Missing/popping @ 14lbs boost

You could also crank the car with insulated gloves or insulated plug pullers while the car is running pull one plug at a time to see if the engine idle or sound changes if you suspect a dead cylinder.. (I think you have to disconnect the IAC to do this though). dunno about the injector maybe a volt meter to make sure all are firing. Just to rule the simple stuff out before spending anymore on things.... just a suggestion....after you try the cam sensor thing Rick suggestion in an earlier post.
car runs fine all day and can drive it anywhere and it does not have a dead cylinder. But if you come up on boost it will start to spin the tires and once it shifts into 2nd and the boost is above 10 lbs it will start losing cylinders and popping. This is the same time the alky is on also. If I roll into it slowly it will run without popping. Just does it when I push the go pedal down quickly.
 
Was the chip purchased for the combo?
What does the WB say when this happens?
 
So to review, there is Type II coils on it that are new and the module is new. I imagine it's possible that even new you could have a bad coil. Are you sure you got a compatible module to go with those coils?
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ignition/type2coils.html
I replaced the module and the coils because it was popping. It had type 2 on it when I bought the car. Thought the coil was bad so I started throwing money at it and it started eating the money :)
 
I replaced the module and the coils because it was popping. It had type 2 on it when I bought the car. Thought the coil was bad so I started throwing money at it and it started eating the money :)
Got it but did you confirm the module is the correct one for Type II coils?
 
Got it but did you confirm the module is the correct one for Type II coils?
This is what I replaced the old one with, I think it is correct. Look just like the old one.

NOS 1986-1992 Ignition Module for GM Cars GM Part # 10456478 Delco # D1946A
 

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Well took off valve covers today. All push rods spin and no wiped cam. Now to start checking what else could be the problem
 
How old Are your valve springs ? What kinda pressure is on the seats? Open? Have u rotated the engine over with the valve covers off to verify your cam? Also I would check your fuseable links aswell as your main grounds . Some times the fuseable links don’t act up till u get into boost because of there location next to the hot ass headers .
 
Truthfully I have bought brand new coil packs that have been bad . Ok have you looked at your fuseable links & grounds? What did you buy from gn1?
 
I had the same issues that you describe.

What computer system do you have ?

What ignition system do you have ?

Carried my car up to Brain Lorenz and had him dyno tune it. One of the things he did was move the cam sensor a few degrees.

Depending one either of the systems you have, you can see the cam phasing.
 
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