My latest... Thrust Bearing

[mtocrs1]

I rechecked the end play and got .006. Right in the middle of the spec. I think I may just run it as is. I don't know what difference replacing the bearings would make. It will just happen again if nothing else is changed.


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[Chuck Leeper]

The copper showing, along w/ the scratches, is what I'd refer to as dirt ingestion.....
Could also be that the micro polish was not done well enough to get the crank surface smooth....

 

[Steve V]

Nib Clevites...all my FMs are grey/silver.

 

[baby6]

Chuck, any advice for him as to maybe buffing the crank thrust surfaces a little to see if that helps?

 

[mtocrs1]

I probably won't be able to just slap it together. My conscious will get the best of me. I called the machine shop to get a second opinion. I will have them take a look sometime this week.


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[PSID6]

I probably won't be able to just slap it together. My conscious will get the best of me. I called the machine shop to get a second opinion. I will have them take a look sometime this week. I think what happened was someone did not properly set thrust clearance when it was assembled. When you are assembling you have to check both shells separately and then together as a whole. For example you put the block shell in first and check it and let's say you have .006 clearance. That's great right, till you put the other half in the cap and check it again and it's a .003 Your crank is now only riding on one half of the thrust surface it's supposed to be and it will wear that shell till it gets to the .006 you saw originally. I have seen this numorous times building engines and the worst is when you are dealing with caps that are not original to the block. When you run into this problem you have to lap your thrust bearing on a surface plate or a nice known flat surface until she comes in with the same number. Hope this helps


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[mtocrs1]

It does help thanks. When you lap the thrust bearing do you end up in the copper?
If that was the case, does it really matter at this point? If you lap off .003 vs my crank did it for me. As long as the journals are good will there really be an issue?



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[PSID6]

It does help thanks. When you lap the thrust bearing do you end up in the copper?
If that was the case, does it really matter at this point? If you lap off .003 vs my crank did it for me. As long as the journals are good will there really be an issue?



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No it does not matter. When you lap the thrust, if not showing copper already it only takes a few strokes to get the copper to show depending on the brand of bearing used. I would lap what you have just to true up the surface with 1000 grit and WD40 clean with lacquer thinner and recheck

 

[mtocrs1]

No it does not matter. When you lap the thrust, if not showing copper already it only takes a few strokes to get the copper to show depending on the brand of bearing used. I would lap what you have just to true up the surface with 1000 grit and WD40 clean with lacquer thinner and recheck

Thanks for the info. I am going to check the thrust play with the cap removed.
One more thing. This engine has ARP main studs installed. It is the biggest pain I. The ass to get the caps on correctly with the studs. I removed the studs and used stock hardware and everything is just so much easier. Anyone have a trick to installing the caps with the studs installed. A few taps with a deadblow perhaps?


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[ek02]

Tap lightly with a plastic hammer. Try to keep the cap even on both sides. Getting them off with studs is usually harder than putting them on.

 

[bison]

Post a close-up of the bearing inserts


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[PSID6]

Thanks for the info. I am going to check the thrust play with the cap removed.
One more thing. This engine has ARP main studs installed. It is the biggest pain I. The ass to get the caps on correctly with the studs. I removed the studs and used stock hardware and everything is just so much easier. Anyone have a trick to installing the caps with the studs installed. A few taps with a deadblow perhaps?


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Unfortunately you have to check your thrust clearance with the studs and yes you can use a dead blow hammer

 

[dr_frankenstein]

if the original engine had ARP studs and your doing all of your reference measurment with stock hardware your going to be off. Studs and bolts pull differently.

 

[mtocrs1]

Well I talked to the machine shop and they agreed that the thrust bearing will show copper. Thrust checked within spec with everything bolted back up.


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[mtocrs1]

Removed front cover to install the new rollover cam and the cam bearings look like crap. Not sure what to do now. It's always something. Can can bearings be replaced with the rotating assembly installed?


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[mtocrs1]

And then this on my brand new cam.....

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[Steve V]

Removed front cover to install the new rollover cam and the cam bearings look like crap. Not sure what to do now. It's always something. Can can bearings be replaced with the rotating assembly installed?


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You can replace #1 cam bearing. Thats usually the one thats ate up. Post a pic of it. Are your exhaust guides cut down for extra lift?

 

[mtocrs1]

Yeah my heads have been worked over.
I will try to snap a pic later but it's cam bearing number 2 I'm worried about. It looks like someone scratched it up really good installing the cam. The cam came out really hard, they usually just pull right out with little effort. This one need force and it spins hard when spinning by hand.


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[mtocrs1]

After my first round of turkey I'm going to compare how hard it spins to my other short block.


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[Chuck Leeper]

After my first round of turkey I'm going to compare how hard it spins to my other short block.


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Cam bent?
1. Need to put it in a lathe and check for run out.
2. Cam brgs are in crooked? What do the wear patterns look like?
3. Time to start fresh....