LT1 MAF inside Stock Airbox

[bison]

The best is has gone is 11.53 @ 118.3, but this was with BFGDR's, 36# injectors, a 100% stock motor, a TA49 with a Garrett housing and a stock intercooler with a big neck.

That is very commendable on the stock intercooler and small injector. Any supplemental fuel being added like alky? With more injector and modding the engine internally you could probably run 10.80's at under 30psi. That would be a shocker for a stocker.

 

[UNGN]

That is very commendable on the stock intercooler and small injector. Any supplemental fuel being added like alky? With more injector and modding the engine internally you could probably run 10.80's at under 30psi. That would be a shocker for a stocker.

No added fuel and only 46# of Line off FP.

It was lean as hell, but stayed together for over 2 years of running like this before I decided to rebuild the motor and port the heads (and it sat in my garage untouched for 6 years)

The tops of the pistons were melted slightly from the leaness, but the motor was otherwhise fine.

I was also able to verify the heads had never been worked. Not even a valve job.

Have 50lb injectors, a 212 cam and ported heads, now. My 70 year old dad is putting 14 psi miles on the motor before I beat on again.

 

[UNGN]

Finally getting around to posting the rest...

Pop the screen out of a dead MAF and use a pair of pliers and a hacksaw inside to remove the guts.

Don't get too wild, you don't want to crack the case.

Remove as much of the Aluminum board as you can and grind down whats left with a dremel. Fill the remaining slot with Epoxy to smooth the airflow.

 

[UNGN]

Now to cut the bottom out of the base. How big you open the bottom depends on how big your filter is.

For this conversion, I've forgone my old filter and am using absolutely the largest filter that will fit that I bought off E-bay for $48 shipped.

The corners of the base still wrap under, but on the sides I had to come up to clear. It's not shown in these pictures, but to reduce metal removal at the opening, I used a 2X2 to beat and stretch the opening to clear the filter and bend the sharp edge away from the filter to avoid it wearing through if there is contact.

 

[Mike Licht]

I have gutted the stock sensors by splitting the two sensor halfs apart, removing the screws that hold in the circut board and then gluing the halfs back together.

 

[UNGN]

I have gutted the stock sensors by splitting the two sensor halfs apart, removing the screws that hold in the circut board and then gluing the halfs back together.

I was going to try that, but was afraid it might crack. I guess I'll give it another go. Then I can wire the translator wires into the dead MAF plug and it would plug in like stock.

 

[UNGN]

To hold the lid to the base, Version 1 used cabinet hardware. Version 2 used much more High tech Neodymium magnets from K & J Magnetics.

I used six (6) 1/4" X 1/8" X 3/4" (P/N BC42 - $.70 each) mounted in pairs, two pair on the sides in front and 1 pair in the middle in back.

If you cut away the seal, the magnets will fit down in the groove. I glued them on with epoxy. Make sure each pairs magnetic orientation is correct before you glue them on or the lid will try to levitate 1/2" above the base.

The bottom picture shows gap of the the lid and base mounted together. Unless you look very close, you wouldn't know how the lid/base attached once they are together. Cabinet hardware has to be mounted on the outside of the base (under the lip in front an back), but the magnets are completely hidden inside and 3 mounting points are more stable than the two from version 1.

 

[UNGN]

On version 1, I used bracket by cutting the factory pedestal in 1/2 and re-bending it. For version 2, I made brackets out of .050" Aluminum sheet.

You can use the factory pedestal as a guide.

 

[Squid4life]

Absolute genius! I love it!

 

[UNGN]

To set the height of the brackets, base is on a flat surface and the ruler is up from that surface. The back bracket is at 7.5" and the front Bracket is at 6.75". This should get it close to the stock height and orientation.

I drilled pilot holes in the brackets, set the height and marked the base, then drilled larger holes for the screws and nuts.

 

[UNGN]

Use a dremel/cut off wheel to get rid of the extra screw length, so they don't poke the filter.

Note the center magnet location at the back of the base.

The second picture shows that you need to plug the translator box into the MAF BEFORE you install it in the lid.

The third picture shows a heat gun used to stretch the elbow over the MAF. If you have a machinist friend, they could chuck the MAF 1/2 in a lathe and take .060" off in a couple minutes, but I used hours and a flapper wheel and I still needed a heat gun to stretch the elbow. The elbow holds the MAF in place... once on, the MAF isn't going anywhere.

The next pictures shows the Translator box going inside the air tube. The amount of air this setup gets through this tube is minimal.

 

[UNGN]

With a fresh coat of Satin Black on the lid, base and legs its ready to be installed.

A new sticker from Russ Selkirk completes the stock look. In the bottom photo, you can see how the base has been flared out at the bottom lip to avoid snagging the filter and improve airflow.

All that is left is to swap on the stock hardware/IAT sensor/hose clamps and mount it in the car.

My plan next racing season is to run a low 11 second pass and when the track tells me to slow down, slap on an actual stock airfilter assy and see what it runs.

 

[UNGN]

The filter I'm using in Version 2 is a K&N RR-3002. It will stretch over a 3" MAF and hold without requiring a clamp and it appers to be the highest flowing filter that will fit in the space of the factory box at the factory height.

If my old filter went 11.50's, this one should be good for 10's with no issues.

 

[Squid4life]

Did this require cutting any of the plastic inner fenderwell, especially for "cold air" affect?

 

[UNGN]

Did this require cutting any of the plastic inner fenderwell, especially for "cold air" affect?

No. But then again, at the track, I cool the engine compartment way down by spraying the intercooler and radiator with water. after each run so my underhood temps aren't that much different from outside temps.

I've had both ram air and cold air setups on my car and at the track, there is no measureable difference between any of the setups I've tried and this set up.

 

[Squid4life]

Great info, thank you for sharing!

 

[usetaboost]

THere was really no difference in track time or speed from your setup, ram air, and cold air? Must be from the air filter being enclosed in the air box I take it?

 

[UNGN]

THere was really no difference in track time or speed from your setup, ram air, and cold air? Must be from the air filter being enclosed in the air box I take it?

None. On the street, on a hot day, maybe cold air or ram air might be .1 and 1/2 mph faster, I wouldn't know. At the track with a cooldown, there is zero difference at 11.50/118 mph.

 

[Coelacanth]

VERY nice!

Have you ran this set-up at the track yet?
The reason I ask, is that the plastic elbow has been stated to be a "major restriction" in the intake system.
While there is some merit to that statement, is it enough to hold the car back from mid 11's?
Edit;
Nevermind, I read the page in the link in your sig - 118mph! SWEET LORD!!


Thanks for sharing!

Thanks as well, that's a really cool mod for those who want to keep a stock-appearing intake. That's not a consideration for me, I just want the engine bay to look less cluttered and clunky, and I find the OEM intake airflow has too many changes in direction, and the 90-degree elbow and entire air-box assembly is something I want to eliminate.