Miss/sputter during hard accel

[BlackMetal]

Long time no post...new problem has reared its ugly head.

Pretty straight forward complaint. Jam on the gas, car will speed up for a second or so, then suddenly cuts out like a miss, then eventually will pick up normally again. I'm not sure if it backfires or anything...I can't say I've heard any alarming "popping", but as I said, more what I would call "cutting out" where it just goes dead for a few seconds.

Here's the thing. Nothing really happened leading up to discovering this problem where I could think back and go "oh, I guess this started when so-and-so happened". The only thing that seems to relate to this problem is the colder weather.

Could it be bad gas from having the car garaged with nearly an empty tank during the first cold snap? My dad thought the same thing, but when he had the car out to make some stops yesterday, he says he filled it up and there's no difference.

Plugs and wires were replaced a few months back during nicer weather. I wouldn't think an ignition module would go bad just sitting in the garage...but maybe.

I realize the futility of diagnosing over the internet, but maybe someone has an idea. If not I'll just wait 'til spring and take it to a shop. Or like I used to do, if anyone would find it helpful, I'll bring my camera along for the ride so people can see exactly what it is that goes on.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT. Forgot to mention the last time it happened I did see about 2 degrees on knock, but I don't know if that's genuine detonation or just the engine getting shifted around from running rough.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Well since you have doen plugs an wires then that leaves the coil and module so to see if the coil is bad just ohm out each tower should be between 11-13 ohms to be good. Also with the module that can be tested also. I have had one be tested @ Autozone before an say it was good only to leave ther an go to Oreilys an have there tester show it was bad, and it was!

Could also be a bad MAF !! Unplug the MAf an drive the car to see if that helps.

Ck. crank sensor to see if it is lose.
What does your fuel PSI do when this happens?
Get the camera lets see some footage!'
I will say I have had a module do the same thing you describe. But it could be any # of things.

 

[BlackMetal]

Alright, took my car out today since most of the snow has melted anyway, here's a short clip of footage.

YouTube - GN miss Obviously I didn't want to prolong the torture to my car, so you'll just hear it buck quickly a few times and then the turbo flutters when I get off the gas. ScanMaster hit about 5deg of knock during that video.

I'll get out there with my multimeter and see what I can find with the coils, etc.

While driving today I did notice that it doesn't happen even around 75% throttle, it's just when I really jam on it that I get that result.

Is there a way to test the module without taking it somewhere for someone to do it?

 

[BlackMetal]

Just went out to test the coils....

Coil 3/6: 12.56Ω
Coil 2/5: 12.72Ω
Coil 1/4: 13.18Ω

Is that 1/4 coil considered high resistance or still close enough to spec?

 

[jurassic five 7]

have you checked fp? Mine acted like that a little, when my fp wasnt rising with boost. It only happened when it'd get past 4,500 though.

 

[BlackMetal]

have you checked fp? Mine acted like that a little, when my fp wasnt rising with boost. It only happened when it'd get past 4,500 though.

Haven't checked it recently, but my adjustable FPR is another fairly recent upgrade (this summer) so I'd hope nothing is wrong with it yet.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

That is what my car would do when my module went!! It would drive fine until there was a sudden strain onthe ignition system an then cut out an buck even go dead. I do not think Advance Auto can ck. them but I know Oreilys can. "If" it is the module don't skimp on a Wells or a Forgeson they are junk. Go for the Ac Delco $180-200 dollar one I have already been down that rd.. Seems the coil resistance is fine. When my module went it would do the same thing when a "sudden" strain was put on the motor. Best this is to go an have the module checked. Also does the car build boost as usual? Also check all your hoses for intercooler tubing to make sure nothing has worked loose either hose or clamp.

