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need a program for gen 6 dfi 72#

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JPN800

Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Messages
145
like the title says i need a program for a gen 6 with 72 # inj. I'm tired of waiting for my local shop to have time to tune my car... No names :D
 
Are you tuning with a wideband? You just can';t slap a program in and expect it to work. Is it batch fire or sequential?
 
i never tuned before so i have no idea of what i am doing, i do not have a wb 02 and i will be pluging into my car for the first time tommorow. Im not looking for a all out program but a good starting point or if you can give me some pointers on what to look for, would work for me also. Thanks jp
 
I have a program for 55's just as a startup. I'm sure it will work for 72's if i take a bit of fuel out of it. I Will work on something tomorrow for ya. But its so critical to get wideband on these older dfi's, becuase you really can't tell how rich or lean it is accurately. You can go be the o2 numbers but as you get into the 11.xx fuel ratios its not the best way and spell disaster easily. ALso too rich and it will be a dog. I am working on a narrow wideband control that will assure you good gas mileage cruising and some automatically real time correction wide open, to help save things, but still a few weeks away.
 
Sounds like you got some good parts there. This file must be placed inside the unvrsl folder within calmap. Copy the file to the floppy first by itself then right click it and press copy . Click on my computer, c drive, calmap, unvrsl folder then put the file in there. by right clicking paste. right click the file below and save as it will look like a text file but dfi will open it.

72 program


if you have trouble pm me
 
ok i put it in the universal folder, ill go play around with it later and let you know. thanks again
 
ok i put it in but its running rich, how do i take more fuel out of it at idle? anything i do i cant save that particular setting only the whole file and it doesnt save my changes. :confused:
 
Just save the base fuel map in a file. dont use long filenames or spaces in the names. When you do a change it should be in the ecu instantly. Where ever you see the box moving at idle you must press "e" to edit or space bar then move the cursor with your arrow keys type in your number and press enter. Ignition key must be on always. Lower the cells around idle by one number at a time as its very sensitive and the surrounding cells influence the others. This is where the you need the lm-1 to see the a/f at idle in gear you should shoot for 13.5~13.7 and expect the idle to be in the 11.5 a/f range out of gear. Only thing that can help you is the racetronix fuel injector harness hot wire kit to stabilize the idle a/f
 
i think its safe to say i have no clue on how to tune this thing. Ill keep trying and let you know how it goes. If you can PM me your phone # or i will give you mine it may help things a bit . thanks
 
When you say you don't know how to tune it, just how basic are we talking here? You do understand how the box works right? You basically have to tell it what injector pulsewidth you want at any operating point, it isn't smart enough to figure that out for itself. That's what the base fuel map is. A matrix that covers all the rpms and all the manifold pressures, and you have to enter an injector pw for each and every point. And the pw you enter is what you'll get when the engine is operating at that particular rpm and MAP. And if the value you enter is too big or too small then your engine will be rich or lean at that point. Or do you know all that, and you just don't know how to get the box to take your adjusted values?

Here's some base fuel maps I generated as a starting point to get a car fired up and ready to start tuning: http://pages.prodigy.net/buickv6/CarStuff/DFI Gen6 Base Fuel Maps for GN.pdf
Between the 72 map I created and the one norbs sent you you ought to be able to get a feel for the range of values you'll probably end up with. As norbs said, looking at a wide band will be a big help in dialing it in.

John
 
John how did yo come up for the basis of those numbers in your maps. Did you do pw data from factory ecm's with different injectors?
 
please tell us how you are trying to make changes step by step
 
norbs said:
John how did yo come up for the basis of those numbers in your maps. Did you do pw data from factory ecm's with different injectors?

Naw, nothing so complicated. It's from a spreadsheet that does a speed density calculation. Set up a grid with the rpm and MAP points, assume a VE and a manifold air temp, gives you an air flow at every point. Use that in conjunction with injector size and desired a/f ratio and get the inj pw required. Convert pw from ms to DFIs format. Voila - base fuel map that should fire the car up and let you start tuning. It's the same steps that a FAST or Gen 7 box does.

VE table I figured up from some datalogs I got from a guy with a stock GN, fudged upwards some to allow for better heads/cam. MATs for the air flow calc aren't terribly critical for the purpose of getting it to run, so I assumed 80F ambient and then tack on some based on the MAP and an assumption for compressor and IC efficiency. A/F ratio table is basically what I think makes sense, a little rich actually to help protect things while they start tuning.

Once the spreadsheet is set up it's easy to get a starter map for any car, any engine, any size injector, 1 2 or 3 bar map sensor. Just change a few inputs, massage the VE and a/f ratio table a little, and there you are, ready to fire it up and start the real tuning.

John
 
oh, and another thought - if you have the MAT sensor located in the up pipe and a wide band you can log your MAP, MAT, rpm, pw and a/f ratio data and develop a VE table for your car, if you are interested in such things. It's just doing the same calculation, backwards. It might be instructive.

John
 
ok i was able to make some changes but the ignition timing is at 14 btdc and i wanted to change it but how much do i go ? and what other changes do i make?
 
Becareful, it is at 14 degrees for a reason. Due to the way the dfi sees the timing signal through the module the timing is minimum 4 degrees off up to 6 degrees sometimes. So your 14 could be 20 or 18 degrees, and if you look at the map it is 14 degrees at 30 psi boost. You can go more but you better be on c-16!
 
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