Missing/popping @ 14lbs boost

Have you tried unplugging the cam sensor like was previously mentioned?? That can cause this issue if the sensor is faulty or not timed properly
I have not unplugged it as I was wondering if it would or could cause a problem. The car runs great and then just starts this. Car ran great before all this started and now I have been chasing the problem.
 
The crank sensor scrapping can cause this. It will eventually crack the sensor body and break if it's rubbing and it will strand you on the side of the road. BTDT.

With the car running, take a video and put the camera down close to the crank sensor/balancer area.
The sound you are listening for is a higher pitched plastic on metal, intermittent screeching sound, that varies with rpm. IE: speeds up as the rpms increase. I've learned to listen for it and know it when I hear it. It very well could cause these symptoms of the it cutting off for a split second and firing back up while cruising. There is a crank sensor setting procedure out there on multiple sites but I prefer the one that Vortexbuicks has. IIRC, the air gap between the reluctor rings (3 of them on a stock balancer) and the outer most notch (furthest away from the connector) is .025" on both sides of the ring. Most people use a match book or credit card to check, but the feeler gauge is the best. You gotta verify all three rings pass without any rubbing. A good up close visual inspection will show signs of it rubbing.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm

If all of your electrical wiring checks out, as you have tested, this is where I would look next. Especially with it cutting off intermittently while crusing. If the crank sensor is good to go, pop the cap off the cam sensor and check it's magnet for cracks. Also, make sure the phillips screw is tight on the reluctor ring on it as well. I've never seen a broken cam sensor kill ignition intermittently, but I have seen it cause popping under WOT.

-Patrick-
 
I ordered a crank sensor, should be hear in the next few days. Hope to install it this weekend. Factory Ac Delco one.
 
I checked all the fusible links they are all good went to replace the crank sensor and the old one fell apart looks like it has green corrosion inside pictures attached
 

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Did not fix the pop. Just the cutting off.
 

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Another thing to check out is pin out G and L on your ignition module harness. L is the cam sensor ground and G is the crank sensor ground. Years back this created a similar issue as yours. What I ended up doing, was splicing a pig tail into those 2 wires and grounding it to the block. It fixed my ground issues and the popping I was getting under boost. While your looking into the grounds, check the ones at the back of the intake and make sure they are all intact and not broken or fry from the loops they are secured with. Don't just visually inspect them. Take off the 9/16's bolt that is securing them to the intake and pull them up where you can check each one individually, clean them with a scotch bright pad or sand paper, and fasten them back up.
 
I would say anywhere there's 30 year old connector there's a potential problem. Fully 90% of all the problems I've had have been traced to connectors. Even a slight amount of corrosion that can't be seen can cause problems. If the pins are round I squeeze the female ends to make them a little tighter, if they're flat i this the male ends slightly. Almost always works.
 
It looks like you are running a little on the lean side. Not sure if it's from fueling or ignition breakdown.
 
Did you unplug the cam sensor and see if it clears up?
I unplugged the cam sensor this weekend. Car did the same thing, except the check engine light was on. Did 2 test hits and same thing happened.

thinking about replacing type 2 ign with stock type. Will I have to have any brackets for mounting plates or will a stock setup bolt right to what I have now.
 
Did you happen to paint the base of your ignition module bracket? If not, try taking off the 3 bolts securing the ignition module from the bracket. Use a scotch bright pad and clean up the contacts (at the 3 bolt holes) as well as the contact that the bolt makes to the bracket at the back of the fuel rail. Grounds are very important with these cars. The ignition module uses the base as a ground.
 
Check the actual cam sensor ring it may look all good but in reality the tab is broken off and can be spinning loose
 
It is fixed!
Replace the type 2 igntion with new factory ignition and the runs great. Thanks to all of the help and thanks to person that sold me the stock setup that fixed my problem
 
Thanks for letting us know what ultimately fixed your problem. Too many times the thread dies with no post about what finally resolved the issue. Glad you got it all worked out.
 
Yes I wanted to follow up as this may help someone in the future. At least I got to know more about my car as I have checked Everything.
 
It is fixed!
Replace the type 2 igntion with new factory ignition and the runs great. Thanks to all of the help and thanks to person that sold me the stock setup that fixed my problem
Yes, you mentioned that in the first post. Looks like no one caught that. Glad you found the issue.
 
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