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My 1st 2010 Log...

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wow, is that a slipping trans? seems like its alitte rich as well but tunning with 02's sucks.
 
Yeah, it flared going into 3rd...:( Start off rich...its safer. I see tha alky timing delay until 20 MPH too.
 
It's not all that bad J. Looks rich. A wideband would be nice.

Is that a 2-3 flare? :confused:
 
(wideband) Yeah, I may give the LC-1 a try again. New, and installed like you did that other car. How is his working out? Any issues with his?

I will try one thing before I take it back to him. The flair was a WTF moment! No 2nd hit due to a 2nd exhaust leak now. Had a small repaired spot open back up early in the week. Pushed out a remflex gasket on this test run.:redface: Well that enough to keep me busy for the week ahead.
 
You can see turbulence in the maf at the top of the run, and the rpm oscillates, seems like a misfire from maybe too rich, or valve float, but more likely tuning. Get the lc-1 and the wide band chip. Best thing you can do.
 
(wideband) Yeah, I may give the LC-1 a try again. New, and installed like you did that other car. How is his working out? Any issues with his?

I will try one thing before I take it back to him. The flair was a WTF moment! No 2nd hit due to a 2nd exhaust leak now. Had a small repaired spot open back up early in the week. Pushed out a remflex gasket on this test run.:redface: Well that enough to keep me busy for the week ahead.

No problems with the recently installed lc1. Sensor and controller location are key. ;)

You run header gaskets? :eek:

Let me know if there is anything I can help with.
 
You can see turbulence in the maf at the top of the run, and the rpm oscillates, seems like a misfire from maybe too rich, or valve float, but more likely tuning. Get the lc-1 and the wide band chip. Best thing you can do.

I saw that too. I was wondering what was the cause. I run a 4" intake tube and a 3" LT1 maf. It has one screen and no filter(Quiet Rick!) It is the 6.0 chip but I am using it in the Non-WB mode cause my other LC-1 gave me issues. I think it shifts too soon also cause its a hyd roller not a FT.

No problems with the recently installed lc1. Sensor and controller location are key. ;)

You run header gaskets? :eek:

Let me know if there is anything I can help with.

I will need you to install the bung in the DP, weld the cracked header and maybe get me a WB. Its so hard to tear it apart in nice cruising weather.:tongue: The builder put nice gaskets on it, but I screwed them up trying a set of headers that I didnt end up using. I had no leak from the ones he used, just have to get replacements.

I wonder if a deep pan would help my trans issue? I works well and that was an unexpected flair. Shifts hard, kick down is perfect, but it may need to be shifted.
 
It would send me error codes. I would start the car and it would not be working. Then while driving, it would just start working. Then the exact opposite. Start the car and would be working, then it woud go into error while crusing. Had a few logs where it was great, then one where I didnt log and it went into error after I came out of WOT. I could not risk it failing in the middle of a run so I just started using it as a 5.6 type. I don't want to send it back to Eric to change it for a different WB because I lkike driving it so much and hear the LC-1 can work. It was mounted by the blower motor, and I tried two new sensors. :redface: I was reading it through the scanmaster and all the connections were fine. Tried different grounds, no change. Sensor was not too close to the turbo. It was farther that most Big Dollar ECU users locate theirs. I have had the car make a clean pass with no knock, 730 O2s at the stripe tuning with just a scanmaster so I know it is way rich as it stands. What are your thoughts?
 
Blue light flashing indication faulty sensor code. Replaced it, same story. It was just crazy. It would work sometimes for the whole day. Other times not at all. Did numerous searches the issues, went to their forums, and spent evenings scratching my head.:D
I would try letting it warm up before cranking, and other weird things to make it happy. I recalibrated it so many times I didnt need instructions and kept a 7/8 under the floormat.

I replaced the gasket on the passenger side now just need to fix up the small one on the drivers side.
 
I would say its a defective lc-1 controller. I find the Lm-1 running with lc-1 settings working, well. I have no issues like your describing, but i have it set up only to turn on after a few second delay after the oil pressure comes up to avoid spiking the unit while cranking.
 
Well I put my race chip back in and pulled some fuel. Also fixed my exhaust leak. It felt stronger out if the hole and I didn't have to make any adjustments to the Alky Control settings. More 1st & 2nd timing, still on the rich side, even added more boost to the mix. My goal is 30psi...:eek:. I do have a transmission issue that will be addressed tomorrow or Monday. My builder Jimmy, is standing behind his warranty and wants to get it right for me, but said I may need the 400 back. I still see the MAF going crazy but think it is due to the slippping of the trans. Looks as if the boost falls off due to the slippage and once the boost fell enough it grabbed the next gear. I figured the flare going into third was going to show up but the slippage from 1 to 2 was a surprise. I was disappointed by the slippage and felt no need to batter it anymore. By the time I get it back a new LC-1 will be waiting. I will get that in and head for the track to do more testing.
 

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