new engine

[garrett]

I just installed a new engine in my 87 GN. I had it built 20 over with hypereutetic pistons and a complete engine kit from Poston enterprises. The kit included a 107T flat tappet cam and street/ strip moly rings. ARP studs were used throughout and ARP rod bolts. The rotating assembly was balanced and the heads had some mild porting with the bigger valves. This is a street engine that won't see anything more than 20 lbs of boost with alcohol. I used Royal Purple break in oil on initial start up with one bottle of ZDDP. I ran the engine for 25 minutes at 2000 RPM. The engine never went over 210 degrees on the Scanmaster and sounds smooth and quiet. I know the break in oil is very thin as far as viscosity. This RP product is fairly new to the market. I see some steam or smoke escaping from the valve cover breathers when I shut it down. I have only let it idle in the driveway for 5 minutes , a couple of times. I had a rear brake cylinder that had gone bad while the car was sitting for the last year, and I had to fix that issue. I look forward to taking it out on a short drive this week. I will not be boosting the car until I put 200 to 300 miles on the car and change to a regular oil + ZDDP. Should I be concerned with the vapors escaping from the breathers? How long does it take for everything to seat and settle in?

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Ive put 450 miles on my blue limited with the fresh motor and still havent flogged it. 8-12psi and its stupid fast

Its a girdled 109 with je pistons. I never drove the car till i put the new motor in, so i have to get the meth kit working right, and make sure the fuel pump is working perfect, then the ignition.. ect ect.

Id drive it around and change the oil right after break in, then 200 miles, then 1000, then change it every 2000 with mobile 10w30 or 10w40 non synthetic.

I would drive it with the RPM changing all the time for the first 100 miles, i would also give it a couple pounds of boost to get the rings to seat.

Make sure everything is good to go before you fully flog it.

Why stop at 20psi? With the right meth kit, 25psi is alot more fun

BW

 

[mygn276]

Make sure your pvc is not pluged. Other than that its comon for a LITTLE smoke out the breathes on fresh motor.

 

[garrett]

thanks

I used a brand new AC delco PCV valve as well as brand new sensors throughout, except for the Maf. I will be changing the oil in 200 with Valvoline race + ZDDP.

 

[garrett]

first drive

I drove the car for the first time in two years, tonight. It stayed cool -167 degrees. No idiot lights or funny sounds. The car seems to have a drag or resistance, like the rear brakes are stuck on. I had a hell of a time getting the right rear drum off the shoes when I discovered the leaking brake cylinder last week. Maybe the other drum on the driver's side is also on too tight. I'll have to check into that. I can't imagine how they got like that I just drove the car for about 10 miles and drove it like a normal car. Still working out the bugs.

 

[garrett]

Got leak

The new motor seems OK except for one problem. I have a rear main seal leaking. I supplied the engine builder with a neoprene seal from Postons and requested that he install it with the Right Stuff. He used this orange crap instead, and it is leaking. I have checked the motor really well and the only place that is not clean and dry is the inspection cover for the flywheel. I would really hate to have to do it myself, even though I've done 5 seals and none of them ever leak. After paying this guy a few grand, hopefully he will correct it. I feel alittle funny telling this guy who is a machinist and used to build motors for a respected NASCAR team, that he didn't install the rear main seal correctly. After 1 hour of total run time, the motor managed to leak one full quart of oil. I have to get it fixed soon before it makes the bottom of the car a greasy mess.

 

[forcedfedv6]

before you go tearing down the rear main, make sure you check valve cover gaskets, intake seal (specially around the corners and the oil pan gasket, either one of those could be leaking and they are a lot more easy to fix than the rear main, i drove my fresh engine 200 miles with the occasional 10 to 14 psi flog, then at 300 miles i took it on its main voyage of 20 psi, so far everything looks great and its stronger than ever..

 

[garrett]

oil leaks

I ran my fingers in the area where the knock sensor is screwed in and it appear clean enough to eat my lunch off of. I also checked the drivers side rear of the head, just below the valve cover, and same thing. Squeaky clean. I be shocked if it was my valve covers. I use a cork gasket, slathered in the Right Stuff on both sides. I pretty muched glued a freshly powder coated valve cover to the head. It would take a pry bar to get it loose.

 

[Tony Shoaff]

Talk to the engine builder about the leak? The engine will vent moisture until it is out of the motor through the breathers.

 

[mystic664]

Subscribed......Having a similar problem on mine(500 miles on new engine). Everytime I take it out I get a little oil build up on convertor cover. I hurt my back and have not been able to get under there and inspect whats going on. I hope its just loose oil pan bolts. Thanks for letting hop aboard your thread.

 

[garrett]

"Right Stuff"

I just wish he would have listened to me about using the Right Stuff in the first place. For those of you who have not used it and think that it is just like any other silicone gasket maker, your wrong. This stuff is different. Not only does it dry into a tougher -rubber like substance, but it sticks to metal like crazy.

 

[Just a Six??]

I just wish he would have listened to me about using the Right Stuff in the first place. For those of you who have not used it and think that it is just like any other silicone gasket maker, your wrong. This stuff is different. Not only does it dry into a tougher -rubber like substance, but it sticks to metal like crazy.

I Agree 100% The Right Stuff is very sticky to metal. Just try to remove a set of RJC VC Extensions after a few months! WOW!! They were STUCK on real Good! Great Stuff! I like the caulking tube style that I just use my caulking gun & lay a nice even bead.

 

[garrett]

leak

I got underneath the car and did some more investigating. It appears that the rear main area is dry and clean. The only oily area I could find was the rear of the oil pan gasket. The engine builder used one of those blue rubber seals, which totally suck. I will be removing the oil pan and using a cork gasket and the Right Stuff. That should fix it.:biggrin:

 

[turbofabricator]

I got underneath the car and did some more investigating. It appears that the rear main area is dry and clean. The only oily area I could find was the rear of the oil pan gasket. The engine builder used one of those blue rubber seals, which totally suck. I will be removing the oil pan and using a cork gasket and the Right Stuff. That should fix it.:biggrin:

I agree with your decision. Those dang rubber gaskets will only work if ALL oil is removed from the block and pan COMPLETELY!! If there is even a slight residue of oil/assembly lube, it will tear when torqued down. Cork is the way to go. I also use silicone on both sides of the cork gasket, too. I use Ultra-Black and have good luck with it.
Duttweiler, RJC, Fullthrottle, and most of the vendors on this board carry cork pan gaskets. Corteco, ROL, and Detroit have cork oil pan gaskets, for those needing them.

 

[Just a Six??]

RJC has the extra thick Duttweiler cork gaskets & they work well! Just got 3 more this week!