low oil pressure

[QUIP'6']

well i got a new stroker done last year and really havent drove it has some problems. first motor is in my sig and has a blueprinted timing cover and oil pump. my oil pressure is 55 cold and hot is 10psi at 165 degrees when 185 it is 5 to 8psi. this is with 20/50. what should i do? i am not running an oil cooler. would that make a difference? and should i get a bigggie oil adapter? weber says it is ok because i am getting volume from the ported cover. another thing is i get alot of knock in first gear 10.8 a/f though on scanner. it has to be false i went over the car with a fine tooth comb and cant find anything banging. i do get alot of tire spin even easing into it at 45mph. if i rev it in park it will register knock.

 

[ericttype]

hi, i would see what spring is in oil pump bypass and put a heavy spring in. you will get 70 psi cold and should help hot pressure easy thing to try. 55 cold sounds low to me

 

[TurboBuRick]

Damn Brian, that sucks. I would change the oil and filter right away. See if anything shows up.

 

[WS6]

I'd be cutting open the oil filter first before I made any diagnosis.

 

[m233roller]

Sounds like bearing clearance problems to me ??:frown:

 

[Nick Micale]

......... my oil pressure is 55 cold and hot is 10psi at 165 degrees when 185 it is 5 to 8psi. this is with 20/50. what should i do? i am not running an oil cooler. would that make a difference? and should i get a bigggie oil adapter? weber says it is ok because i am getting volume from the ported cover. ........

As I was thinking about the reply, Mike's post showed up!

Bearings sounds like one of the possible problems, and because you have a cover that was modified and "should" have more flow/volume, the low pressure indicates something else is wrong?

One reason I dislike a stroker crank in a 109 block is that the oil galley is cast into the block and must be "fixed" to make room for the increased swing radius of the rods. This is another possible area that can bleed oil pressure.

You purchased a stroker build so you will be pushing this car hard and fast and will easily have over 200 deg. temp after a WOT blast, and what will be your oil pressure then?

This is an expensive built engine and "assume" it will be pushed to the limit often? It should have a remote oil filter to run a REAL racing filter, a deep oil pan for extra oil to help with cooling, and have enough reserve in the pan to avoid starving the pump.

The bypass spring should have nothing to do with oil pressure when hot if all is done correctly and it was a good cover.

You only have 2 choices, drive the car like an old man, or pull the engine and find the problem.

Guess there is another possibility that the cover/pump has an issue.

After hundreds of engine builds, when we see oil pressure like this, which is rare in our builds, it needs fixed or you will end up with a serious problem.

 

[charlief1]

I'm gonna ask what may be considered a dumb question. What oil filter do you normally use on the car? There are quite a few filters that can cause issues with oil pressure.

 

[mikestertwo]

Sounds like bearing clearance problems to me ??:frown:

Or you have a leak somewhere.

 

[QUIP'6']

hi, i would see what spring is in oil pump bypass and put a heavy spring in. you will get 70 psi cold and should help hot pressure easy thing to try. 55 cold sounds low to me

it is set that way on purpose

Damn Brian, that sucks. I would change the oil and filter right away. See if anything shows up.

3rd oil change on it maybe feww hundred miles

I'd be cutting open the oil filter first before I made any diagnosis.

will do

Sounds like bearing clearance problems to me ??:frown:

i doubt it weber is very responsible builders

As I was thinking about the reply, Mike's post showed up!

Bearings sounds like one of the possible problems, and because you have a cover that was modified and "should" have more flow/volume, the low pressure indicates something else is wrong?

One reason I dislike a stroker crank in a 109 block is that the oil galley is cast into the block and must be "fixed" to make room for the increased swing radius of the rods. This is another possible area that can bleed oil pressure.

You purchased a stroker build so you will be pushing this car hard and fast and will easily have over 200 deg. temp after a WOT blast, and what will be your oil pressure then?

This is an expensive built engine and "assume" it will be pushed to the limit often? It should have a remote oil filter to run a REAL racing filter, a deep oil pan for extra oil to help with cooling, and have enough reserve in the pan to avoid starving the pump.

The bypass spring should have nothing to do with oil pressure when hot if all is done correctly and it was a good cover.

You only have 2 choices, drive the car like an old man, or pull the engine and find the problem.

Guess there is another possibility that the cover/pump has an issue.

After hundreds of engine builds, when we see oil pressure like this, which is rare in our builds, it needs fixed or you will end up with a serious problem.

wow my post is identical to that one. very interesting information and dont want to drive like an old man with all them balls under the hood

I'm gonna ask what may be considered a dumb question. What oil filter do you normally use on the car? There are quite a few filters that can cause issues with oil pressure.

ac 52

Or you have a leak somewhere.

possibility but weber told me it was ok

 

[BlackBandit]

What's your oil pressure at 5000 rpm? Idle pressure is nice but not nearly as important as pressure under load. That said it seems low to me and I wouldn't be happy with it but if you're getting 10 psi per thousand rpm and weber is going to stand behind it........

