EightSecV6
MDBL
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Not certain but I would bet that one is for a billet roller (odd fire nose) But I have not looked in the catalog.
Bill
new Comp Cams?
- Thread starter JDEstill
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Not certain but I would bet that one is for a billet roller (odd fire nose) But I have not looked in the catalog.
Bill
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My guess would be the "roller cam only" button is not spring loaded but the threaded one used with billet roller cams? This would work if the end of the cam were machined, drilled and tapped, and the cover machined for proper end play.
It sucks owning a car for two years and having it run for 4 months
EightSecV6
MDBL
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Mike,
Dont know what updates you are looking for, we have used quite a few of these with no problems whatsoever. I think the guys that were having a problem with the lifter hitting was possibly a one time deal with a slight casting flaw, still worth looking at during installation. This cam cannot be compared to the old "econo roller", it is totally different.
Bill
Dont know what updates you are looking for, we have used quite a few of these with no problems whatsoever. I think the guys that were having a problem with the lifter hitting was possibly a one time deal with a slight casting flaw, still worth looking at during installation. This cam cannot be compared to the old "econo roller", it is totally different.
Bill
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The first one we put in was with a spring roller button. This allowed the cam to move enough to just touch an adjacent lobe.
Installed a Comp replacement roller last week using the solid button with shims and it works fine. No machining or other mods required.
Installed a Comp replacement roller last week using the solid button with shims and it works fine. No machining or other mods required.
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Bought the cam button from Precision.
I am sure the first cam, bought 3 at one time, is the same as the others. Could be the timing chain on the first install that allowed it to move too much?
Still would not do this cam without using the solid roller button with shims.
I am sure the first cam, bought 3 at one time, is the same as the others. Could be the timing chain on the first install that allowed it to move too much?
Still would not do this cam without using the solid roller button with shims.
EightSecV6
MDBL
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I use the spring roller and have had ZERO problems. I personally feel it has plenty of spring pressure to hold the cam against the thrust surface when idling, when above idle it naturally thrusts toward the rear of the engine, it does not "float" back and forth.
Either method will work.
Bill
Either method will work.
Bill
Kewl. I guess this cam gets added to my wish list, and if I ever have to take this damn engine apart again, I'll get one at that time. Heaven forbid 
re: the solid button from Precision
Comparing the pocket on the nose of my old PT&E econo-roller cam (where the spring loaded roller button or solid roller button goes) with a regular hydraulic cam, the old roller looks different. It appears to me that there is an insert in the nose of the cam that the solid button rides in. Can this insert be removed from the old cam for use in a new one? If so, just how would I get the insert out?
John
re: the solid button from Precision
Comparing the pocket on the nose of my old PT&E econo-roller cam (where the spring loaded roller button or solid roller button goes) with a regular hydraulic cam, the old roller looks different. It appears to me that there is an insert in the nose of the cam that the solid button rides in. Can this insert be removed from the old cam for use in a new one? If so, just how would I get the insert out?
John
Ok if you are going to get one of these cams make shure that your block IS NOT worn where the cam rides agienst the block,[where in enters the motor.
Mine is now out of the car because mine is,,, and places the cam too far back in the block. When I fire it the lifters pickup adj lobes and sounds like it is comming apart.
So if you are going to run one CHECK THE BLOCK it's not worth the pain in the a$$ to go through what I have.
Mine is now out of the car because mine is,,, and places the cam too far back in the block. When I fire it the lifters pickup adj lobes and sounds like it is comming apart.
So if you are going to run one CHECK THE BLOCK it's not worth the pain in the a$$ to go through what I have.
Russ Merritt
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Man.....What a nightmare. I have ATRs 212/206 in my car and it couldn't be easier. They don't keep a good stock though. A customer of mine showed up the other day with a wiped cam and wants Champ irons and a billet roller. Called all over looking for a bolt on billet kit and PT&E was the only one I could find that had one. Hope they have the bugs worked out as I would have waited for ATRs but he wants it yesterday! Here we go........ Oh by the way, HUGE MONEY! 
I have the car that Nick installed the comp cams 214-212 roller in, using the PTE solid cam button with shims, I am happy to report that it now has approx 5000 miles on it with no problems.
ed,
The spec card is as follows.
Part # 69-000-8
Gross Valve lift .508 int .503 exh
Duration at .050 214 int 212 exh
Lobe lift .3280 intake .3250 exh
Lobe sep 110
This cam is based on the design that is currently used in most passenger cars and trucks produced by GM as far as materials go, I doubt that anyone will see the problems that the budget roller had due to the differences in materials used.
ed,
The spec card is as follows.
Part # 69-000-8
Gross Valve lift .508 int .503 exh
Duration at .050 214 int 212 exh
Lobe lift .3280 intake .3250 exh
Lobe sep 110
This cam is based on the design that is currently used in most passenger cars and trucks produced by GM as far as materials go, I doubt that anyone will see the problems that the budget roller had due to the differences in materials used.
{Buzzard} Is this Jan? 5000 miles? Look people need to make sure there arn't any issues with the area the cam rides in the front of the block. If there is wear they are screwed just like me!My cam was the first to try to go in months ago but o-well. Glad yours runs well!!
Hey Jeromy this is Jan,
I just found some info that might help you on your block repair.
Some blocks can experience excessive wear on the front cam flange surface. If this wear is deep (.020" or greater), the block can be repaired using a "cam spacer" from Mondello performance (part # CS-120). This cam spacer is .040" thick and will create a new wear surface for the cam to thrust against; the spacer must be fastened permanently to the front of the block using epoxy (Marine Tex or JB Weld work fine).
I haven't tried this but it sounds promising.
Jan
I just found some info that might help you on your block repair.
Some blocks can experience excessive wear on the front cam flange surface. If this wear is deep (.020" or greater), the block can be repaired using a "cam spacer" from Mondello performance (part # CS-120). This cam spacer is .040" thick and will create a new wear surface for the cam to thrust against; the spacer must be fastened permanently to the front of the block using epoxy (Marine Tex or JB Weld work fine).
I haven't tried this but it sounds promising.
Jan
Yea but those slow pushrods are keeping me out of the 12's I think I'll ask Nick for some faster ones. 
Or it could be that I am afraid of blowing something up, it's nice to drive my car for a change. Someday I will have the guts to turn up the boost, or the wallet to support it.
Good luck, and let me know if I can help some more.
Or it could be that I am afraid of blowing something up, it's nice to drive my car for a change. Someday I will have the guts to turn up the boost, or the wallet to support it.
Good luck, and let me know if I can help some more.
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