Missing MAF and Trans+

[esinger]

Yesterday after coming home late from a large auto show I found a small box in the mail. I didn't open it that night, but magically the next morning the Translater Plus and LT1 MAF disappeared from my car and the unopenned box is empty.

The suspected culprits are Eric Marshall (AKA Turbo Tweak) and Bob Bailey (AKA TurboBob).

Someone must pay for this!!! So I'm just going to have to take it out my vengance on unsuspecting cars on the streets and the dragstrips
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Well the new SD Chip from TurboTweak is in the car and the car runs great. I've played around with various parameters but realized the best thing to do was to start with parameter 7 (Overall Fueling). My car runs rich and it seems no matter what chip I get, taking fuel out picks performance up quite a bit. Once I'm done with the overall fueling, tweaking will start next with the other parameters (There's a bunch!).

This is one Great Chip!!!

 

[Jerryl]

........... SD Chip from TurboTweak .............
This is one Great Chip!!!

X2!

 

[esinger]

Hi Jerryl,

I have the overall fueling set down to what I beleive is giving me the best performance, yet not too lean. I'm starting to second guess myself and wondering if I should adjust the fuel pressure down instead of adjusting it at the chip. Kind of fixing it at the source kind of thinking.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[Eric Stage I]

I always start with the idle fuel adjustment. I would put the overall fuel back at 128 for now, fuel pressure at 43psi. Make sure the car is completely warmed up (coolant 160 and running for more than 10 minutes). There is an afterstart fuel that is applied for about the first 10 minutes of runtime. You need to make sure it has decayed out. You'll know when the INT reaches 128 (it will start high and get lower as the car warms up). Once that's done, let the car idle in park and notice the A/F ratio. I like to target 13.5-14.0 or around there. You bump idle fuel (param 9) up or down 2 numbers at a time until you get what you want. Remember when you restart the car, you have to wait the 10 minutes again until afterstart fuel is done.

Option#2, set parameter 6 to an odd number, say 129. That puts it into closed loop at idle and driving and will hold idle to 13.5 a/f, and driving around at 14.5. (As long as you have your wideband connected and working properly.) You can monitor closed loop correction to see how much it's correcting (look at x-counts).

Eric

 

[Jerryl]

Hi Jerryl,

I have the overall fueling set down to what I beleive is giving me the best performance, yet not too lean. I'm starting to second guess myself and wondering if I should adjust the fuel pressure down instead of adjusting it at the chip. Kind of fixing it at the source kind of thinking.

Any thoughts on this?

Eric,
See response below from TT.
I never mess with the FPR anymore.
All adjustments are in the chip.

Edit:
The closed loop and SD combination is proof that ; "You can have you cake and eat it too!"

I always start with the idle fuel adjustment. I would put the overall fuel back at 128 for now, fuel pressure at 43psi. Make sure the car is completely warmed up (coolant 160 and running for more than 10 minutes). There is an afterstart fuel that is applied for about the first 10 minutes of runtime. You need to make sure it has decayed out. You'll know when the INT reaches 128 (it will start high and get lower as the car warms up). Once that's done, let the car idle in park and notice the A/F ratio. I like to target 13.5-14.0 or around there. You bump idle fuel (param 9) up or down 2 numbers at a time until you get what you want. Remember when you restart the car, you have to wait the 10 minutes again until afterstart fuel is done.

Option#2, set parameter 6 to an odd number, say 129. That puts it into closed loop at idle and driving and will hold idle to 13.5 a/f, and driving around at 14.5. (As long as you have your wideband connected and working properly.) You can monitor closed loop correction to see how much it's correcting (look at x-counts).

Eric

X2 (LOL!!!!)

 

[esinger]

Okay, so if low throttle is an odd number it's in closed loop. The documentation doesn't state whether there's any difference between low throttle closed loop odd number (119, 121, 123,1 33, 145, etc...) Does the amount of the odd number make any difference?

Also another question, there's low throttle closed loop and WOT closed loop, but I haven't seen anything regarding Mid Boost closed loop. In other words I'm seeing closed loop for vacuum and for 13 psi and over, but open loop for 0 - 13 psi. Is that correct?

