New GN with issues.

mattcsn

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
I just picked up my first 87 GN that has been sitting for 8-9 years. It needed a fuel pump that I replaced with a DW300 hot-wired and it fired right up. It idled great, but at hard acceleration would buck/stutter. After replacing the spark plugs (autolite AP25), vacuum hoses and air filter the car ran pretty good considering the amount of time it had been sitting.

After taking it for a quick spin it randomly spit oil out of the dipstick and now constantly leaks oil from the passenger side valve cover breather. Its getting oil into the intake and leaking from there as well. Its night and day how it drives now power wise. Still idles ok (maybe a slight tick) and engine wise seems to run well. I replaced the PCV (kirban) thinking it could be this, but still having issues. While the turbo still spools the car really lacks power. I'm at a loss as to what to do next as while I'm handy am new to these cars and turbos.

Turbo fins look perfect and there is zero shaft play. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Do you have a scanmaster? If not, you need one.

I guessing it has the stock maf. If so, Probably time for a translator and a newer style maf.

What is your fuel pressure with the vac line off the reulator? That dw300 is a pretty big pump with the stock stuff.
 
I wouldn't be hammering it until I knew it was tuned right. Oil out the dipstick could mean you have a lot of blow by in the cylinders. What chip is in the computer? Is the car all stock? How much boost you running? Do your homework before you start riding it hard.
 
From a rookie I’ll tell ya check the chip first and get a scanmaster ASAP. I thought I was running a stock chip and that sure wasn’t the case-can’t tune the TPS and IAC without a scan tool, so check the numbers and let these guys help you out. Without this site I’d be lost for sure.
 
Sounds like my next purchase is a Scanmaster! Is the 2.1 version what I need? Its basically a stock GN as far as I can tell and was told a DW300 would work for a stock car and handle some upgrades as I started. The kicker is it ran pretty good for awhile till it started blowing oil.

I will check to see if there is an aftermarket chip in the car. This is under the passenger side kickplate, correct?

Appreciate all the speedy responses and as soon as I get the scanmaster will be back for further guidance. Thanks again.
 
You claimed it has a slight tick, maybe check the stock headers for cracks as this maybe one reason for lack of power
AS many has mention, don't boost until you get a scanmaster and start to make adjustment as needed.
You can also start a spring cleaning: http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
Me personally, I don't use synthetic oil, just Conventional Valvoline VR1
What's the mileage?
 
Blowing oil out of the dipstick and the valve cover gasket is now blown? I'm almost certain you've blown a head gasket. Does it have a boost vacuum gauge? What is the vacuum at idle? You need to do a compression test, not buy a Scanmaster.
 
Blowing oil out of the dipstick and the valve cover gasket is now blown? I'm almost certain you've blown a head gasket. Does it have a boost vacuum gauge? What is the vacuum at idle? You need to do a compression test, not buy a Scanmaster.

Valve gasket is not blown, its leaking oil from the passenger side breather.
 
You claimed it has a slight tick, maybe check the stock headers for cracks as this maybe one reason for lack of power
AS many has mention, don't boost until you get a scanmaster and start to make adjustment as needed.
You can also start a spring cleaning: http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
Me personally, I don't use synthetic oil, just Conventional Valvoline VR1
What's the mileage?

Not sure of mileage, odometer reads 3k and I know thats not right.

Also no it does not have an aftermarket boost guage. Once I get the scan tool and back to the car I'll run it and update results along with a vacuum test.
 
It looks like you will be pulling the motor in the future. Sorry to say but you ether have a bunch of blow by passing the rings or you have a blown head gasket that causing pressure to build in the motor where there should be a slight vacuum. Do a leak down test that will tell you a lot of information. Throwing parts at it and guessing is fun for a second but it gets expensive and frustrating very quickly.
 
Valve gasket is not blown, its leaking oil from the passenger side breather.

There is a baffle inside the stock passenger side valve cover. If oil is still making its way out of there.... bad sign. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but head gasket replacement allows you to check the lifters on cylinder 3, put a set of ported irons on and fresh valve springs. Make sure you don't cheat, do both sides. Drop the oil pan to remove the blown gasket material or it will be stuck to the oil pickup.
 
Not sure what you did to get it running but the next thing I would do is a leak down test.

Put a pump pump pressure gauge on the fuel rail to verify idle pressure (42 psi with line off the regulator) and then tape it where you can see it while driving to make sure it raises with boost.

Not long after I got my car, the MAP sensor came apart and it caused the engine to lean out. It caused many problems but it was not until I replaced the engine, got rid of the factory computer (and replaced it with a FAST system), and changed a few other things before it was found.
So, that $100.00 part cost me over $5000.00. Now I know what to look for.

List what you have done and checked so maybe we can help.
 
Head gasket has crossed my mind but didn't want to believe it. I havent done much to the car as its 600 miles away and I only have a few days to work on it to try to get it home. Put in dw300, new spark plugs, fuel/air filter, PCV and replaced vacuum lines.

I'm going to start small and do some testing to find out if i can pinpoint it. I'm new at all of this so appreciate the ignorance on my part. First with a scan tool (will post results), vacuum test, fuel pressure and was thinking of cleaning the MAF.

If for some reason I messed up connecting the vacuum lines like forgetting a check valve or something would this cause the issue pressure issue causing blowby?
 
Im located in Indianapolis, but the car is in Virginia. Was thinking I needed to connect with some local knowledge. I'll be bringing the car back to Indianapolis (home) in a few weeks.
 
Top