T- Type Tim
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Manual brake set up done
- Thread starter T- Type Tim
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T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
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im betting 30 -35, but i dont have a scale so give or take
detroitbadboy
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Are you using the stock lines with a factory prop valve? Or is that got an internal 50/50 set up on that master and you removed the factory prop valve. Also what brake pedal.
More importantly, how's it stop? I have manual brakes on my LS Maverick and quite frankly, the brakes suck! I am in the midst of trying a larger bore front caliper to see if that helps. BTW, my front clip uses GM Metric calipers. The stockers have 2.38" pistons, I just bought a pair of Wilwood 2.75" bore calipers for 35% more area...
T- Type Tim
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everything except master cylinder and the mount to fire wall is stock , even brake pedal
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
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I have'nt taken it out yet, just bled out the system and rolled it back in garage....didnt want to wake the neighbors up...I plan on taking it out very soon
Big Turbo Scott
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Ive wanted to go to manual brakes for a long time now. Im very interested in how it performs. Keep us posted please!
Scott
T- Type Tim
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Will do Scott, its going to be sunday before I can get her out and see how it does.
That factory PB pedal ratio won't give as much mechanical advantage as a manual pedal, but you can always move the pushrod mount up higher to get the ratio up if your brakes are too hard. PB pedals have around a 4.5:1 ratio while manual pedals have around 6.5:1
T- Type Tim
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Finally took it out today, put 40 miles on it in stop and go traffic, absolutely no complaints with this setup, even with 3.5" rims up front , this thing stops just fine. With that said , It time to get some c -16 and bring the boost up
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Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.
Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.
Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
Chuck,
I found that same thread by "MalibuDave" over on hotrodders.com. I ran out of fluid with my 15/16" bore m/c and ordered a 1" bore C3 Corvette master. After "oblonging" the holes so it would fit over the studs, I found it wouldn't clear the valve cover. Now I'm waiting on a 1" bore 1970 F-100 master... I'm not gonna hang a hydroboost off my firewall, so if this doesn't get it, I'll just drive with cr@ppy brakes!
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
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- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 2,113
anyone wants a working hydraboost cheap let me know
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,600
Russ, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.
Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
Hey Chuck , did you need the proportioning valve because you went to the 7/8 rear wheel cylinder ? and your big bore 2.75" calipers worked well with your hydroboost , eg - hydro boost has enough power / fluid displacement to make them work better then the 2.50" ? thank youRuss, I have that combo on my 55. I tried the big bore calipers, and some softer pads...Not good. [And, this was with power brakes.]
I added a hydraboost, and WOW, this sucka stops! I couldn't imagine what a non power setup would do. [Car is at 3400#]
I bought a brake psi ga, and did the B4 and after testing...700# B4, 2100 after. [Engine vac at over 15"]
1 item I did make use of, was the Wilwood adj prop valve. I kept opening it up from the recommended 1/2 turn from closed, to near 3 turns, B4 the rears would lock up. Backed it closed 1/4 turn... All's well.
Some interesting info, here.
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/manual-brake-conversion.368183/page-2
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
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Sorry. I should have clarified how the 55 is set up..
It has a 9" Ford under it, w/ the 11 x 21/4" drums.
