my 80 regal limited

[WarWagon]

You said it! There are only a handful of Kadett's and Manta's here in the states that I have found, Usually rotted out very bad, I've seen a few nice ones but they are not for sale. I once found a really nice Kadett Rallye here in the US.... again not for sale. I have not seen any NA pistons like that in buick engines. I wonder what kind of pistons they are? The ones I've seen look similar with the dish and all just no nipple sticking out like that.

 

[futten]

charlie sayed it was from the casting

 

[charlief1]

charlie sayed it was from the casting

Yep. Early design casting. I've found them myself in the first of the even fire engines and the odd fire. Don't know whay the did it though.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Yep. Early design casting. I've found them myself in the first of the even fire engines and the odd fire. Don't know whay the did it though.

im confused....

what about these pistons?

and why Charlie... are you telling him to get longer rods and pistons?

A.j.

 

[futten]

he told me to get longer rods and SHORTER pistons ya ninny and what pistons are you reffering to doc`??

 

[dr_frankenstein]

he told me to get longer rods and SHORTER pistons ya ninny and what pistons are you reffering to doc`??

yea but charlie doesnt need to tell you about those. you will understand later.

I was asking about pistons that came out of your motor? something about them being odd fire style?

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

yea but charlie doesnt need to tell you about those. you will understand later.

I was asking about pistons that came out of your motor? something about them being odd fire style?

A.j.

Odd fire and early (78 only) pistons Aj.:biggrin:

I sugested the longer rods and shorter pistons since he's NA. It would help him some and since he's trying for a 10+ to 1 compression ratio this would reduce the knock issue and increase the power. Tor told me the lowest octain they have over there is 95 so he should be good to do just about what ever he wants to.:biggrin:

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Odd fire and early (78 only) pistons Aj.:biggrin:

I sugested the longer rods and shorter pistons since he's NA. It would help him some and since he's trying for a 10+ to 1 compression ratio this would reduce the knock issue and increase the power. Tor told me the lowest octain they have over there is 95 so he should be good to do just about what ever he wants to.:biggrin:

yea but were talking about picking up 1/18th of a horsepower for probaly 1000 dollars worth of parts.

Smokey proved it years ago that there was no major difference in the buick when it came to rod stroke ratio. While its known that dwell time increases, it hurts performance more than it helps, as a long rod motor has POOR breathing signal and is favored by optimum heads rather than the stock S hit ports.

for NA, he is giving up more than its worth.

the main advantage to US Charlie, with the long rods is that the extra rod stroke ratio helps to UN-load the sidewalls of the cylinder. which reduces friction, but also aids in allowing the block to absorb less of the side loading caused by the piston. Thus, allowing for a high boost level potential and greater durability on the rotating assembly. BUT Boost allows for us to do this.

hence, the change to ON-Center blocks to minimize the effects of both.

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

yea but were talking about picking up 1/18th of a horsepower for probaly 1000 dollars worth of parts.

Smokey proved it years ago that there was no major difference in the buick when it came to rod stroke ratio. While its known that dwell time increases, it hurts performance more than it helps, as a long rod motor has POOR breathing signal and is favored by optimum heads rather than the stock S hit ports.

for NA, he is giving up more than its worth.

the main advantage to US Charlie, with the long rods is that the extra rod stroke ratio helps to UN-load the sidewalls of the cylinder. which reduces friction, but also aids in allowing the block to absorb less of the side loading caused by the piston. Thus, allowing for a high boost level potential and greater durability on the rotating assembly. BUT Boost allows for us to do this.

hence, the change to ON-Center blocks to minimize the effects of both.

A.j.

Well the other catch to this is a faster reving engine and extra torque. Not argueing here Aj and it's pretty much a moot point, but I've found the pistons for the 6.5" rods are easy to come by and just under $500. I just haven't found a decent priced set of rods yet.:frown: Wish someone would make some decent pistons for a 6.625 rod though.:frown:

BTW, did you get the link I sent you on the 4" pistons? Never got a comment about them from you.

 

[futten]

ive been lookin a little more in to custom pistons to make sure i get the 10:1 compression but i dont want to exede 12 i want it to be a easy starter and bee able to run on 95-98 octane

 

[charlief1]

Before you order pistons you need to get the block and crank to the machine shop and have everything checked out. Once it is then you need to have the block squared and get the deck height. Then you need to know the CC of the combustion chambers and the exact stroke legnth. Then you can order the pistons the way you want. This may seem confusing but all these factors are needed for the manufacturer to make the pistons.

 

[futten]

uuhm i think ill just do it the easy way and get some kiethblack pistons for the 3 liter then :|and save me some money

 

[charlief1]

Sounds like a plan Kjetil.

 

[futten]

guess i gotsta do like ya`ll sayed at the beginnin heheh. and gotta give comp camps a call again about that roller cam spec carb they were to email me

i measure the header ports and head exhaust ports and the header ports are about 5/16`s taller then in the head should i port the head or modify the header?

 

[futten]

FINALY the custom fan shroud is finished i had my cousin make me me a aluminum fan shroud to go with the electrical fan to get air trough the whole rad not just around he fan if it were directly mounted to the rad core but the bastards ground down the welds GRRR so i guess i need to sand smooth the grinder marks ans the scotch bright pad it to get the satin finish there will be some aluminum parts in the engine bay like expation tank which i already have the washer fluid tank valve covers probably an external power steering fluid tank

 

[charlief1]

Use the gaskets as a guide for the ports on the head. Don't use the headers, but compair the gasket to the header to make sure there's a match.

Like the way the shroud looks and it should be pretty effective for you.

 

[futten]

the gasket is smaller then the header ports so they don match so should probably modify the header ports put a little ramp on the bottom of the tube so theres a smooth transition

 

[charlief1]

Clean up the heads first, then worry about the headers. Take a pic of how the gaskets fit on the headers so you can show the mismatch.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

stay away from the headers.

its good that they have that step. you will need it.

the step is helpful on the NA motors because this helps reversion. once the exhaust leaves the port and expands into the header tube its hard to go back the other way.

A gasket match on the heads would be your best bet.

A.j.

 

[futten]

spent some time in the work shop today after a dryspell of 2 weeks got some stuff done discovered at though mt charlie that the engine had spun a rod bearing an correct the #1 cylinder was .030 undersize and the 5 others were just .010 under and the main journals were also.010 under so i think all i need is new bearings the surfaces looked good. sadly to get the crank out the timing cover had to be destroyed two bolts the heads broke off i tryed to drill in from the side and spray WD40 in there but to no luck they were stuck in there pretty damn good so rusted/oxidized stuck were they that the bits with the bolts go trough i could crabbed with a pipe wrench and unscrewed the bolts with so pretty darn bad everything else was pretty good now last things i need to do is cut the last two windows out take the door windows out and dash and i should be all set to start welding