 

[Eric Stage I]

The low throttle adjustment will add/subtract fuel like normal. If you're using odd numbers (closed loop), you can move the number up or down to change how much correction is needed.

You are correct, there is no mid boost closed loop correction at this time. The boost changes rapidly in that area and it usually drives the correction nuts. I have mid boost correction in the 6.0 chip, but not in this one yet. I may add it in the future.

 

[Jerryl]

Okay, so if low throttle is an odd number it's in closed loop. The documentation doesn't state whether there's any difference between low throttle closed loop odd number (119, 121, 123,1 33, 145, etc...) Does the amount of the odd number make any difference?

Also another question, there's low throttle closed loop and WOT closed loop, but I haven't seen anything regarding Mid Boost closed loop. In other words I'm seeing closed loop for vacuum and for 13 psi and over, but open loop for 0 - 13 psi. Is that correct?

Actually, I think it does.
Don't worry, I had to study the sheet a few days since there is so much you can do with it!

A direct copy of wat is listed on the TT site (Property of TurboTweak®);

Parameter 1 – WOT Fuel
This adjustment affects fuel above roughly 13psi. When first running the chip, start with the boost low
(around 15-17psi) and work from there. Monitor your A/F ratio and add or subtract fuel as necessary. The
chip will add fuel as the boost rises (all the way to the max of the MAP sensor), however engines have
different volumetric efficiencies which may require you adjust the fuel. If you’re running in closed loop mode
using a wideband, you can use this adjustment to get the correction closer to 128. For example, if your
correction is running high, say 145, then increase this parameter to 145.

Parameter 2 – 1st gear WOT Fuel Offset
This adjustment affects fuel above roughly 13psi when MPH is under 35. If you’re running in closed
loop mode using a wideband, I would leave this parameter at 128.

Parameter 3 – WOT Spark Advance, Low Gear
Adjusts WOT timing higher or lower than the default timing in 1st/2nd gear only. By default, the
scantool will display 128, which is 0° change. Higher than 128 adds timing, less than 128 subtracts timing.
Moving the number to 154 adds 9° timing. Moving it to 102 subtracts 9° timing. For this adjustment, 1 number
= .35 degrees.
This parameter has a dual function. If you add timing, and use an odd number, the added timing
will be delayed until about 1 second after full boost is reached. This is mainly for alcohol injection, where it’s
good to allow the alky to cool the combustion chamber before the higher timing is activated. If you use an
even number, the timing will be applied immediately, blending in starting around 5-10psi.

Parameter 4 – WOT Spark Advance, High Gear
The same as parameter 3, except for 3rd/4th gear only.

Parameter 5 – Mid Boost Fuel
This adjustment affects fuel in the 0 to 13psi range. Usually this is adjusted to be as lean as possible
without knock. If you go too lean, you will lose power and it may spool slowly. The same thing can happen if
it’s too rich. I typically try to achieve an A/F in the 12.0 area for mid boost. With alcohol injection, you may
need to reduce fuel here so it doesn’t get too rich.

Parameter 6 – Low Throttle Fuel
This adjustment affects fuel during normal driving (not under boost). Usually this is adjusted so that
the A/F is in the 14.0-15.0 area most of the time. Don’t worry if it’s a little richer or leaner at times, as long as
the car runs ok.
This parameter has a dual function. If you have a wideband O2 system connected to your
Powerlogger, you can set this parameter to an odd number, which will enable closed loop control. This will
turn on closed loop for idle and low throttle only. It is set to a default target A/F of 13.5 at idle, and 14.5 at low
throttle.
If using closed loop, you can monitor how much correction is being applied on the Powerlogger by
looking at “X-Counts”. On a Scanmaster you can look at “CC”. There is a correction range of 105 to 170, with
128 meaning no correction. Below 128 means fuel is being subtracted, above 128 means fuel is being
added.

Parameter 7 – Overall System Fuel
This is an overall fuel correction that is similar to adjusting fuel pressure. It affects everything from
idle to WOT fuel. This is used to compensate for differences in engine displacement, fuel types, etc. To run
E85 fuel, you can set this to +30% to start tuning.

