Missing/popping @ 14lbs boost

[mikestertwo]

Reset crank sensor

Had a customers car with the same issue. The crank sensor was touching the reluctor wheel.

 

[Scarab]

I will check the crank sensor, thanks, also my car has had the following done so far since this started out of no where.
new plugs gapped at .28
New module AC delco
New coils MSD
new wires MSD
checked rocker arms and found no indication of wiped cam lobes on my 218/218 comp
car has stock ecm and powerlogger, te 60 turbo, 60lb injectors 5.7tt chip for alky. ect.

 

[Scarab]

 

[Scarab]

Here is a better video of it running. And no there is not a crack in the head. That is RTV off of the valve cover bolt.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Just for the hell of it, move the alky power wire to a different port in the fuse panel.

 

[michael evans]

Just for the hell of it, move the alky power wire to a different port in the fuse panel.

My alky worked better when moved it out of the fuse panel and to the power strip I made (off the alternator).

 

[TurboBuRick]

My alky worked better when moved it out of the fuse panel and to the power strip I made (off the alternator).

Back in the day I had a similar problem. I chased it for a while. Eric Marshal figured out the the alky pump was messing with the maf signal causing the car to break up when the alky was activated. I moved the feed wire to a different port in the fuse panel and the problem was gone.

But that's definitely a better source of power. I have all my accessories hot wired.

 

[ttypewhite]

On your alky kit. Disconnect or cut the green wire from the PAC controller going to the map sensor. Sounds like your controller on the alky kit went south. That is the exact same symptoms I had earlier this year. Bought a new controller from Julio and I was back in the groove again. Your going to have to put in another chip without alky to test this out, because cutting that wire means no alky, and your chip is expecting that alky.

 

[No disintegrations]

Its popping at 14 psi right? That's stock boost level. What boost does it normally run? Did you ever check fuel pressure while running it under load and see it rise with boost?

 

[Scarab]

On your alky kit. Disconnect or cut the green wire from the PAC controller going to the map sensor. Sounds like your controller on the alky kit went south. That is the exact same symptoms I had earlier this year. Bought a new controller from Julio and I was back in the groove again. Your going to have to put in another chip without alky to test this out, because cutting that wire means no alky, and your chip is expecting that alky.

cant I just unplug the harness going to the map? I just bought a tt 5.7 street chip to try without alky. Would that work?

 

[Scarab]

Its popping at 14 psi right? That's stock boost level. What boost does it normally run? Did you ever check fuel pressure while running it under load and see it rise with boost?

going to do that as soon as I get some time.

 

[Scarab]

ok update on this, I have been sick so I didn't get to do a lot but I did some testing, Installed a tt 5.7 street chip and disconnected the alky. Car still pops but I did find out something that is interesting. Driving down the highway about 60 mph the car wants to shut off for a split second and then runs great again. What I mean is you can feel the engine stop firing then it start right back and is smooth. Can a crank sensor do this? Seems like it is losing reference to fire. I am thinking this could be the entire problem but I have never seen one do this. Most of the time they give you a no start.

 

[Pronto]

Look carefully at all the wiring from battery cables to rear of the head grounds to make sure there's nothing going on with that aspect.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Shuts off when you lift throttle or as you are crushing with steady throttle??

 

[Scarab]

Shuts off when you lift throttle or as you are crushing with steady throttle??

I was just driving steady and it shut off for a split second and then back on. it did this about 10 times coming back home. But I made it back and it pulled in the shop fine. It still starts good but it did shut off once in the shop idling and started right back up. On the road you could feel it loose fire for a fraction of a second and then it would do it over again. I replaces all the grounds before I drove it so that is not it. I am really wondering if the crank sensor could cause this?

 

[Fat Nat]

I was just driving steady and it shut off for a split second and then back on. it did this about 10 times coming back home. But I made it back and it pulled in the shop fine. It still starts good but it did shut off once in the shop idling and started right back up. On the road you could feel it loose fire for a fraction of a second and then it would do it over again. I replaces all the grounds before I drove it so that is not it. I am really wondering if the crank sensor could cause this?

Check to see if battery wire is touching header. We're it runs to the starter post

 

[dynoman]

My car did this at the TB .com nats this year . I had a bad connection at the ECM , everything looked ok , no corrosion , contacts seemed good . I had to run with the ECM propped up with a moving blanket to keep it from cutting out . If it is doing this you can see it while logging if you have a powerlogger . I ended up getting both connectors from Caspers Electronics and replaced the old ones , problem gone !! The Caspers pigtail is very nice with all the proper colored wires , just replace one for one .

 

[TurboBuRick]

Do you see the ce light come on at any point when it dies and comes back to life?
Along with above advice, make sure battery cables are tight. Play with the orange wire by the battery while its running. Move it around, shake it etc. Also cycle the ecm plugs a few times to refresh connections. Wiggle the ecm around while it's running as well. Has to be a bad connection somewhere..

 

[Scarab]

Do you see the ce light come on at any point when it dies and comes back to life?
Along with above advice, make sure battery cables are tight. Play with the orange wire by the battery while its running. Move it around, shake it etc. Also cycle the ecm plugs a few times to refresh connections. Wiggle the ecm around while it's running as well. Has to be a bad connection somewhere..

no lights came on, removed the ecm and wiggled it around while running., No effect. All cables tight and clean, just went thru them chasing this problem along with replacing the grounds.

 

[frankg]

Have you tried unplugging the cam sensor like was previously mentioned?? That can cause this issue if the sensor is faulty or not timed properly