Lockup or Nonlockup Converter

[jasjamz]

Here is my opinion...
NLU can build more heat in the fluid under normal driving conditions. This is not good for longevity. It will require you to add a better external cooler and decrease fluid life a little depending on the type used. A lock up type converter has more components that can fail. If you are not looking to kick some a$$ everytime you drive the car, and don't plan to put on the track frequently a NLU is not what you need. A good unit will cost you $700-1000 for either type new.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Thanks for all the input. Is one better than the other for longevity under mostly normal driving conditions?

They are both mechanical so they can fail. A non lock up spragless converter is the least likely to fail because you have eliminated the 2 most likely points of failure, the lock up assembly and the sprag. However for regular driving a lock up should have a long life if the tcc solenoid in the trans doesn't go out. When people begin pushing the limits of any converter it's more prone to failure. A lock up was designed to get you to the grocery store or to your vacation spot while saving gas. It wasn't meant to run 11's or be locked at WOT. There are converters designed to lock at WOT and they can take a beating in many cases. But like everything else in the performance world. It will eventually fail.

I get the customers goals and combo details and advise on what I feel is best for that application. It's not a one size fits all scenario.

 

[Boost231]

Here is my opinion...
NLU can build more heat in the fluid under normal driving conditions. This is not good for longevity. It will require you to add a better external cooler and decrease fluid life a little depending on the type used. A lock up type converter has more components that can fail. If you are not looking to kick some a$$ everytime you drive the car, and don't plan to put on the track frequently a NLU is not what you need. A good unit will cost you $700-1000 for either type new.

From my experience a NLU converter doesn't require you to run a external cooler. we are running a ptc nl converter with one of bruces deep pans and the temps stay within the proper heat range. yes a external cooler would help but isnt required

 

[we4Mateo]

From my experience a NLU converter doesn't require you to run a external cooler. we are running a ptc nl converter with one of bruces deep pans and the temps stay within the proper heat range. yes a external cooler would help but isnt required

What are the longest trips you took with the car like this? I have a Bruce T deep pan and am curious if I can drop the cooler.

 

[jasjamz]

From my experience a NLU converter doesn't require you to run a external cooler. we are running a ptc nl converter with one of bruces deep pans and the temps stay within the proper heat range. yes a external cooler would help but isnt required

Deep pan holds more fluid, that helps. It is also made of a meterial that tends to transfer heat better than the stock pan. It is also lower into the stream of air running under the car. So I can see why you didnt see a big temp difference. Also Dusty's units work better on the highway than say an Art Carr or other NLU's that are floating around.

 

[Boost231]

What are the longest trips you took with the car like this? I have a Bruce T deep pan and am curious if I can drop the cooler.

about 100 miles around town, stop and go. we cruise around town alot for fun. no real highway trips. maybe 30 min highway trips with no issues but around town is where the heat is at.

 

[Grumpy]

hmmm.. why would ya want to get rid of a tranny cooler ?? Doesn't weigh much.. Have allways used them in all of our cars. It may not help with just cruising around BUT what about when ya start driving it like ya stole it ??

 

[dr_frankenstein]

hmmm.. why would ya want to get rid of a tranny cooler ?? Doesn't weigh much.. Have allways used them in all of our cars. It may not help with just cruising around BUT what about when ya start driving it like ya stole it ??

I Agree............ particularly with us in the southwest......... 100* temps in the summer and twice that pavement temps in traffic.... id rather not risk burnt fluid for the setup time of a cooler.

 

[Mr.Spool]

if your using synthetic fluid you would have a tough time cooking it,redline rates theirs beyond 400 degrees,more than the seals will take.i have driven on the ptc nl 5+hrs ran mid/low 10's without an issue.i also run a more aggressive gear in my car,so those running a 3.42 or 3.23 will be even lower on the rpm's at a higher cruise speed.

 

[Mr.Spool]

i do run an external cooler though

 

[trixdout]

Googling this question I came up with this, OP. This link, http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/converters.html, should explain the basics and give you a better understanding. Reading up on this right now.