Ok, well Im new to the TR crowd. I bought my 86 GN in september. Its a 64k mile florida car with what I know a stock motor that runs great. I had a lot of fun with it while the tranny lasted. I was told it was an Art Carr tranny with a 3300 stall, but that turned out to be false once it fried the 2nd gear band. He said it was the guys who bought his name, some company in Texas. Anyway I have a real Art Carr tranny he rated for 800hp with his 3200 stall 9" TC waiting on a pallet to go in the car.
This is what the car has:
stock motor and rotating assm, but I havent had it out and looked at it. I noticed my freeze plugs are painted black, and Im used to seeing the bronze ones, so IDK. The motor runs great and doesn't seem to have and issues except oil leaks from the VC, and possible the front cover oil pump area. It doesn't burn any oil or loose any coolant. Im picking up a set of fresh 8445 heads with a valve job, bowl blending, and some port matching. Also a 210/205 .470/.459 Reeds hydraulic flat cam. I've got comp strings and lifters. The heads will get a stock style rocker setup that I havent decided on yet.. Only revving to stock 54-5500.
It has a precision 6152E turbo that has hardly any play in the shaft, so I would like to keep it.
It has an old SMC alky kit with the controller in the console. Needs a new bottle but keeping the rest.
RJC 3" DP and GBodyParts 3" single shot exhaust and Pypes test pipe.
Precision stretched SLIC
TT chip for 93/alky, runs very rich about 10:1 on my wideband. The chip is old and will at least get a new more modern one or go with some sort of power logger to make my own changes.
Before I get to far off I need to get to my question. I would like a street car which it will be 95% of the time I drive it that can also run a low 11 maybe even a high 10 with more suspension work and good tuning... Im guessing 450-500 whp. I've seen Bison Otto did that with my turbo and a mild engine build with I think somewhere around 25-28psi. While i got the motor out I want to address some of the bottom end weak points. I don't want to go all out forged with this motor since it runs well, and Ill save that for a stage motor build. Mostly a stock short block that can take that rare 5% of the time on the track. I've seen people posting about deep 10's and 600+hp cars building the bottom and thats not what Im looking for right now. Im not sure exactly what is safe with the stock motors. I've been looking at billet caps (the middle 2, front and middle 2, or all 4). I would prefer to stay out of the machine shop, so those would be difficult. I've looked at the RJC girdle, but I've heard you have to shave some off the caps, and IDK... Ive never installed this girdle. If you have please chime in and give me your input on the install. Then what I would like to do, if it is safe for my power goals and being mostly a street car is just stud the stock mains and call it a day, but if it isn't safe please chime in on your experiences. My heads will be studded and every motor I've built Ive always studded a motor from top and bottom. I've had good luck with that...
So what are your guys' views on this? What needs to be done to the shortblock for this power level of 450-500whp?
Sorry for the long post. lol
Thanks, chris
This is what the car has:
stock motor and rotating assm, but I havent had it out and looked at it. I noticed my freeze plugs are painted black, and Im used to seeing the bronze ones, so IDK. The motor runs great and doesn't seem to have and issues except oil leaks from the VC, and possible the front cover oil pump area. It doesn't burn any oil or loose any coolant. Im picking up a set of fresh 8445 heads with a valve job, bowl blending, and some port matching. Also a 210/205 .470/.459 Reeds hydraulic flat cam. I've got comp strings and lifters. The heads will get a stock style rocker setup that I havent decided on yet.. Only revving to stock 54-5500.
It has a precision 6152E turbo that has hardly any play in the shaft, so I would like to keep it.
It has an old SMC alky kit with the controller in the console. Needs a new bottle but keeping the rest.
RJC 3" DP and GBodyParts 3" single shot exhaust and Pypes test pipe.
Precision stretched SLIC
TT chip for 93/alky, runs very rich about 10:1 on my wideband. The chip is old and will at least get a new more modern one or go with some sort of power logger to make my own changes.
Before I get to far off I need to get to my question. I would like a street car which it will be 95% of the time I drive it that can also run a low 11 maybe even a high 10 with more suspension work and good tuning... Im guessing 450-500 whp. I've seen Bison Otto did that with my turbo and a mild engine build with I think somewhere around 25-28psi. While i got the motor out I want to address some of the bottom end weak points. I don't want to go all out forged with this motor since it runs well, and Ill save that for a stage motor build. Mostly a stock short block that can take that rare 5% of the time on the track. I've seen people posting about deep 10's and 600+hp cars building the bottom and thats not what Im looking for right now. Im not sure exactly what is safe with the stock motors. I've been looking at billet caps (the middle 2, front and middle 2, or all 4). I would prefer to stay out of the machine shop, so those would be difficult. I've looked at the RJC girdle, but I've heard you have to shave some off the caps, and IDK... Ive never installed this girdle. If you have please chime in and give me your input on the install. Then what I would like to do, if it is safe for my power goals and being mostly a street car is just stud the stock mains and call it a day, but if it isn't safe please chime in on your experiences. My heads will be studded and every motor I've built Ive always studded a motor from top and bottom. I've had good luck with that...
So what are your guys' views on this? What needs to be done to the shortblock for this power level of 450-500whp?
Sorry for the long post. lol
Thanks, chris