Need Guidance with Roller Cam and Lifters Install - First Timer

PTFE if Teflon. You know the shit, nothing sticks to.

At this point stick the cotton swabs in there and then install the engine. Talking and theorizing will never get your car running.
Talking and theorizing will never get your car running.

Not true. Oh...maybe your TR doesn't have that option. Most people think it's for something else, but I have the rare TT5 option (see pic). It's pretty slick...if you Talk and Theorize for 5 days+ on any given issue, the car fixes that issue by itself. So we've been TT5in' as I like to call it, on this issue for 2-3 days now. We gotta keep TT5in' for 2-3 more, then I'll be good to go.

The adjustable righthand sideview mirror option is cool, but I prefer the TT5.


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Did a trial run on one stud. For the most part, it went very well. I started with one of the mops, soaked in brake cleaner. The fit was perfect...nice and tight. I had to pull it straight out so I wouldn't unscrew the brush at the handle. I also ran the nylon and bronze brushes down the hole as well. Did 3-4 passes with the mop and the same with the bristle brushes. They came out clean in the end. I don't have compressed air, but I do have a small rubber hose, so I just blew air down it a few times with my lungs to evaporate any residual brake cleaner.

Cleaned off the stud very well with brake cleaner and applied the sealant, and reinstalled (with a bit of fresh ARP lube on the washer and nut). Piece of cake. Of course time will tell, but confidence level is fairly high I cleaned the threads sufficiently. Though the cotton mops let go a bit of fuzz when pulling out, it's not enough to concern me. I don't think any make it to the water jacket. Plus, I did a fine pass with the bristle brush, which grabbed a bit of fuzz left in the hole. With the sealant and the tabs, I think I'll be fine.

My future sequence will be to do an initial pass with the mop to coat the hole with brake cleaner, then wire to get into the depth of the threads & break it up, then another brake cleaner soaked mop to pull it out, then a final wire brush to pull up any fuzz left over by the mop.

I took a short vid, which I'm uploading now onto youtube...will post when done.
Those crickets are telling you something...
(I go through periods of lack of motivation, hence the delays)

So, I worked on the rear main cap this morning. While removing one of the side seals, I noticed that the metal pin, or whatever it's called, came out to the outside of the seal (see pic). It's supposed to run along the inside, but was bent at the top from the hammering during the install. I wonder if this is where it was leaking oil.

But I'm concerned about the install. I put a thin coat of RTV on the inside of the side seals (after cleaning everything up), lubed everything up, installed the cap, wrenched the bolts only snug, then hammered in the new pins, and that caused the seals to push out about a 1/4". I'm afraid that's leaving a space at the top now.

I'll try to push the seal back up, but I'm not too optimistic...with the pin, it's now very tight.

And (sigh)....I bought a torque wrench that maxes out at 85 lbs. I see the specs for the main cap bolts is 100. Well, I do have a coupon for 25% off a single item at Harbor Freight. Might have to use it to buy another torque wrench. Or maybe I'll return the smaller one, and just buy the big boy.


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I use Harbor Freight on a lot of stuff... but I don't think I would trust a HF torque wrench on sometime so important as main bolts.
I use Harbor Freight on a lot of stuff... but I don't think I would trust a HF torque wrench on sometime so important as main bolts.

Was curious about that, so I goog'ed an independent search. These guys were surprised to find that the HF torque wrenches were quite accurate...but they said the key to keeping them accurate was to return them to the base setting when storing them.

My problem is...I think the wrench I need is probably $80 (it is online, anyway). It sure it difficult to pay that for two damn bolts. I'll call and confirm, but may see if I can borrow my mechanic's...and give him a few bucks loan fee.
Any updates ,just wondering how it all turned out ?

Right. After doing the rear main cap and bolting the heads on, I stalled a bit, so I reconnected with the original mechanic. The main issue originally was not having all the parts available for him to complete the job. Since I had since acquired them, we renegotiated to have him complete the job (for basically the remainder of the original cost).

So I had it towed back up to him. He tells me he'll be putting it all back together within the next few days. I gave him the pushrod length checker, and he'll be ordering them from Cotton's.
Welp...that did it. Add one set of Champion Irons, 1.0 roller cams (212/212), and top it off with a liberal slathering of roller rockers, and...*NOW* I have the motor that I envisioned, as far as power output!

