New install and 23psi on 91 oct.

[KEVINS]

Just got my new system all hooked up (Alchy Control, New TT Chip set for high boost, New 2800 PTC Converter, New O2 Sensor, New Audible Knock detetector) and I wanted to share some install pics.

I cannot get Methonol locally at this time of year so I had to use denatured alcohol which I bought at Ace Hardware just down the street from me. The first issue was that I could not build boost past 15 psi and with the Gain knob at 6 b/c this was flooding the motor so once I turned the gain down to 2 the car ran smooth when the alchy was flowing. After fixing the boost issue it is now at 23psi on 91 octane and the Gain is at 5 and no knock. My goal is 26 psi and I actually tightened the WG more but I haven't gone out again to test it out.
For the install I didn't like the steel braided lines under the hood, plus they were too short for what I wanted so I found some black 1/4" steel brake line at the autoparts store and routed the steel line along the Up-Pipe and across the intercooler then around the battery and down to the pump. I still use one braided line from the pump to the filter but from the filter to the nozzle it's all hard line.

ks

 

[DavzGN]

What do you have for motor mounts? I would be worried that the engine movement would flex the lines and cause them to break due to fatigue after a while.

David

 

[aminga]

Julio can get you longer hoses

 

[KEVINS]

I didn't want steel braided lines to be visible and these solid lines are not mounted so tight that they can't move with the motor/intercooler.

ks

 

[Razor]

Steel will rot with alcohol. Stainless wont.

Why not simply cover the braided line with black heat shrink? And order a longer one. I can make a hose any length up to 1000 ft. On my TTA I had the hose routed under the lower radiator hose, back through the turbo oil feed line area, and coming up in front of the passenger valve cover. Nozzle was then pointing back and no visible lines. Used DEI heat sleeve due to the proximity of the turbo.

Get rid of the steel line. That will be a fail.

 

[Razor]

Since you posted pics.. I see a few things that need to be addressed

1) You put a T fitting in the line going to your fuel pressure regulator. If any part of that T setup fails, you'll pop the motor. Use a single piece of fresh vacuum tubing and zip tie both ends. If you want a place to T your boost gauge or other accessory, do it on the line going to your charcoal cannister. Its the tube that points torwards the drivers fender behind the alternator. This also applies to the 3 bar map and its hoses. Fresh hose.. zip tied on both ends.. no drama.

2) Get some breathers for the valvecovers or you'll kill the rear main seal. The motor cant breathe(evac crankcase) as its setup. Cannot have too many breathers.

3) Ditch those hose clamps and update them to T bolt. Those factory black ones will not handle the boost.

4) Get some methanol. Dig around for it. You'll find it.

 

[aminga]

You might want to ditch the fram filter too.

 

[Razor]

The boost controller hose is plugged.. that should go to the factory solenoid or use an aftermarket controller.

Kevin is going to hate posting pixs from now on

 

[KEVINS]

Since you posted pics.. I see a few things that need to be addressed

1) You put a T fitting in the line going to your fuel pressure regulator. If any part of that T setup fails, you'll pop the motor. Use a single piece of fresh vacuum tubing and zip tie both ends. If you want a place to T your boost gauge or other accessory, do it on the line going to your charcoal cannister. Its the tube that points torwards the drivers fender behind the alternator. This also applies to the 3 bar map and its hoses. Fresh hose.. zip tied on both ends.. no drama.

2) Get some breathers for the valvecovers or you'll kill the rear main seal. The motor cant breathe(evac crankcase) as its setup. Cannot have too many breathers.

3) Ditch those hose clamps and update them to T bolt. Those factory black ones will not handle the boost.

4) Get some methanol. Dig around for it. You'll find it.

5) The boost controller hose is plugged.. that should go to the factory solenoid or use an aftermarket controller.

Thnx for the info.

1. I prefer to have the boost gauge read what the fuel pressure is seeing so I tee’d it there. This to me is a better fail safe in case I do forget to put the line back on plus a drop of superglue keeps things on.

