New Suspension install not going well

[Azrial89]

I am currently in the process of putting in my new QA1 Coil-over front suspension in and I have hit a snag. I followed all the install instructions along with bumping them against my repair manual but the ball joints will not come free. I am using a ball joint separator tool and have disconnected the sway bar mount and pulled the ball joint nuts. So reading the manual all I need now is to slide the ball joint separator in between said ball joint and control arm correct?? If I am missing something, your help would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

The ball joint separator tool goes between the top of the ball joint and the bottom of the spindle (for lower joint). Then get the biggest hammer you have and whack the end of the tool to drive the wedge between the ball joint and the spindle. Usually takes a few good hits before the ball joint stud pops loose from the spindle. Note that this usually cuts the boot on the ball joint.

I leave the nut on the ball joint stud, at the top, to prevent the lower arm from springing free. Doing that along with not supporting the lower arm places additional pressure to help separate the stud from the spindle. I also like to leave a floor jack or some large blocks of wood under the arm but a couple of inches away. Can never be too safe, don't want the lower arm flying downward if the ball joint stud breaks.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Chuck Leeper]

See the flats on the spindle, next to the ball joint studs??
Loosen the nuts, DO NOT remove, hit the flat w/ a 2# hammer a couple serious hits. The deformation, due to the force, will allow the b/j stud taper to release.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

I had the same issue at first. Seemed like the ball joint seperator was all the way in there, but I put it back in and gave it a few more whacks with the hammer and there was more room to go. Once it did, thing popped right out.

 

[charlief1]

See the flats on the spindle, next to the ball joint studs??
Loosen the nuts, DO NOT remove, hit the flat w/ a 2# hammer a couple serious hits. The deformation, due to the force, will allow the b/j stud taper to release.

Chuck's right here. The nuts need to stay on to keep the spring from poping loose. I have a 3 lb hand sledge that I use myself and it breaks the joints loose pretty easy. The pickle fork is the other way to do it and you still need a fairly heavy hammer to do it.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Agree about the nuts. Glad I left them on, moved enough with them on there!!

 

[pacecarta]

Chuck's right here. The nuts need to stay on to keep the spring from poping loose.

The pickle fork is the other way to do it and you still need a fairly heavy hammer to do it.

yes on the nut staying there ... no on the pickle fork unless you plan to replace that balljoint



weight off the lower control arm (support at frame and leave nut on a few threads ) , turn the spindle and whack the back of spindle between the nut and the LCA with a BFH (3lb sledge) and it should break loose
other wise use a GM style ball joint tool combined with a bfh works great ...

like this one ...
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ball-Joint-Spreader-Tool,47367.html

 

[Azrial89]

Well it was a success to all your guys input, I appreciate it. My ball joints were in some serious need of replacement... Torn boots and not so very clean grease. Thanks for the help. Now my suspension install can resume

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Good to hear. What method did you end up using? BTW: just posted in your other thread.