New York City inspection tips and tricks

xtremexnyc

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
I will be getting my car inspected in about a month. I'm just looking for some tips and tricks to help the car pass NYC inspection.

My set up
TE-44
ESP FM
Tinman Cold Air Kit
adj fuel reg
009 inj. with Jim Testa and Reds Chips. Jim Testa chip in the car now.
Walboro 340 Hotwired
Powerplate
THDP
Test Pipe
ATR single shot
Rebuilt heads
New valve springs
206.206 cam

I will be changing the plugs Acr43ts gapped to 35, wires, fuel filter, test the egr, oil change. Do you think I will need to replace my 02? It is about 1yr old never used any race gas or fouled it. My only problem is my test pipe is welded to the THDP. I do have random tech cat but looks like I will have to hack the THDP to install it. My fuel pressure is currently at 42 with the vac line off. BLM is at about 110 to 115, AF is at 5, 02 sensor does not seem to look lazy. Do you think I would have a chance passing with the test pipe? Also which chip would run cleaner for emissions. This is what information I can think of so far but if you need any more please post. Is there any gas additive that I can use to help out ex. Guranteed to pass, Dry gas etc etc. NYC guys please chime in also. Any tuning help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all.
 
I had a chance to review the NY state emissions program and it appears that their dyno test is I/M240. If you live in an area that requires this type of enhanced testing, there is little chance that you'll pass w/out a cat. Stranger things have happened, but I seriously doubt it. During the heavy load accelerations from 0-30 and 0-58, you're going to need the cat and EGR system to bring the NOx down, not to mention the HC and CO created.
 
Thank you for your advice. Looks like I will have to some how put the cat back on for the test. Also I will make sure the EGR is up to par. How do you go about testing the EGR again? Any advice for tuning? I could use all the tips I can get. As for fuel pressure etc etc. Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
Testing of EGR system:

Vehicle must be warmed and in closed loop. While engine idles, manually lift EGR pintle (or remove filter cap and EGR filter from EGr solenoid and place finger over filter port) and engine should stumble or die. If you have to replace the EGR valve, I recommend only factory units (no aftermarkets). Replaceing with aftermarket EGR on I/M240 may cause HC and CO problems. Have some one power brake your engine (in drive) while you rest your finger underneath the EGR valve. You should feel the EGR valve raise. If not, check the vacuum source. If you have a scan tool, it should record the percentage of EGR movement while driving down the road.

Regarding fuel pressure. I suspect that the chip manufacturer recommends a specific pressure range. I would set it to the lower half of the range. During the test, make sure the operator drives the trace smoothly, as sudden jerks and braking affect load (esp the braking part). You may not have control of this. If you have an adjustable wastegate rod, I would set the boost low instead of on kill.

Especially make sure your engine is tuned properly.
Good luck
 
Thanks again for time and help. I will check everything out and see if they are up to par.
 
Yo extreme , the test pipe isnt going to fly at a legit shop , your going to fail the visual , no visable cat even if you pass , you fail . Plus i doubt your going to pass anyway W/O the cat . When my car was stock it never passed with the test pipe so they flaked it . I did pass one year legit by putting the cat on for the test . Make something up so you can take it on and off . Unless you know someone shops arent risking it like the ole days .
 
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