl #3 lobe was completely rounded out. Don't know much more than that because I haven't rebuild the thing yet, I just put in a new engine.

Dave
 
I pulled the cam out tonight and the two lobes are completly gone. I don't see an alignment problem. The cam didn't walk at all. The lifters that were on them lobes were extremly incaved. The one thing I don't understand is that the timing chain was very loose. It had about 10 miles on it. Why is it so worn?
 
You probably won't "see" the alignment problem...what I've heard is that some of the lifters are too "centered" over the lobes. They need to be slightly OFF-center so that the lobe will spin the lifter! If the lifter doesn't spin, then it and the lobe just chew each other up! I'm not sure if the problem is how the cam is made or if the lifter bores are out of whack. Guess that's why cam break-in is so critical with these engines. I've also been told that new cams should be broken in with OLD valve springs if possible...

(notice I've "heard" and "been told" a LOT of stuff, my turn at dealing personally with this problem will be coming soon!)

As for your timing chain--what type of chain? Stock type or roller? If it's stock, what condition is your chain adjuster in? Either way, grinding down the lifters & lobes probably puts quite a bit of stress on the chain!
 
If you spend $50 on a cheap cam from PAW, expect to be back in your motor soon. And expect to spend another $500 fixing the damage. Besides the fact their shelf cam will run like crap in your car. Call Iskenderain, Crower, Crane, or Reed, and get a real quality camn custom ground for your car. Get the rest of the top quality parts to do the job right, and fix the problem.

Use a premium molydisulfide paste for your break in lube, making sure to rub it into the lobes but not coat them with an excess (too much moly plugs the filter) and also only apply moly lube to the BOTTOM of the lifter, DO NOT GET ANY ON THE SIDES of the lifter. Make sure that your valve springs have less than 80 pounds seat pressure, and less than 250 pounds open pressure (YES, this does mean you'll be changing or shimming your springs AFTER you break in the cam at 2500+ RPM for 30+ minutes). Use straight 50W racing oil to break in the cam, and make a prelube tool to prime the entire oiling system, making sure you have oil in EVERY rocker arm before you start the engine. After the break in use the quality and viscocity oil of your choice.

I had a friend once who made the same mistake you are thinking about. He lost the first cam in his engine, and then began to buy cheap parts and take short cuts, no matter what we told him or how we tried to help him. Three engines and $2500 later he sold the car for $500, and never touched a hot rod of any kind again. Don't do that to yourself or your car.
Alan
 
I thought I bought a quaility cam. I was refered by Lee Thompson to buy this cam. I bought there cam and lifters and there vavle springs that went with the cam. They are 90 # springs. This is what they recommended. I had a cheap summit cam in this motor the previous 6000 miles ago and that cam was just fine when I pulled out to go with the bigger cam.
I don't think I have ever seen a straight 50 weight racing oil but again I wasn't looking. Where do you get this stuff from? Isn't the lube that they supply with the cam good enough for break in?
Also the timing chain was just a stock steel replacement. I will replace it with a double roller. Any suggestions where to get it from?
 
Originally posted by turbowrenchhead
I thought I bought a quaility cam. I was refered by Lee Thompson to buy this cam. I bought there cam and lifters and there vavle springs that went with the cam. They are 90 # springs. This is what they recommended. I had a cheap summit cam in this motor the previous 6000 miles ago and that cam was just fine when I pulled out to go with the bigger cam.
I don't think I have ever seen a straight 50 weight racing oil but again I wasn't looking. Where do you get this stuff from? Isn't the lube that they supply with the cam good enough for break in?
Also the timing chain was just a stock steel replacement. I will replace it with a double roller. Any suggestions where to get it from?

I've never used those cams, but Lee does know what he is talking about. As far as quality goes, I was not referring to the cam that just went down, I was referring to a $50 PAW cam. You do not always get what you pay for, but you almost never get what you do not pay for.

Let me say this, loud and clear, and I hope EVERYONE will read this. No manufacturer of camshafts is immune to lobe loss on flat tappet cams. Yes, some are worse than others, but EVERYONE loses lobes occasionally. If they tell you otherwise, they are liars. On the other hand, when I follow my normal break in procedure to the letter, I don't lose cams, with one exception. That's one out of a couple hundred in the last few years. However, when the customer demands a deviation from my normal break in procedure, loss rates climb rapidly.

Are you sure, absolutely positive, that the springs were set up with 90# seat pressure? I've seen springs set too short (higher pressure) dozens of times. Now, like I said, I use an old set of used springs to break in cams now, for just that reason. Especially on Buicks. Excessive spring pressure is a major cause of lost lobes, especially in the Buick.

I do not know what lube was supplied with your cam, all I can tell you is what I use myself. I use Mr. Moly assembly lube, and I also use their break in additive. As far as straight 50W oil, Autozone carries Valvoline, at least here they do.

Either the Cloyes Tru-Roller or the Rollmaster will be fine as far as timing sets go.

A couple of us are going to talk with three or four major cam grinders to try to get them to produce some dedicated Buick turbo cams as stock items in order to get better cams for a lower price available. We are also looking at having a flat tappet cam made available with a rifle drilled core and metering orifices on the lobes. Using this cam, and or lobe saver lifters will absolutely DEMAND a fully blueprinted oiling system with a high volume pump and a large high flow filter. But, it may allow more aggressive cams to survive, and it may also allow some who have blocks known to eat cams to run a flat tappet.

Do not expect this to happen this week, and do not expect it to be cheap. The cam itself will likely cost double the normal flat tappet cam, due to the machine work involved. It could however provide a viable lower cost alternative to billet roller cams. The only increase in cost will be the cam itself, unless you buy lobe saver lifters.

I still think that the billet roller is the only way to go, but it is just too expensive for some, and I do understand that.

Alan
 
Ok what are lobe saver lifters? Your not referring to roller lifters are you? Is it possiable to run roller lifters with a flat tappet cam? I bought the springs from eastern along with offset vavle keepers. They said there springs are very accutate. I did not test them myself because I don't have the equipment to do it. I am only going on what they told me.
 
Crower makes a set of lifters that have a machined flat on the side to supply metered oil to the contact point between the lifter and the cam lobe.

No, you can't really run roller lifters on a flat tappet cam. As the infamous budget roller cam fiasco taught many people, you cannot run bearing steel (roller lifter rollers are made of bearing steel) against cast proferal iron (what flat tappet and cast billet cams are made of).

I don't think it is possible to just install a set of springs and a set of offset keepers and be sure of the spring pressure. Take the heads off the engine, and take them to a shop you can trust. Have them set the pressure on the new springs and set them aside, so you can install them after you break in your next new cam. Then have them install a set of worn out springs with about 60 or 70 pounds of pressure on the heads to break in the cam with. Trust me, it works, and it's worth the time, effort and money.
Alan
 
Back
Top