New 109 build.

[PHANTASM]

after the old motor broke the crank i decided to use some left over parts for my rebuild.

cat steel crank
two center mains
forged speed pro pistons
plasma moly rings
resized and polished stock rods with arp bolts
bhj balancer
jw flexplate
ported heads

here are a few pics. will post as it gets assembled

 

[Squid4life]

Looks great. I always love new builds!

 

[jasjamz]

Calculate the compression ratio with those parts. Depending on the gaskets, and chamber cc you may end up under 8.0:1. Nothing more boost won't fix.
Looking good!

 

[turbofabricator]

Probably too late now, but I would suggest using K1 rods for your build. The stock rods bend pretty easily. Also in the future, the stock rod bolts are real durable. I have never seen a broken rod bolt but lots of bent rods. Woulda saved you a few bucks reusing the stock bolts. The rest of your build looks good. Good luck with it.

 

[PHANTASM]

starting reassembly

 

[Squid4life]

Looks good! Something sexy about fresh cross-hatch lines in the cylinders.

 

[PHANTASM]

MORE ASSEMBLY PICS WITH A DIFFERENT BLOCK

 

[turbodave231]

I notice that you are using an RJC spacer on the oil pump pickup. Are you using Jason's deep pan too? Have you clay checked the depth of the pickup into the pan??

I found that with Jason's spacer the pickup is about 3/4" off the bottom of the pan. The pickup needs to be about 1/4" off the pan bottom. I took an old pickup and cut the flange off and welded it to a new pickup just like you are using. This put pickup right where it needs to go. I also had to trim the drain plug. It is too long and sticks up into the sump and may hit the properly located screen.

You didn't say if this is a stroker crank. If so, the crank may hit the windage tray. The tray needs to be a bolt in design so it can be adjusted up or down. A bolt in tray also allows the better cleaning if problems occur.

I've told Jason about the problems with his pan.......I don't think he believes there are problems

 

[PHANTASM]

finally got it running and it runs pretty good. oil pressure is 60 lbs cold and drops to about 15 hot. i have a real cheap electric oil presswure gauge so i am going to check it with a mechanical one to be sure. also fix the factory brass tee fitting for the ops switch as the threads are fubared and seep oil.
also the blm is pegged right at 145 and o2 reads lean. might try a new o2 sensor or check for a small vac leak.

this has been a real nitemarish engine build and probably the last 109 build for me. ls engine next time.

wish me luck.lol

 

[PHANTASM]

yep that windage tray needed to be bent slightly as the crank just barely hit it with the oil pan all the way bolted up.
also the pickup is the same as yours and approx 7/8" off the bottom of pan.

I notice that you are using an RJC spacer on the oil pump pickup. Are you using Jason's deep pan too? Have you clay checked the depth of the pickup into the pan??

I found that with Jason's spacer the pickup is about 3/4" off the bottom of the pan. The pickup needs to be about 1/4" off the pan bottom. I took an old pickup and cut the flange off and welded it to a new pickup just like you are using. This put pickup right where it needs to go. I also had to trim the drain plug. It is too long and sticks up into the sump and may hit the properly located screen.

You didn't say if this is a stroker crank. If so, the crank may hit the windage tray. The tray needs to be a bolt in design so it can be adjusted up or down. A bolt in tray also allows the better cleaning if problems occur.

I've told Jason about the problems with his pan.......I don't think he believes there are problems

 

[FastDiesel]

Probably too late now, but I would suggest using K1 rods for your build. The stock rods bend pretty easily. Also in the future, the stock rod bolts are real durable. I have never seen a broken rod bolt but lots of bent rods. Woulda saved you a few bucks reusing the stock bolts. The rest of your build looks good. Good luck with it.

your wright i would have never used the stock rods

 

[PHANTASM]

your wright i would have never used the stock rods

for what i will be doing with it it should be fine.

never heard of the breaking and i am sure i won't be pushing it too often as it will be a cruiser.

i already had the parts and didnt see the need to spend more.

 

[turbodave231]

Here is my fix for the pickup length problem

 

[GNDriven]

finally got it running and it runs pretty good. oil pressure is 60 lbs cold and drops to about 15 hot. i have a real cheap electric oil presswure gauge so i am going to check it with a mechanical one to be sure. also fix the factory brass tee fitting for the ops switch as the threads are fubared and seep oil.
also the blm is pegged right at 145 and o2 reads lean. might try a new o2 sensor or check for a small vac leak.

this has been a real nitemarish engine build and probably the last 109 build for me. ls engine next time.

wish me luck.lol

Man can you share a little more of your experience building the 109. Why did you say it was a nightmare and such? I have a friend going to try and build his own, and would appreciate any caveats. Thanks

 

[PHANTASM]

Man can you share a little more of your experience building the 109. Why did you say it was a nightmare and such? I have a friend going to try and build his own, and would appreciate any caveats. Thanks

This is my second one. 2nd one had a multitude of machine shop problems.that was the nightmare.

it wasnt that bad to assemble, time consuming from having to check clearences. i ported my own heads and set them up which equaled more **** to do also.
these cars seem to be tempermental.

just make sure to check clearences and dont assemble it without everything being right on. only do it once and then enjoy the car.