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Looking for a combo to run mid 11's

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Jasjamz,
To answer your questions
1. I don't know anything about tuning these cars.
2. I want a daily driver. It won't be used as a daily driver, but if I spend real money on a car that is 20 plus years old, I want to drive whenever I get the urge. I'm not looking to build a track car. (been there done that., I don't care what kind of car you have ALL TRACK CARS ARE MONEY PITS) LOL LOL In my experience.
3. Not sure what I want to spend.
4. I'm in no rush. Trying to educate myself as much as possible.

Thanks for your help.

The tune is to get all sensors in spec then be able to run as much boost as you can without knock at the right A/F ratio.

The turbotweak chip has most of the adjustments at the correct tune and then you just make minor adjustments to the chip.

Sounds easy enough but it takes time & experience to get the correct tune.

I have only owned 2 TRs.
What I do is replace all hoses and zip tie the vacuum hoses and put t-clamps on the air & boost hoses.
I clean out the IC.
Change plugs & wires.
Fix any exhaust leaks.
Add new fuel pump & hot wire.
Install a turbotweak chip and gut the cat or put on a high flowing converter.
Install a boost guage & scanmaster scan tool and an audible knock detector.
I then check the sensors to see if they are in spec.
TPS
IAC
MAF
O2

I then drive the car and watch the BLM.
I want to see where the BLMs are at idle & under driving conditions.
The BLM tell me if I am running rich/lean.

Now with the boost set at 15psi (stock setting), I want to see if I have knock or not.

If no knock, I will drive the car at this level until I learn the car.

Next, I will add an updated exhaust. I use Pypes.
You will notice a seat of your pants performance upgrade.

Add new valve springs & a new timing chain. (My want to do at first)

I will add a dutt neck to the stocker.
You will normally see a boost gain.

You keep checking for knock & make sure your sensors are in spec.

At this point, I like to make driving upgrades.
I add the missing body bushings, put the X braces in the trunk, add the front braces and a larger rear sway-bar and boxed rear LCA.
The car will drive better and handle better.

I then will add new injectors and a new chip.

I will recheck senors & knock.

After this, I will add an alky kit and start turning up the boost.
You go up slowly while keeping sensors in spec and no knock.

I will now have a car that will blow a street tire away so I will add DRs.

Now I should have a good running 12sec car.

But boost is adictive to me so I will add a 3in DP, bigger turbo, and a stall converter.

That's where I am now and the boost does not feel enough so my next step is heads.

I probably left some things out but should have covered the basics.

It is a buyers market right now.
There was a T-type that sold in San Antonio for 10,800 or so that looked like a heck of a deal.
 
Detonation? and what about nitrous or is that what the alky kit is for?

Detonation and blown head gaskets are common problems in TR's if not all is well. The alky kit helps quench detonation.
 
The tune is to get all sensors in spec then be able to run as much boost as you can without knock at the right A/F ratio.

The turbotweak chip has most of the adjustments at the correct tune and then you just make minor adjustments to the chip.

Sounds easy enough but it takes time & experience to get the correct tune.

I have only owned 2 TRs.
What I do is replace all hoses and zip tie the vacuum hoses and put t-clamps on the air & boost hoses.
I clean out the IC.
Change plugs & wires.
Fix any exhaust leaks.
Add new fuel pump & hot wire.
Install a turbotweak chip and gut the cat or put on a high flowing converter.
Install a boost guage & scanmaster scan tool and an audible knock detector.
I then check the sensors to see if they are in spec.
TPS
IAC
MAF
O2

I then drive the car and watch the BLM.
I want to see where the BLMs are at idle & under driving conditions.
The BLM tell me if I am running rich/lean.

Now with the boost set at 15psi (stock setting), I want to see if I have knock or not.

If no knock, I will drive the car at this level until I learn the car.

Next, I will add an updated exhaust. I use Pypes.
You will notice a seat of your pants performance upgrade.

Add new valve springs & a new timing chain. (My want to do at first)

I will add a dutt neck to the stocker.
You will normally see a boost gain.

You keep checking for knock & make sure your sensors are in spec.

At this point, I like to make driving upgrades.
I add the missing body bushings, put the X braces in the trunk, add the front braces and a larger rear sway-bar and boxed rear LCA.
The car will drive better and handle better.

I then will add new injectors and a new chip.

I will recheck senors & knock.

After this, I will add an alky kit and start turning up the boost.
You go up slowly while keeping sensors in spec and no knock.

I will now have a car that will blow a street tire away so I will add DRs.

Now I should have a good running 12sec car.

But boost is adictive to me so I will add a 3in DP, bigger turbo, and a stall converter.

That's where I am now and the boost does not feel enough so my next step is heads.

I probably left some things out but should have covered the basics.

It is a buyers market right now.
There was a T-type that sold in San Antonio for 10,800 or so that looked like a heck of a deal.

ES1,
Many thanks..... 10,800.00 in San Antonio :( dang.
 
educate yourself

plus everyone is not going to tell you tricks that took them years to figure out. do what i do ( READ EVERYTHING AND ANYTHING YOU CAN ON THIS FORUM ) all the information you need is here. READ AND SEARCH
 
plus everyone is not going to tell you tricks that took them years to figure out. do what i do ( READ EVERYTHING AND ANYTHING YOU CAN ON THIS FORUM ) all the information you need is here. READ AND SEARCH

THIS IS THE BEST ADVICE I'VE SEEN SO FAR. PLEASE FOLLOW IT!!!