Parameter 8 – Highway Fuel
Adjust this to achieve your desired A/F when cruising. This setting takes affect when load (LV8) is
less than 100, and MPH is above 50.

Parameter 9 – Idle Fuel
This controls idle fuel. RPM must be below 1300 for this parameter to take affect. I would adjust this
once the car is fully warmed up. Adjustments to this parameter will also affect cold start. So if cold and hot
idle both seem too rich or too lean, adjust this first.

Parameter 10 – Cold Start Fuel
The adjustment will allow you to add or reduce fuel during the cold start routine. Go as lean as
possible without causing the car to stall when dropping it into gear.

Parameter 11 – Accelerator Pump Shot
When you stab the throttle, a bit of fuel is squirted from the injectors to prevent a dead spot (tip-in
stumble). This is called acceleration enrichment fuel (AE). You can get a stumble if AE is too little or too
much. If you have a tip-in stumble right when you press the throttle from a stop, try increasing or decreasing
this parameter. Make large adjustments at first to see the effect, then fine tune it.

Parameter 12 – TCC Forced Lock MPH
By default, this is set to 128, which turns OFF WOT locking of the converter. If you want the
converter to lock at full throttle, set this to whatever MPH you want. Be careful! This can be hard on the
converter and transmission.

Parameter 13 – Knock Retard Ignore
Some cars exhibit a “false knock” condition which can be caused by hard launches, etc. This
parameter allows you to set up conditions to ignore false knock, so that timing will not be retarded.
This parameter has a dual function. The range of adjustment is 0-125. When using an EVEN
number, the numbers will represent MPH. So if you set it to 34, knock will be ignored up to 34 MPH. If you
set it to an ODD number, the number will represent TIME. So if you set it to 35, knock will be ignored for 3.5
seconds after full throttle. For TIME, always divide the number by 10, so 25 is 2.5 seconds, etc.

Parameter 14 – No adjustment
This location has no adjustment for now. It currently just displays some diagnostic data, just ignore it.

Parameter 15 – Shift Light (Service Engine Soon light)
Turns on the SES light at a set RPM. The adjustment range is 0 to 255. Multiply the number by 25 to
get RPM. If you set it to 200, multiply by 25 to get 5000rpm.

Parameter 16 – Target Air/Fuel Ratio at WOT
If you have a wideband connected properly to the Powerlogger, you can set a target A/F ratio and
the ECM will try to maintain that A/F. This is turned OFF by setting it to 99. Divide by 10 to get the A/F, so
115 is an A/F of 11.5, 105 is 10.5, etc.
You can monitor how much correction is being applied on the Powerlogger by looking at “X-Counts”.
On a Scanmaster you can look at “CC”. There is a correction range of 118 to 170 at WOT, with 128 meaning
no correction. Below 128 means fuel is being subtracted, above 128 means fuel is being added.
The idea is get the correction close to 128, but it’s not critical. You can change the base WOT fuel
using parameter 1. So if your WOT correction is running around 145, change parameter 1 to 145 which will
get the correction closer to 128.

 

[esinger]

Thanks Jerryl and Eric. What boost max boost level and alky knob setting you suggest I start with for WOT tuning. The Alky timing looks pretty cool on parameter 3, I take this is to cover not having to prime the alky everytime you think you're going WOT.

Typically for WOT tuning, I'd set the alky knob to 5 and boost to 23 (pre-ported heads) and start leaning it out to find the sweet spot (no knock and most power) then start upping the boost.

 

[Jerryl]

Thanks Jerryl and Eric. What boost max boost level and alky knob setting you suggest I start with for WOT tuning. The Alky timing looks pretty cool on parameter 3, I take this is to cover not having to prime the alky everytime you think you're going WOT.

Typically for WOT tuning, I'd set the alky knob to 5 and boost to 23 (pre-ported heads) and start leaning it out to find the sweet spot (no knock and most power) then start upping the boost.

Eric,
Very hard to give an answer as it depends on a lot of other factors, i.e;
Boost level, timing, target AFR, octane of gas/ethanol content, Baro, humidity, settings in the PAC controller, nozzle size, etc.
I would start at around 7, that way you have some flexibility. If you see KR, turn it up (You know the drill ). ….. Hope this helps.