 

[charlief1]

The AC/Fram/STP filters are junk. Try changing to a better filter and go from there.

 

[m233roller]

if i rev it in park it will register knock.

I don't care what Weber says ( and I know them and have dealt with them for years and like them) but your above statement is NOT normal or good.
Cut the filter open and look for bearing material. How hard have you hammered on this new motor? Also when you say you rev it in park, how hard are you reving it? RPM's?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Changed oil three times and no signs of metal particles? Like silver paint.

At any rate, I would be pulling the pan off today. May get lucky and find loose oil pick up.

Good luck!

 

[QUIP'6']

What's your oil pressure at 5000 rpm? Idle pressure is nice but not nearly as important as pressure under load. That said it seems low to me and I wouldn't be happy with it but if you're getting 10 psi per thousand rpm and weber is going to stand behind it........

55 psi at wot.

The AC/Fram/STP filters are junk. Try changing to a better filter and go from there.

what do you recommend?

if i rev it in park it will register knock.

I don't care what Weber says ( and I know them and have dealt with them for years and like them) but your above statement is NOT normal or good.
Cut the filter open and look for bearing material. How hard have you hammered on this new motor? Also when you say you rev it in park, how hard are you reving it? RPM's?

didnt really hammer on it at all really never got out of second car out of control. never ran more than 17psi and 20/18 timing. in park if i just stab the throttle real quick maybe to 3500.

Changed oil three times and no signs of metal particles?

At any rate, I would be pulling the pan off today. May get lucky and find loose oil pick up.

Good luck!

dont have the strength nor do i car to pull pan. i know it needs done but i am totaly crushed. i think i am going to get a mechanical autometer and ditch my electric one. get a good auxillary oil cooler and a biggie oil adapter and see if any changes. i dont know why weber is saying that this is normal. they are saying that i am getting volume from the ported cover which in turn shows less pressure. are electric gauges any good

 

[charlief1]

Wix, Baldwin, and donaldson are good choices. Here's a link you may find usefull.

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

 

[mikestertwo]

are electric gauges any good

I have never had a problem with an electric gauge (VDO) but it never hurts to double check with a mechanical one.

 

[QUIP'6']

Wix, Baldwin, and donaldson are good choices. Here's a link you may find usefull.

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources

I have never had a problem with an electric gauge (VDO) but it never hurts to double check with a mechanical one.

thanks guys. my friend got a weber stroker when i did and he has a cooler and mechanical gauge and his hot oil pressure is 15psi hot.

 

[BlackBandit]

55 at how many rpm? I have a friend that just pulled apart the fastest Buick 350 possible (that's funny if you remember Postons) and he had thousands of passes. The last couple years the gauge wouldn't even register at idle but he got 55-60 at 5200 rpms and when he pulled it down the bearings were just starting to show copper in a few places. Most of them were still good enough that he's considering re-using them. I don't know what's up with your engine and I'm not saying it's right (it shouldn't knock while free revving it IMO) I'm just saying pressure and volume are two different things and great oil pressure (at least at idle) isn't what keeps an engine alive. Pull some timing, add some fuel, make sure you didn't wipe a cam, basically check for other causes of knock until you know for sure it's a build problem. Oh yeah, and definitely check your pressure with a different gauge!

 

[QUIP'6']

55 at how many rpm? I have a friend that just pulled apart the fastest Buick 350 possible (that's funny if you remember Postons) and he had thousands of passes. The last couple years the gauge wouldn't even register at idle but he got 55-60 at 5200 rpms and when he pulled it down the bearings were just starting to show copper in a few places. Most of them were still good enough that he's considering re-using them. I don't know what's up with your engine and I'm not saying it's right (it shouldn't knock while free revving it IMO) I'm just saying pressure and volume are two different things and great oil pressure (at least at idle) isn't what keeps an engine alive. Pull some timing, add some fuel, make sure you didn't wipe a cam, basically check for other causes of knock until you know for sure it's a build problem. Oh yeah, and definitely check your pressure with a different gauge!

it jumps to 50 55 at just a rev. free reving it doesnt show knock it shows it if i rev it hard for a second on the decel. i have the car timing at 20/18 and boost at 17psi and wideband chip at 10.8. and i also have a roller cam

 

[QUIP'6']

how well will an auxillary oil cooler lower temps and keep viscosity?