need help, very frustrated!!!!

87ponykiller

New Member
Joined
May 7, 2008
I have the following done to my car,turbo tweak alcohol chip, precision gt6157e turbo, motron 60 injectors, reds xp fuel pump with hot wire kit, adjustable fp regulator, gn1 performance air intake with a 3.5 ls1 mass air flow w translator, headers, g-bodys down pipe, 3 inch exhaust straight back w test pipe, smc alcahol injection. im sure theres more but u get the idea. I went to the track 2 weeks ago and on a set of bf goodrich drag radials at 24 pounds of boost ran a best time of 12.92 , theres lots of guys with way less done that have gone way faster with less boost, i just feel theres lots more in it. Heres my time slip.
r/t..... .989
60'.... 1.831
330... 5.309
1/8...8.229
mph... 84.07
1000... 10.758
1/4.... 12.92
mph.... 103.73
 
need info about the intercooler ?

what's tuning numbers ?

which scan tool you use ?

cp

Exactly. You can have all the best parts in the world and not have the right tune. You have a turbo tweak chip which is your best tuning tool. Use a Direct Scan next time your at the track and see what your O2's are on each pass. You can take fuel and timing in or out with your chip. You have a little bit more combo than I do and I tuned my car from a 13.00 to 11.14 that day just by tuning it with a direct scan and the chip. So you have the parts to get your car to a 10.90 easy. TUNE TUNE TUNE!!:)

Jason
 
I still have the stock intercooler, all i have is a scanmaster and im still kind of trying to get use to it. Will that be sufficent or should i try to get something else. Is it just the 02 millivolts i need to be concerned with? I found part of the problem, my stall converter was set up for 3800 to 4000 stall speed, its now set up at 3200.
 
I still have the stock intercooler, all i have is a scanmaster and im still kind of trying to get use to it. Will that be sufficent or should i try to get something else. Is it just the 02 millivolts i need to be concerned with? I found part of the problem, my stall converter was set up for 3800 to 4000 stall speed, its now set up at 3200.

Well, Yes the scanmaster you need and its ok. The 3200 converter sounds good for your combo. I wouldnt go over that. How big is that turbo? You should monitor your O2's and see what they are at the top of each gear and at the end of the track (traps) if its over 820, you can back your fuel down in your chip one step at a time and you should see improvements. Erics chips are ball park to your combo but he designs them for YOU to fine to it. The Direct Scan program is the cheapest and easiest way to tune it. Like I said, I thought my car was tuned until I took it to the track and used the direct scan and saw how to tune it. from 13.0's to almost 11.0's. I never popped my hood.
 
Im having trouble finding someplace to buy the direct scan. I have found the power logger available, can i do the same things with that, will it let me adjust the chip settings?
 
yes it will and its a awesome tool. You can get direct scans on here in the For Sale section.
 
I changed my plugs and did a compression check and came up with the following cyl 1-145
2-130
3-135
4-125
5-100
6-135

does anyone know if these are within acceptable limits?
 
I changed my plugs and did a compression check and came up with the following cyl 1-145
2-130
3-135
4-125
5-100
6-135

does anyone know if these are within acceptable limits?

Your a little low on the compression. You mentioned you are running headers. Which ones?
 
Compression numbers for #5 cylinder is way off.

How many miles on the motor? Motor could be tired.

Have you replaced the valve springs? If you still have stock springs in there I would first start by replacing them. Then try doing another compression test. If #5 is still low then chances are the motor needs to come apart.
 
Suggest you use WB info to tune with. That NB could get you in trouble, really fast.
 
I have the ebay headers that you have to make fit, the valve springs are original, the motor has about 85,000 miles on it but i knew the previous owner before me and he drove the car real hard, as do i.
 
I have the ebay headers that you have to make fit, the valve springs are original, the motor has about 85,000 miles on it but i knew the previous owner before me and he drove the car real hard, as do i.

:eek:
:eek:
:eek:

I would change the valve springs PRONTO.

They are notorious for being real weak.... even with low miles....

I changed mine to Comp 980's when I was running a flat tappet cam.... did it myself... in-car.....

IMHO.... put the stock manifolds back on.... headers are not needed on these cars until you go in the 9's...... and there are plenty of people in the 9's running stock headers..... the headers are killing alot of low end..... just ask 88ZNX.....he just swapped back to stock headers a few weeks ago...

Also... compression is low at 100lbs... but I would re-run a check after changing valve springs....

Your tune must be way off... cause your MPH is way down.... I ran about 108 mph with the stock turbo...
 
Your motor has been abused from a lack of tuning, usually when #'s 5 or 6 are that bad it's AF/R and detonation from under octane.

You have a couple options but that motor is on the way out for sure. If you stick with it and want to beat it into submission then get a wideband like Chuck suggested, start with lower boost and go from there. Valve springs for sure and are you using a manual boost controller?

The 1/8th MPH is low and that can be a tuning issue or a spool up/traction issue if the car's spinning after the hole shot.
 
I have a regular adjustable wastegate and a rjc racing boost controller, traction and spinning are def. not the problem so it must be tune.
 
Your motor has been abused from a lack of tuning, usually when #'s 5 or 6 are that bad it's AF/R and detonation from under octane.

On your next engine get a RJC Power Plate. These engines naturally run lean on cylinders 5 & 6. The power plate corrects this imbalance.
 
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