Lockup or Nonlockup Converter

MRP78

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2008
I've read so much information and different opinions on here and the internet but haven't come across a basic explanation yet. I would like to understand the purpose of a lockup converter as opposed to a non lockup. What's the point of each? Is one better than the other and why? Is one more for racing and the other better for longevity and economy? I am looking for a basic understanding but haven't been able to find it yet with the searches I have done.
 
The turbo Regals came from the factory with a lockup type converter primarily for fuel mileage. In the early years, it was discovered that manually locking the converter at the dragstrip by use of a switch gave the cars more MPH. The nonlock type converters are smaller and lighter and gave quicker turbo spoolup. I've used 2 of them in different cars and they gave me better ET's at the track but my MPH went down (when switching from a stock converter). They build more heat though and the extra RPM's will sometimes effect exhaust noise inside the car while at cruising speeds. You will get different opinions on which is best of course. I could make an argument either way. The cars with nonlockup I've had were a blast to drive.
 
It you're gonna be at the track pounding your junk on a regular basis...then I'd recommend a NL. If you're only gonna make the occasional trip to the track...then a LU would be fine...and make sure you either go with a 9/11 or a Vigilante multidisc.
 
I gotta go back to work Wednesday...and then they`re gonna have to learn how to use the search function.:D


well winter is officially here.. Have about 6"s of snow on the ground and the Mazda is on the lift snoozing :p
 
What if the converter is a triple disk lu carbon fiber clutch with billet cover built for lu @ 650rwhp? Will the lock up function run quicker times at the track locking top of 2nd?
 
What if the converter is a triple disk lu carbon fiber clutch with billet cover built for lu @ 650rwhp? Will the lock up function run quicker times at the track locking top of 2nd?

Take it to the track and make a run with it unlocked. Make another run with it locked. You'll have your answer.
 
well winter is officially here.. Have about 6"s of snow on the ground and the Mazda is on the lift snoozing :p

Dan and I managed to get the valve springs swapped out...and get the drag shocks installed on my piece of junk last week while I was off before the snow got here. Was getting valve float...so we went to heavier springs.:)
 
come on do some more searching. This is beat to death constantly :rolleyes:

There is so much detailed info on it and all kinds of different opinions. I read through 10 plus pages of posts before posting maybe I should have spent a few more hours reading through 20, 30 or more pages of old posts just to find a simple answer that someone knows and could provide within a few minutes. I saw in one thread where you had posted up your frustration on this before.

If this topic is beat to death constantly then people may be having a hard time finding the answers they are looking for despite doing a search. Something may be left unresolved or very hard to find despite a conscientious effort. Then again some people are just lazy so I understand your frustration at the same time. Please try to have a little more empathy for people that don't know the answers and I'll try to be more thorough in my future searches for information. :D

Most of what I read is mostly related to track use where locking it up will improve ETs. What about regular driving. Under what speeds or conditions should it be locked up and when does it not matter or when should it not be locked up? Is there a point to locking it up in regular driving other than fuel economy advantage?
 
If you wanna use a LU convertor at the track...and if you're using Erics chip...then you can get him to lock the convertor at a given MPH through his chip...or you can lock it yourself for racing with a simple switch. The ECM will lock the convertor under normal driving conditions. If you're gonna use a LU convertor at the track then I'd recommend a 9/11 or a Vigilante multidisc...because they have the most surface area...and will give you the most longevity.
 
In all honesty, a better thing to do would be to get with a reputable converter company who has experience with our cars. They have a whole list of questions about your car and your goals they will ask you. It's all about YOUR car and YOUR goals. It's not one size fits all and the converter experts will help you sort through all of that.
 
my advise would be to take a ride in a buick with a lockup and a nonlockup.people have different opinions about both for a reason.i can say i have had bad lockups and great lockups,and have a nonlocker in my current car which is by far my favorite driving or racing and was within 50 rpm of the lockup it replaced.
 
In all honesty, a better thing to do would be to get with a reputable convertor company who has experience with our cars. They have a whole list of questions about your car and your goals they will ask you. It's all about YOUR car and YOUR goals. It's not one size fits all and the convertor experts will help you sort through all of that.

This sums it up. There isn't a clear yes or no answer because of personal goals and preferences of each owner. There is a converter that can be right for everyone out there but 1 converter doesn't fit all customers.

The purpose of the lock-up is fuel mileage........that's it.

When you increase stall to help the turbo spool, you will give up slip% up top. When the stall is higher than a combo requires you get excessive slip at which point locking the converter can improve et over running it unlocked. However when a converter is locked you no longer get torque multiplication.

If I want to set a personal goal of mpg on a trip I run a lock-up. If someone wants a direct replacement for the stock converter but gain a little spool-up I will recommend a lock-up. Anything else I prefer a non lock.
 
Thanks for all the input. Is one better than the other for longevity under mostly normal driving conditions?
 
Thanks for all the input. Is one better than the other for longevity under mostly normal driving conditions?

They both should last a long time under just driving conditions as long as heat is controlled properly. All bets are off when racing though. The NL guys love their converters. I prefer a LU. I do race a lot and have hundreds of passes locking my 5-disc Vig, and I prefer a locked converter on the street which is still 98% of my car's use. Many will say a NL cruises within 50rpm of a LU but not while going up a hill. Maybe my new turbo will need more rpm to spool, but I like my 44 spool up nature while cruising even with the converter locked. I'm sure one day I'll go NL when I need the best ET for my combo and don't drive it so much on the street, but I think that's a long ways off yet. Dusty makes a nice LU converter though that still couples pretty well even unlocked; my Dad uses one on a TPI Camaro, but if you want to lock it at wot, then get a multi-disc TC. I wouldn't get a NL from anyone but Dusty.
 
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