LS1/f-body rear brake swap
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I found one that I took that day, you can sort of see what im talking about.
I would have to go home and look at my car BUT from this pic it seems like you could drill a new hole to the side of the factory shock mounting hole for relocation instead of using a bracket? Or would you be there all day drilling because of the thickness?
Red Regal T
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He didn't use a bracket.
Yes, i was referring to those that would need to relocate if not using KYBs...
What do you think?
Red Regal T
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As I mentioned above, had I realized I didn't have to relocate the shock mount, certainly I wouldn't have bothered. It was a lot of extra work making those brackets, and apparently, to my chagrin, unnecessary, but at least I didn't buy relocation brackets. 
Shock relocation brackets, B&G body
Shock relocation brackets, B&G body
As I mentioned above, had I realized I didn't have to relocate the shock mount, certainly I wouldn't have bothered. It was a lot of extra work making those brackets, and apparently, to my chagrin, unnecessary, but at least I didn't buy relocation brackets.
Shock relocation brackets, B&G body
No doubt about the brackets! I thought i read every word of this thread but did not realize to re-use the factory shock bolts. That saves time and money right there!!
I wll be attempting this 4 disc swap soon....
"More Boost"
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I know rear disc's look really cool, but do they stop anybetter than drums? seriously my drums work awsome. virtually maintenance free.
Sal, look at post 433 if you want a fairly easy way to relocate the shock mounts. It's what I did on mine and it aligns everything better as well.:biggrin: If you have any problems I thnk you still have my number don't you?
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/before-black-non-sfi-tech/322115-finally-got-some-time-13.html
Red Regal T
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Of course they do. How could 12" disc brakes not stop better than drum brakes? Sure, I had no complaints with my stock GN brakes, but they don't hold a candle to the stopping performance of 12" disc brakes on all four corners. Why would you think disc brakes would require more maintenance than drum brakes? Yeah, drum brakes are so maintenance free, you don't know when you have a problem unless you check them visually, but because you don't know you have a problem, a situation I've encountered more than once, you don't bother until a not so impressive panic stop informs you that there's something wrong.
And you're right .. rear disc brakes look really cool.
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Red Regal T
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But .... why would you want a fairly easy way to relocate the shock mount when you don't need to relocate the shock attachment? According to photos above, the installation of the LS1 caliper was accomplished without relocating the shock.
And that's why 4 wheel drum systems are still on new cars, right?
I had issues with the shock and the caliper hitting John. I had to relocate them so there wasn't any interference. The banjo bolt and the shock were hitting each other and that just isn't acceptable for me. I did find that the 1/4" thickness aligned the shock better though.
Red Regal T
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And that's why 4 wheel drum systems are still on new cars, right?
I had issues with the shock and the caliper hitting John. I had to relocate them so there wasn't any interference. The banjo bolt and the shock were hitting each other and that just isn't acceptable for me. I did find that the 1/4" thickness aligned the shock better though.
Parts hitting each other weren't acceptable to you? Why not?
Why would your shock hit the banjo bolt when the setup pictured above shows clearance? Aren't you following this thread?
ttypewe4jim
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Parts hitting each other weren't acceptable to you? Why not?
Why would your shock hit the banjo bolt when the setup pictured above shows clearance? Aren't you following this thread?
John since your choosing to give a member a hard time as usual. I can ASSURE you if you use some shocks they have to be relocated, and if its a double adjustable dray style shock there is no way to make it work in the stock location if you want to adjust it.
Red Regal T
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John since your choosing to give a member a hard time as usual. I can ASSURE you if you use some shocks they have to be relocated, and if its a double adjustable dray style shock there is no way to make it work in the stock location if you want to adjust it.
Oh, poor members. They're so incapable of explaining themselves, I know. Charlie completely ignored the flow of the thread by pointing out his relocation bracket, apparently, an unnecessary relocation bracket. I think a further explanation is in order, if you don't mind. In that photo, it can be plainly seen there is nothing special about his shocks. You can assure me if you use some shocks there's no way you can make it work? Prove it! Where's your pictures of your set up? Do you have a set up?
Actually John. it aligned the shock better and makes it react better.:biggrin: I actually did the math to check the position and the angles. Just like the rear UCA's, they needed a slight tweek to make the correct angles for a more effective rear suspension.:biggrin:
Red Regal T
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I haven't tried removing my re-location brackets yet, but I will try it when I get the right hardware. I'll post the results.
I welded mine on but left the original hole in the same place so if I change the set up I can go back to the stock location. I've got the Blazer backing plate if I want ot change it out later.
mousemobile
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shock clearance
IF the shocks are barely touching at FULL droop, they probably will not need relocation. With the car on jackstands and rear end hanging, the shock to caliper clearance is at the worst condition. As the suspension is compressed, the clearance increases due to the angularity.
It is unlikely that the suspension would travel that far in ANY driving, excepting of course jumping over hills.
I'm not sure how much lateral movement the rear axle has. The lateral movement, might have an effect on clearance.
The best way to test for clearance is to use old shocks without relocating brackets. See how big a dent or mark, if any, is left on the shock tube.
That said, I’m leaving my rear disc brake conversion and rear end swap as the last project, getting my car together and driveable is more important.
IF the shocks are barely touching at FULL droop, they probably will not need relocation. With the car on jackstands and rear end hanging, the shock to caliper clearance is at the worst condition. As the suspension is compressed, the clearance increases due to the angularity.
It is unlikely that the suspension would travel that far in ANY driving, excepting of course jumping over hills.
I'm not sure how much lateral movement the rear axle has. The lateral movement, might have an effect on clearance.
The best way to test for clearance is to use old shocks without relocating brackets. See how big a dent or mark, if any, is left on the shock tube.
That said, I’m leaving my rear disc brake conversion and rear end swap as the last project, getting my car together and driveable is more important.