2. The passenger side has a breather in it but I admit I’d like to have one on the passenger side.

3. Will do.

4. There is only one place that even sells race fuel locally and he says that there’s only one place that has Meth near Lincoln (Eagle Raceway in Eagle Nebraska) and they are not selling it until sprint cars start running. It can ONLY be sold “legally” if it comes out of a filling station pump and they have a pump. I still want to call them and see if I can get up there and get some on a weekend. More research is needed on my part.

5. My Grainger Valve spring was soft and it would not produce more than 15psi so I bypassed it altogether and I plugged the line. Right now the exhaust pressure blows the wastegate puck open at 23psi.

Ya know, I even KNOW that alcohol is corrosive to steel…. BRAIN FART….DUH!
So how much for a 5ft piece of braided line?

Now, can someone figure this issue out? This is very important and I’m lost:
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/constantly-need-to-reset-chip-before-driving-it.374651/

thnx Guys
ks

 

[Razor]

Thnx for the info.

1. I prefer to have the boost gauge read what the fuel pressure is seeing so I tee’d it there. This to me is a better fail safe in case I do forget to put the line back on plus a drop of superglue keeps things on.

2. The passenger side has a breather in it but I admit I’d like to have one on the passenger side.

3. Will do.

4. There is only one place that even sells race fuel locally and he says that there’s only one place that has Meth near Lincoln (Eagle Raceway in Eagle Nebraska) and they are not selling it until sprint cars start running. It can ONLY be sold “legally” if it comes out of a filling station pump and they have a pump. I still want to call them and see if I can get up there and get some on a weekend. More research is needed on my part.

5. My Grainger Valve spring was soft and it would not produce more than 15psi so I bypassed it altogether and I plugged the line. Right now the exhaust pressure blows the wastegate puck open at 23psi.

Ya know, I even KNOW that alcohol is corrosive to steel…. BRAIN FART….DUH!
So how much for a 5ft piece of braided line?

Now, can someone figure this issue out? This is very important and I’m lost:
http://turbobuick.com/forums/threads/constantly-need-to-reset-chip-before-driving-it.374651/

thnx Guys
ks

5 ft line is 31.25 with ends pressed on. Call and order

I'll take a look at the link you have.

 

[KEVINS]

Thanks Julio.. I think I got it figured out. The DS cable from at the DS box was partially disconnected.

I went for another spin tonight and I'm up to a rock steady 24psi of boost with the stock turbo. I don't know how much more air it can push but O2's are 790-800 and no knock on Denatured Alchohol. I recorded a few runs on DS since I got it working so I'll review the readings.

Since you can make me a feed line any length I'm going to re-think how to run the line and I'll get back to you!

Thanks for all your help!
KS

 

[KEVINS]

Julio,
Since I have your attention is there any way to keep the low level light from flashing on/off so much? Even when the system is full the sloshing around causes the light to turn on. I'm paranoid when I know the bottle is half empty and I see that the light goes on when I'm making a blast..

ks

 

[Razor]

Julio,
Since I have your attention is there any way to keep the low level light from flashing on/off so much? Even when the system is full the sloshing around causes the light to turn on. I'm paranoid when I know the bottle is half empty and I see that the light goes on when I'm making a blast..

ks

Full as in all the way to the top? Not full to the full mark on the side correct?

Few years back.. I made a delay circuit that required the float to be down for several seconds before the light went off. The problem was it offered no early warning. The light blinking in the slosh will let you gauge how much is left in the tank by the way it blinks. The lower the tank the more it blinks when liquid sloshes back and forth. Eventually turn key ON... and light is on.. better fill up.

 

[KEVINS]

Yep, to the top.
I guess I'll just have to learn to deal with the blinky-blinky.=D

ks

 

[KEVINS]

Update:
I'm up to 25 psi and denatured with the stock turbo now. Through 2nd gear the boost settles a tad over 24psi but once in high gear the boost is steady at 25psi. I got about 1.8-2* of KR once the car got settled in high gear and the O2's were 770-780 so I need to add some fuel. I got the knock after turning the gain down b/c the car was blubbering a tad at the top of 3rd gear. Once I turned it down the engine cleared right up but then I got some KR. Damn, I wish I had a hairdryer that can flow some air..=}

Julio, I still need to order 6ft of the feed line to the nozzle from you. I would also like you to put some black heatshrink over the entire braided line before putting the fittings on. I'll try to call you and get it ordered.