Ok, now that my rant is over I'll add that you need to ask questions, lots of them.:biggrin: Do NOT feel stupid. We've all been there. If you think getting an SFI car into the 11's is hard try doing mods to a carb/turbo to get it below the 12.9 second barrier.:eek: It's taken me two years of reading and asking to find the info I was looking for and I'm still in the "gathering info and parts" mode. I have to litterally make what I want because it aint there.:redface::biggrin:
 
TE-60 an supporting mods turbo is same price as TE-44 or atleast when i bought mine.... been in the 11's for 3 yrs until i put the big turbo on :eek:
 
Buy a scanmaster 2.1 first.. hook it up and learn to use it.

2) Tuneup/spring cleaning

3) Then start the mods. Easy stuff like injectors(60 lb), chip(TT), exhuast(DP,Cat,Mufflers), K&N on the MAF, etc.

I'd leave the turbo for last. Easier to tune the car with the stock turbo and take it to the low 12's. Once there.. start making decisions. The alky kit will help with the octane.

Fastest stock turbo car is 11.3, ta 49 car is in the upper 10's, gt3255 Joe's car ran 11.2 at 122.. these are all small turbo's meaning you dont have to drop the tranny and swap converters.

And as said above read read read.
 
~snip.. these are all small turbo's meaning you dont have to drop the tranny and swap converters.

At least not until it starts slipping and sliding into gear a few days after adding the add'l horsepower. :D
 
At least not until it starts slipping and sliding into gear a few days after adding the add'l horsepower. :D

The trans is a weak link in the grand scheme of things. If a person keeps clean fluid, it topped off(slightly overfilled), and lets it cool down after a beating.. it will last a little longer.

If you beat the snot out of the tranny.. it comes apart quick. 2004r's cant be beat on repeatedly

Trans Cooler is another one of those things on the list :D
 
Ok Im putting this into a airbagged truck with no fender wells and Im def excited about this build, but I know Im going to be messed with alot...That is way Im wondering on the mods to make it faster Ill be happy with what is a 12 sec setup since my truck is lighter then the car...
 
If you're 500 to 600lbs lighter than a turbo regal then just stick with all the stock stuff when you're installing the engine. Then install a Turbo Tweak chip, a K&N air filter and open the exhaust up. Put on a set of slicks and get your 12 second timeslip.:D Easy as pie!
 
well the trucks going to have 18s but is setup to have 22s on it...so a 3 inch on downpipe and exhaust...
 
Hey guys,
I've been a fan of the GN for several years. I'm looking for a combo that would put a bone stock 87 GN in the mid 11's and still give me the ability to drive it everyday. Your opinions, suggestions, and recipes would be greatly appreciated.
I'm currently looking for a 87 GN, and not sure what route to take. Buy a stock 87 GN and mod it myself, or buy one already modded. thanks for all your help.

thanks,
Ant2000
Do youself a favor, find some local GN owners that are knowlegable. You stated that you pretty much don't know anything about TBs so nows the time to start learning. Don't worry about running 11s, worry about having you car run good and take your time choosing parts. Change one thing at a time and keep a journal of what you do. Changing too many parts at once can leave you with not knowing what works and what might be causing an issue. Good luck.
 
Hey guys,
I've been a fan of the GN for several years. I'm looking for a combo that would put a bone stock 87 GN in the mid 11's and still give me the ability to drive it everyday. Your opinions, suggestions, and recipes would be greatly appreciated.
I'm currently looking for a 87 GN, and not sure what route to take. Buy a stock 87 GN and mod it myself, or buy one already modded. thanks for all your help.

thanks,
Ant2000

watch the boards for and nice GN already modded...they typically sell for less then a nice stocker since mods tend to pull the value down some. I think it will be cheaper in the long run. Then when you find one learn what it is capable of slowly...turn the boost down and learn and then slowly bring it back up when you understand how everything works. They are a ton of fun when they are in tune and really fly but be off just a little and you will be learning how to change head gaskets real fast...been there done that ;)

good luck!!!

a 99 s10 isnt much lighter ?

99 S-10 w/4.3L V6 Curb Weight 3216 lbs. so a little lighter but not so good when it comes to traction...the 4-cyl will fry the tires.

well the trucks going to have 18s but is setup to have 22s on it...so a 3 inch on downpipe and exhaust...

All the airbag frame work in the rear and tanks will add some weight but good luck with the 18's and 22's. No disrespect to the bagged low riders but I seriously don't think too many legit racers will look at a bagged S-10 w/22's as threat to race or even be interested for that matter...it's a whole different culture. You guys like to make sparks we like to burn rubber & spray alcohol both are cool but not in the same boat together when it come to racing. You will need a completely different suspension and tire setup to make it work and be fast...big heavy wheels with no sidewall just don't work. Now putting a Buick Turbo 6 in the S-10 will be cool and has been done many times (go to the Hybrid section) but it will be expensive and you will need the entire package including the ECU and trans to make it work best. But will it be a threat to street racers as a bagged bumper scraper...not likely unless you are making tons of HP to make up for the poor suspension setup but then again traction will kill you from the hole. Now you may have some real fun on the highway with some unsuspecting imports :biggrin:

You want a fast hybrid S-10 drop the bags, put some real performance suspension on it with some 15" skinny's up front, some 15x8" or 10" in the back with some Mickey Thompson drag radials and a big front mount inter cooler and you will get races everywhere you go...and win a LOT :cool:

I built a 350 V8 S-10 2WD Blazer that is a blast...my dad is driving it now and loves it. Probably a mid 12 sec vehicle but haven't been to the track yet...but is lots of fun on the street. :cool:
 
If yall had this truck bagged on 18s...and 4 linked....

What mods would yall do to it? to make it motivate faster...
 
not trying to go fast with it, but be different about this...I was just figuring there was a few mods I could do to make it breath easier and run way stronger for them late night drag sessions...spec against them 383s and procharged v6s...
 
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