I know of no other way to ck module!! This site has been really helpful to some>>>>

Vortex Turbo Buick Performance

 

[BlackMetal]

Boost builds normally, everything seems to run fine except that one situation. All the tubing and everything should be ok because I just did all that this summer too haha. Put in a stock IC with the Dutt neck, so all of those connections were just tightened when I did that this summer. But I will check out some of the areas you suggested just in case. The more I think about it the more it seems like a module though.

 

[gmpower6]

Does it cut out when cold? My car would run great until she warmed up to normal 20min of driving. After that put the boost to it and cough and cut out bad. Coil was breaking down when got engine heat got to it.

Put a new one on and still the same coil 5 years going.

Sean

 

[TurboBuRick]

I have a coil-pak and modlue you can try out. Let me know.

 

[BlackMetal]

Does it cut out when cold? My car would run great until she warmed up to normal 20min of driving. After that put the boost to it and cough and cut out bad. Coil was breaking down when got engine heat got to it.

Put a new one on and still the same coil 5 years going.

Sean

I'm not sure, I'm usually pretty careful to not even pull out of the driveway until everything is up to temp.

I have a coil-pak and modlue you can try out. Let me know.

Well that would certainly be helpful before I start throwing money at it. Let me know what you have in mind as far as how we would arrange it.

 

[tim87tr]

Did you find the problem? It's free to check the ground from the battery to the front of the engine at the turbo shield bracket connection. I removed the bracket and forgot to attach the ground and had a similar problem.

 

[BlackMetal]

Did you find the problem? It's free to check the ground from the battery to the front of the engine at the turbo shield bracket connection. I removed the bracket and forgot to attach the ground and had a similar problem.

So there should be a ground at the turbo shield bracket? I'll check it out tomorrow. Haven't had my turbo shield off since a few months back when I changed the downpipe, and the car performed fine after that, but I will look into it just in case.

 

[tim87tr]

So there should be a ground at the turbo shield bracket? I'll check it out tomorrow. Haven't had my turbo shield off since a few months back when I changed the downpipe, and the car performed fine after that, but I will look into it just in case.

The bottom of two bolts for the turbo shield bracket is the front of the block where the negative battery cable attaches. It is hard to see, look over and down the passenger side header area before it gets to the turbo. It travels under the passenger side header and gets burned good there too, especially with a new dp and unshielded cable. I believe someone makes a relocation kit also if it ends up being a problem. I forgot to re-attach mine when I removed the bracket and it ran ok until I accelerated.

 

[BlackMetal]

Hmmm interesting, I'll check tomorrow and we'll find out.

 

[The Machine]

Also check that the coil bracket bolts are tight, and the ground on the back of the passenger side head. Check for corrosion on the chip pins, the ecu plug pins, and the ignit module plug pins. You mentioned it sat in the garage, how long? Charge the battery?? Tighten the battery cables. Possibly gently tug on the orange ecu power wire to the battery, to see if it acts up.

Good Luck!

 

[BlackMetal]

Thanks for the tips. I'll look into all of that. Unfortunately it's the sorta problem that doesn't show up every time I drive it, so it'll be hard to tell if I fix the problem or if it just doesn't feel like acting up at that moment. It would be nice if I didn't need any expensive parts though.

 

[turbo39151]

swap in a known working MAF. It sounds like a MAF

Or upgrade to an LS1 MAF with translator...

 

[rking]

Just wondering if you ever found a solution? Mine has just started the same problem. Always ran perfect till my turbo/injector/chip upgrade. Exact same sputter as you are seeing, but it doesnt happen always, just as you stated. Mine always starts at 1 psi boost. Fuel pressures good, new battery, good voltage from the alternator, check grounds and look good, I'm lost too . How's your's going??

 

[onefastcar]

Check the main ground passenger side on the bracket that attaches to the intercooler to the engine they typically come loose over time. You're main power wire to starter could get burned by header check that it is not burned and shorting to ground under hard acceleration also check grounds on pssenger side header in back you have some grounds that could come loose to, i put a casper relocation on that set for peace of mind and easy checking. Good luck.