Kevin

 

[Razor]

Need to get you on methanol.

Call me when you need the line

 

[KEVINS]

Just an update:
Installed a new turbo (Precision 5831 and TT chip) and made two test runs tonight while working on high boost runs - One run was a rock solid 30psi in second and high gear and no knock on 91 oct. The second run unexpectedly pegged the gauge in high gear and thankfully everything is still working.....still no knock tho!

I gotta tell ya, 30psi is DAMN FUN!!

KS

 

[87-WE2]

Been watching your thread in the turbo section and waiting for results on the new turbo aand alky setup. I'm about to go alky also on A stock turbo, and was interested in what the 5831 would do. Post up either here or there - i'm dyin' to know!! 30# is almost twice my current boost!!! Gotta be a kick in the pants!!!!! Good job!

 

[KEVINS]

Been watching your thread in the turbo section and waiting for results on the new turbo aand alky setup. I'm about to go alky also on A stock turbo, and was interested in what the 5831 would do. Post up either here or there - i'm dyin' to know!! 30# is almost twice my current boost!!! Gotta be a kick in the pants!!!!! Good job!

I'll re-post my comments from another thread here and add some comments about the Precision 5831:

Day 1:
A loooong story short - This Grainger Valve boost controller just isn't cutting it anymore. I can't get it to monitor 30psi of boost with a crap. I set it up on the bench with my wg actuator and boost gauge to 28psi and it only gave me 25psi on the test run. I finally wired the whole thing closed like we4Mateo mentioned above to see what boost this turbo would produce and kept a VERY close eye on the boost gauge during the first run and it gave me a rock solid 30psi through second and high gear and DAMN that's what I've been wanting!! BTW, this was all done on 91 oct and alchy and the knock detector never went off the whole time.

The second run pegged the f'n boost gauge and blew the up pipe off and destroyed my hoodliner from the air coming out of the pipe. The motor is just fine so now I'm waiting for a new boost controller and new hoses/clamps to arrive so I can try it again.

I also ordered a Mityvac pump to come up with a way to get an accurate method for bench testing this system before making a high boost run.

I'm also looking for a good headliner if anyone has one for sale

Day 2:
I added another spring tonight to the factory WG actuator and with the Grainger Valve boost controller connected I went for a VERY cautious run and it briefly went over 30psi again so I shut it down. I backed the g-valve way off and the boost went back to 25psi but the boost was acting goofy bouncing around +/- 3psi so I shut it down. Hopefully I didn't hurt the head gaskets yesterday. I don't want to break that factory seal they have. I'll wait until the new controller arrives then I'll check all the vacuum hoses again then test it.
Notes on the new 5831 turbo:
The 5831 is great when the boost gets above 27psi and I pray I didn't hurt the head gaskets yesterday. I'm dying to fine tune this hairdryer to around 28-30 where I think this turbo will fly! There is more lag up to 4psi of boost but once it gets to 4psi it spikes the gauge real fast, even when the boost was set at 23psi.
If you're on the fence about getting it, DO IT and plan to run at least 27psi with alchy for the most fun. Don't tune your car like I tune mine. I grew up racing motocross so I have the mentality of "when in doubt, GAS IT" so I take very risky chances when tuning my car - like not sneaking up on the tune. Take your time and do it right and the car will run great. Also, take a note from me and make sure you have a GOOD boost controller. When going over 25psi you REALLY need to make sure everything works as it's supposed to.


ks

 

[KEVINS]

Update:
The motor is fine after the massive overboost I experienced last time so I decided that I NEEDED better boost control. I read where KevinB made a comment about how well he liked his BC-HPBC boost controller so I decided to try one:
http://www.turboxsparts.com/84.html

The instructions suck, IMO, and I had to PM KevinB about how to adjust it but after a couple quick adjustments the boost is now set at 29psi and rock steady and far more predictable than my Grainger Valve!

Yea, this little unit cost a bit more but when I'm pushing this much boost I wanted to make sure I had something that was proven and that would be more reliable than what I had.

If you're wanting better boost control then I definitely recommend this unit

Thanks for all your help!
Regards
Kevin Slaby​