New engine - what oil for break-in

[MSDGN]

I know not to use synthetic but what oil should I use for breaking in a new motor...I've heard some say use straight 30W and others say don't need straight weight...a multi weight such as 10W-30 will be fine...I was planning on changing it after about 50 miles and check the filter...I'm also going to dump a bottle of GM EOS in before start-up...by the way it has a roller so no cam break-in needed...

 

[machinegun]

I usually will use 10w-30 castrol GTX. Personally the flat tappet cam is more impressionable, but since you are using a roller, half your break in is not needed. I would drop in the castrol, go out run it some and change the oil after about 50 miles. Inspect the filter and oil. If all looks OK drop in some more castrol and drive for about 100 miles. Turn up the boost and enjoy. Change oil at 500, if all looks good drop in the synth and turn up the boost.

 

[getchasum]

I'm sure you’ll get many opinions. I used straight 30 weight for break in. However, my oil was changed 3 times by 100 miles. The 1st time was after the 30 min start up period, 2nd at 50 miles, then again at 100 and again at 500. I know....sounds a little anal.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by getchasum
I'm sure you’ll get many opinions. I used straight 30 weight for break in. However, my oil was changed 3 times by 100 miles. The 1st time was after the 30 min start up period, 2nd at 50 miles, then again at 100 and again at 500. I know....sounds a little anal.

Not anal, rather smart!

We basically do the same thing with 10-30 oil and EOS at all the initial changes.

 

[gsbuick65]

why so many times? the oil souldn't break down that quick and filter should catch any trash?

 

[bison]

why so many times? the oil souldn't break down that quick and filter should catch any trash?

The filter wont catch all the trash since the bypass will will allow unfiltered oil to flow through the bearings when pressures hit the limit for the spring you are running and the bypass is open. Only a plugged bypass or a different oiling setup that dumps bypass oil to the pan will prevent this unfiltered oil from circulating.

 

[gsbuick65]

so basically your flushing out the motor with fresh oil?

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
It seems pretty lame to constantly worry about this stuff.My opinion is, live with it.

 

[SS/GNX]

Be anal, protect your investment.

 

[d0n_3d]

I used 10w30 Valvoline non synthetic oil on my 212/212 Comp flat tappet break in...as soon as I started the car...I ran the rpms up to 2400 and kept it there for about 30 minutes...then after that I slowly went up and down varying the rpms for another 5 minutes...shut it off, drained the oil (which looked perfect with some break in material)....changed the filter ran the car for about 100 miles.....drained it, new filter...ran for about 500 miles, drained it, new filter.....then went the normal "whenever the oil looks dirty, change it" routine...no problems here after 2 years and many highway miles and track runs...I run 20w50 Valvoline VR1 oil now since I have a stock bottom end with 120k miles...great oil pressure

oh I forgot to mention I have the PTE oiling system on the car with a high volume front cover and pump setup...highly recommend the PTE oil system MINIMUM! the stock oiling system is crap...the PTE oil system allows use of a HUGE filter and provides FRESH filtered oil to the turbo at all times...the stock setup bypasses unfiltered oil to the turbo and that is not good on aftermarket turbos

 

[Underboost]

I ran Valvoline Racing 10-40 then switch to Royal Purple XPR 10-40 after 300miles

Talking with Royal Purple they said not to break in a motor with synthetic the rings will not seat.

Royal Purple XPR Extreme Performance and Racing Oils

 

[gsbuick65]

I used 10w30 Valvoline non synthetic oil on my 212/212 Comp flat tappet break in...as soon as I started the car...I ran the rpms up to 2400 and kept it there for about 30 minutes...then after that I slowly went up and down varying the rpms for another 5 minutes...shut it off, drained the oil (which looked perfect with some break in material)....changed the filter ran the car for about 100 miles.....drained it, new filter...ran for about 500 miles, drained it, new filter.....then went the normal "whenever the oil looks dirty, change it" routine...no problems here after 2 years and many highway miles and track runs...I run 20w50 Valvoline VR1 oil now since I have a stock bottom end with 120k miles...great oil pressure

oh I forgot to mention I have the PTE oiling system on the car with a high volume front cover and pump setup...highly recommend the PTE oil system MINIMUM! the stock oiling system is crap...the PTE oil system allows use of a HUGE filter and provides FRESH filtered oil to the turbo at all times...the stock setup bypasses unfiltered oil to the turbo and that is not good on aftermarket turbos

do you know how much spring pressure your running on your heads?

 

[d0n_3d]

When I first installed my brand new GN1 heads with the cam...I had Champion install lighter springs to help ease of cam break in (I think they were 979's or 980's). After I broke in the cam and ran the car for a while...I had to take the heads off again because of a blown headgasket (my own fault). I sent the heads back to Champion to have checked out and the surfaces decked. He then installed the stiffer 100 lb springs. According to the paperwork that came with the heads...the springs are 1.250" Dia. installed at 1.750", 100lbs seat pressure

 

[d0n_3d]

also it says "The valve springs on the GN1 heads are for use with Hydraulic Flat Tappet camshafts with a maximum of .500" Valve Lift. A change in camshaft design, (Hydraulic Roller or Solid Roller) or valve lifts exceeding .500" will require a change in valve springs. The cylinder head may also require machining. All such changes will require checking for valve spring coil bind, retainer to seal and piston to valve clearances."