You can type here any text you want

new guy ttype no start

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

andrews4691

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
5
hi all im new here, I have a 1987 t-type it was running fine i parked it, went to start it 2 day later nothing it turns over but no start. I pushed the valve in on the fuel rail no fuel. Changed fuel pump relay same thing. changed fuel pumps same thing. It has a fuel pump hotwire kit im getting power to the relay but not out. Changed that relay same thing. What am I missing? Please help. Curtis
 
Well, it's good you are getting power to the relay. There is usually an inline fuse near the alternator where your hotwire begins its journey. Yours is ok since you are getting to the hotwire relay itself. Are you sure the trigger wire and ground to the hotwire relay are good? Sometimes it is hard to get a good connection to that trigger wire in the trunk unless it is soldered. Jump the relay and apply power to the pump to see if it energizes. Where is your hotwire relay located since it varies from kit to kit?
 
the fuse is on the driver side fender well by the alt (that fuse is good) the relay is in the back on the back side of the bumper. there is no power coming from that relay. when it unplugged I have power to it but I cant get power out I tried a different relay same thing. the pump does not buzz or hum. Thanks Curtis
 
If the pump does not prime when you turn the key, it may be a problem with the orange wire to the ECM you disconnect when changing chips. 12V has to go to the ECM when you turn the key on, or no start, no fuel pump.
 
the fuse is on the driver side fender well by the alt (that fuse is good) the relay is in the back on the back side of the bumper. there is no power coming from that relay. when it unplugged I have power to it but I cant get power out I tried a different relay same thing. the pump does not buzz or hum. Thanks Curtis

Well, jump the "power in" on the relay to the wire powering your fuel pump to see if it energizes. That will tell if it is the relay or not. You really need to see if the ground and trigger wires are ok in addition to the orange ecm power wire (as noted a few posts above) before condemning the relay though.

Don't trust just any brand 30 amp relay. I once tried a white box relay from AutoZone and it failed in a few days. My recommendation is to go to a stereo store and ask for a Bosch 30 amp relay. Mine charged me $3 for one where Radio Shack wants $10 for a lesser quality unit.
 
If the pump does not prime when you turn the key, it may be a problem with the orange wire to the ECM you disconnect when changing chips. 12V has to go to the ECM when you turn the key on, or no start, no fuel pump.

+1, check the little orange wire that connects to the (+) battery post (ecm power)... there's a connection a few inches back from the battery... make sure it's connected/tight.... is the 'check engine' lite on when you turn the key to 'on'???
 
I had more or less the same problem, I thought Bad pump, relay, hotwire , etc etc.......I it was a bad ECM. Saved alot of money in finding problem. I had swap to the 86 ECM & TT chip. I'm sure it's just the connetion on yours tho, but that should be the area for no power to pump. IMO If anything, if you have a spare ECM swap it out or recheck the connetions for snug contacts.
 
Ok i have power on the orange wire. No check engine lite when I turn the key on. Thanks Curtis
 
Time to check to see if you have any broken pins on the ecm connector. Open up the kick panel on the passenger side and inspect the connection.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/ecmwiring.htm

Check pins a6 and c16. If you have power at both, your ECM kicked the bucket. :) You DID check the ign-ecm fuse in the fuse box, right?
a6 is from the ign-ecm slot in the fuse box. c16 is the orange wire from your battery directly to the ecm. Now I am thinking blown ecm fuse or a broken pin on the ecm connector.
 
Key on, no Check Engine light, means something is going on with the ECM...as stated above. Check the ECM/IGN fuse in the fuse block. If that is good, then try swapping the ECM. I had the same problem in my 87 T...good ECM one day, and kaput the next day. :mad: HTH ---Keith
 
there was power at the fuse (both sides). I unplugged the orange wire first then pulled the kick panel out unplugged the ECU and found corrosion in the plugs and the ECU. Ill try to clean it tomorrow. Crossing my fingers. Thanks Curtis.
 
Sounds like you found the problem... if the ecm does happen to be dead, you can pick one up in the local boneyard for $25-30, and swap your calpack and chip in and away you go... the 7148 ecm should be no problem to find in the boneyard.... applications list is in the 'junkyard dogs' section of this site...
 
I agree the others in this thread. I'm just one of those people who doesn't mind thorough troubleshooting. You learn so much that way. :) With all of the TR specific parts that are impossible to find, the ecm is easier to source. Are you leaking water in somehow and is there moisture in the kick panel area?
 
Time to check to see if you have any broken pins on the ecm connector. Open up the kick panel on the passenger side and inspect the connection.

ECM Connectors

Check pins a6 and c16. If you have power at both, your ECM kicked the bucket. :) You DID check the ign-ecm fuse in the fuse box, right?
a6 is from the ign-ecm slot in the fuse box. c16 is the orange wire from your battery directly to the ecm. Now I am thinking blown ecm fuse or a broken pin on the ecm connector.

Not to hijack this thread, but when installing a power logger onto my ECM, I found that the previous owner had added an additional 12VDC feed from the fuse box to the pink/black wire (a6) and had jumpered the orange wire (c16) straight to the circuit board around the connector. Is this some common or urban legend hack?
 
Well it was the ECM I picked up a rebuilt unit from work. Thanks for all the help. I did not see any water in the kick panel. I used a bunch of bulb grease just to be safe. Thanks again Curtis.
 
Back
Top