http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16496&highlight=Grand+National
That's what I've done to the suspension on mine. Part numbers and all, along with links to all the places that gave me the information I needed to make the choices. For a GN, it does extremely well on an Autocross course. You still can't push it too hard in a slalom or you'll lock up the rear end and spin, but this setup at least responds to steering input, has a lot more front-end bite, body roll is controlled, and doesn't beat you to death on the street.
A warning about Corner-Carvers: Please read the rules before you post ANYTHING or they'll eat you alive.
If you're planning on actually autocrossing it often, you also should add oil coolers for the engine oil and the transmission. I burned up the Redline ATF in my transmission in just three events, and you'll need a puke tank for the valve cover breathers or you're going to spill oil everywhere.
If you're going to be seriously open tracking it, I really think you need to pull the engine and rebuild it with better stuff. Higher volume oil pump, and a turbocharger with a water-cooled center section at a minimum, a baffled oil pan with a windage tray would be good, too. Buick didn't ship these engines ready operate reliably at WOT for long periods or under extreme lateral acceleration. You only have to uncover the pickup for a split second to start spinning bearings.
I have the Wilwood HD front brake kit (10.25x1.25" rotor), but a C5 or LS1 front rotor setup would be better for open tracking. I've managed to fade the Wilwood setup at an autocross in the first run, and that's using Motul 600 fluid and the Wilwood Q compound pads the kit came with. I've since switched to Hawk HPS pads in the front, and it does much better, but I still wouldn't trust them for more than a few laps on a road course.
Dump the Powermaster. It can't be trusted. Go vacuum with a good check valve and a large vacuum resevoir or a vacuum pump, or go manual. Extended runs at high boost with a normal vacuum booster will leave you with no power assist at the end of straight, and that's bad in a 3500+lb car that's moving over 100mph. I don't know enough about Hydroboost to be able to recommend or not recommend it for this application.