To recap: I originally intended to have my "general" mechanic Ken R&R the original heads for the Champions months ago. He quoted me a hot price, so I gave it to him and he swiftly tears the motor down, to discover the cam was bad. Because of the delays in getting parts, and a bit of impatience, Ken got frustrated and told me he was canning the project, and left me with the motor torn down (we agreed that I just pay him 1/2 of the originally negotiated price, so that was fair enough there). He was doing the project out of his garage, so I couldn't blame him too much.

So I thought at that point I would attempt to continue the work myself, hence starting this thread. After much discussion about the cam (why it wiped), debate as to whether my motor was toast due to debris, I determined that my motor evaded damage. I also decided that I was no longer a fan of flat tappet cams, being that evidently, zinc or no zinc, they are prone to wiping. So I go for a roller cam, which meant roller rockers as well (to do it right).

One very minor problem there. I discovered I was having a motivation problem on the project. I managed to bolt on the new Irons, but probably because of my lack of experience and concern that I wouldn't do it correctly, I found myself uncharacteristically procrastinating...hard. Then it occurred to me - at that point, I had all the parts. That was Ken's main point of contention, initially. So I thought I'd approach him again and see if he wanted to resume the project. He basically said, "Sure, but it'll be a couple weeks". That was fine by me...I had been putting it off already for months, and he was fine with me just paying him the remaining half of the originally agreed-upon price of $400. In my mind, paying him $200 to complete the project was *nothing*. I told him I'd give him $250...just 'cause. And...I had cleaned the deck surface and bolted the new heads on. But I knew he had quite a few hours of labor to complete the job, and even $250 wasn't going to be too hot of a deal for him.

I drop off the car to him at the end of July, right before I go on vacation with my son for 10 days. He told me he should have it completed by the time I return. Well, I just got it back last night. I'm actually not complaining one bit. He had some family issues come up, and again...being that I was getting such a good price, my patience was excellent. He needed some guidance from Jack Cotton on getting the cam button situated properly, which is understandable. And likewise with the custom-length pushrods. But he got it done, and the end result is extremely impressive.

At first, under light throttle, I didn't notice jack. Maybe even a bit of a lag when in "grandma mode" due to the high pressure valve springs. However, "allow" it to develop any boost whatsoever and it most non-begrudgingly states, "as you wish", then eagerly exhibits a majorly bountiful quantity of notably smooth, rich and creamy...oh, what's that stuff called again? Right - POWER.

I'm going to be very bold at this moment, and make the claim that it feels like HP increase with the new mods is: 50 (without changing the boost; still at ~19-20 psi).

And the other good news, so it appears, is that the significant oil leak at the rear of the motor has been resolved. For those unfamiliar, I had a significant oil leak ever since day one from getting the car back from having the motor rebuilt (~3" diameter puddle after running). The drive home from Ken's place is 25 minutes. After an hour sitting in the garage, I return the first time, and...not a single drop. I was stoked. I then went for a "performance" drive after that, and admittedly, turbo boost production was involved. I did notice two single drops of oil afterward, but considering the 20 psi, that's still very good.

We do have a head-scratcher though. The fuse for the fuel pump has blown twice already. It blew within the first 5-10 minutes max after we first fired it up. I was just decelerating on the road when it died. Fortunately, I noticed that the FP wasn't priming when attempting to restart it. The 25-amp blew, so we replaced it. It made it the 25 minute drive home, with an hour break, then another 20 minute drive, and blew again. And I was doing almost the exact same thing, decelerating, cruising, and/or braking. So I don't think it's happening because of heavy throttle. I'll have Ken get into it, but I'm thinking it might be more along the lines of using the brakes (wires crossed?). Odd though, that it lasted just a few minutes the first time, but almost a half hour the 2nd time. Anyone have any other thoughts on what could be causing that?

Anyway - A) Very pleased to finally have it done, and B) Impressed with such significant power gain. Oh, and I just remembered something just now!!! Some of you may remember that it was falling flat on the power output in 3rd gear. I only ran through 3rd gear at heavy throttle once, but I just remembered that at the top of this one hill, I was flying up it like I never have before, going what seemed like 15 mph faster.